C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Distributor Drive Gear Misaligned

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Old 05-20-2016, 04:47 PM
  #21  
antfarmer2
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Originally Posted by C4ProjectCar
These gears are one-piece, so swapping the shafts isn't an option, but I just got off the phone with Summit and they're replacing it for free. Gotta love Summit.
Good deal
Old 05-20-2016, 04:51 PM
  #22  
BOOT77
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Sry if I repeat anything I just skimmed most those reply's.

1st is this a gm dist with a .491 shaft? Some places like MSD use .500

On the new gear, the toothed part looks a bit thicker(idk if that really matters for this) but pics can be kinda deceiving. You could turn the new gear 90deg then drill a new hole at the proper height. Actually I'd maybe try 45deg so incase you mess up you have another try.

Or you could mod the housing. The easy way would be to remove any shims or spacers that are between the gear and housing. The next solution I can think of would be the have the housing gear end surfaced and material removed from their. You will loose a slight bit of oil pump shaft engagement and maybe even have to not use a gasket or surface the intake or the housing end that sits on the intake.

But all that seems like more trouble than buying another gear, I'd just buy the gm unit I think it was about the same price. Call summit you can prob return it still, they have a 90 day they cover shipping and after it's on you or maybe restocking fee.

GL!

edit: Just saw you posted while I was typing, Summit is cool most of the time.

Last edited by BOOT77; 05-20-2016 at 04:52 PM.
Old 05-20-2016, 07:01 PM
  #23  
383vett
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Originally Posted by C4ProjectCar
These gears are one-piece, so swapping the shafts isn't an option, but I just got off the phone with Summit and they're replacing it for free. Gotta love Summit.
The GM 84 has a gear that has a rollpin holding it onto the shaft. Look carefully. There should be a small rollpin between the teeth. An old racer's trick and one that I have used is if the distributor housing has a limited area to rotate and moving the gear one tooth over causes the distributor to contact, the gear can be flipped over and the result will be 1/2 gear movement. I have had to do this a few times.

Last edited by 383vett; 05-20-2016 at 07:03 PM.
Old 05-21-2016, 06:48 AM
  #24  
PatternDayTrader
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Originally Posted by C4ProjectCar
Well this blew up overnight. Thanks for all the replies guys.

Motox,
I'm not blaming Lunati. Mistakes happen, and it seems like errors like this don't slip through often so I'm not surprised the Lunati guy had never seen this before.
I understood your not really blaming Lunati. Even if you were it wouldnt matter, since they will just say it was your fault.
Old 05-21-2016, 09:03 AM
  #25  
Churchkey
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There is a load on the distributor gear caused by driving the oil pump that keeps the dist gear pinned to the cam gear. A worn dist gear is not the cause of your fluctuating timing issue.

Carbon tracks in the cap, loose coil mounting/ground, poor ignition wires.

Worse case = a loose timing chain.

Check the cap etc first.

No mechanical advance in the distributor it is all electronic. Disconnect the EST wire & set the timing @ 1000 maybe 1200 rpm. If it is steady @ that engine speed the timing chain may be stretched.

We are here to help suggest asking about any issues you may encounter before diving in & getting a tit caught in the wringer.

There are no dumb ??'s.

Good luck.

BTW if the cam you are using has a lumpy idle base timing will be hard to set, for 100% accuracy it will need to be set using the total timing method = another topic.

Last edited by Churchkey; 05-21-2016 at 09:27 AM. Reason: add text
Old 05-21-2016, 09:48 AM
  #26  
ghoastrider1
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Glad it worked out. Been doing biz with Summit for years and yet to have a complaint concerning their service or feedback.
Old 05-21-2016, 04:12 PM
  #27  
C4ProjectCar
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Originally Posted by Churchkey
There is a load on the distributor gear caused by driving the oil pump that keeps the dist gear pinned to the cam gear. A worn dist gear is not the cause of your fluctuating timing issue.

Carbon tracks in the cap, loose coil mounting/ground, poor ignition wires.

Worse case = a loose timing chain.

Check the cap etc first.

No mechanical advance in the distributor it is all electronic. Disconnect the EST wire & set the timing @ 1000 maybe 1200 rpm. If it is steady @ that engine speed the timing chain may be stretched.

We are here to help suggest asking about any issues you may encounter before diving in & getting a tit caught in the wringer.

There are no dumb ??'s.

Good luck.

BTW if the cam you are using has a lumpy idle base timing will be hard to set, for 100% accuracy it will need to be set using the total timing method = another topic.
The issue is that my old distributor gear is worn unevenly, which I believe would make the timing fluctuate, right?

But it's been about 5 months since the last time I was home and able to work on it so I'll have to get it back together and get a timing light on it to refresh my memory of what exactly is happening, and then I'll check the stuff you suggested. Thanks!

Last edited by C4ProjectCar; 05-21-2016 at 04:12 PM.
Old 05-26-2016, 08:34 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by WVZR-1
I've an 1103879 distributor here and I ain't gonna knock the gear off but with a less than what I consider spectacular Chinese vernier I get something .196 +/- very little gear edge to pin center.
I got my new gear and it has the same problem. Whereas my original gear is right around .190" from the bottom face of the gear teeth to the roll pin center, the new Lunati gear is about .260."

So maybe Lunati gears are just weird? None of this makes sense to me. While it kills me to not figure out what's going on here, I'm thinking I'll just order a Delco gear and hope that it is normal.

You guys have any thoughts? Measurements of other distributor gears would be welcome.
Old 05-26-2016, 09:00 PM
  #29  
BOOT77
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Are you 100% sure it is the oem dist?

edit: Not that the new one isn't bad as well. I once got three parts from Jegs that were all bad and on the 3rd they pulled their entire stock to check and found everyone defective.

Last edited by BOOT77; 05-26-2016 at 09:02 PM.
Old 05-26-2016, 09:14 PM
  #30  
C4ProjectCar
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Originally Posted by BOOT77
Are you 100% sure it is the oem dist?

edit: Not that the new one isn't bad as well. I once got three parts from Jegs that were all bad and on the 3rd they pulled their entire stock to check and found everyone defective.
I'm 99% sure. The only identifying marking on it I can find is the number 1103680, which a quick Google search indicates is a 1990 Corvette distributor.

Wow, that's crazy. Maybe tomorrow I'll get a Lunati tech on the phone and see if they can pull up the proper specs of the gear I ordered.
Old 05-29-2016, 12:11 AM
  #31  
C4ProjectCar
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Ended up just going with a Delco melonized gear. Shimmed it to about .023" endplay, and shimmed the distributor housing to properly align the gear using white lithium grease to see where the cam gear touched it. I haven't driven it yet due to other problems I'm working on, but I was able to set the base timing and it seems to run well.
Old 05-29-2016, 02:21 AM
  #32  
Cliff Harris
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Originally Posted by C4ProjectCar
Ended up just going with a Delco melonized gear. Shimmed it to about .023" endplay
You don't need to do that. When the engine is running the cam gear will push the distributor gear up against the bottom of the distributor housing.
Old 05-29-2016, 03:07 AM
  #33  
C4ProjectCar
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I wondered about that but I wasn't sure if that would happen at low RPMs, and I'd read about shimming endplay from so many sources. I figured I might as well shim it while I had the distributor out. It didn't cost much for the shim kit and I didn't want to have any doubt.
Old 05-29-2016, 09:34 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by C4ProjectCar
I wondered about that but I wasn't sure if that would happen at low RPMs, and I'd read about shimming endplay from so many sources. I figured I might as well shim it while I had the distributor out. It didn't cost much for the shim kit and I didn't want to have any doubt.
Guys that race usually shim to eliminate endplay which can cause "spark scatter", but like Cliff mentioned it's not really needed for a street car...But it doesn't hurt anything to shim the excess play out either...More important is to make sure the dizzy isn't "bottomed out" and that you have some free play...WW
Old 05-29-2016, 02:33 PM
  #35  
C4ProjectCar
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Originally Posted by WW7
More important is to make sure the dizzy isn't "bottomed out" and that you have some free play...WW
I did do that as well by installing the distributor without the gasket or shim and ensuring it bottomed out and that there was still play in the shaft.

Is it potentially a concern to have the distributor too high up so it does not fully engage the oil pump drive shaft?



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