Loading a C4 on an Open Trailer single handed
#1
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Loading a C4 on an Open Trailer single handed
Any tips? I'm always having to grab someone to guide me on
but, theres not always someone around
Have real trouble seeing how the ramps line up with the wheels
but, theres not always someone around
Have real trouble seeing how the ramps line up with the wheels
Last edited by BrianCunningham; 05-23-2016 at 12:26 PM.
#2
Buy a cheap backup camera set it up for easy temp use. Or drive it up to the ramps and get out and look.
Last edited by antfarmer2; 05-23-2016 at 12:49 PM.
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BrianCunningham (05-24-2016)
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BrianCunningham (05-24-2016)
#4
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St. Jude Donor '05
^^^^
Winch w/hand held controller
Winch w/hand held controller
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BrianCunningham (05-24-2016)
#5
Team Owner
You should line the car up before you drive onto the ramps. That way, you will have a good idea about where the car is going to go. Once that is done, don't move the steering wheel.
One thing you could try is to get a mirror (something like the 18 wheelers use) mount it on a 4' tube (EMT conduit works) and attach it to the front corner of the trailer. Adjust the mirror so you can watch the LF wheel as the car moves forward. Put a stop block on the deck so the car is sitting in the right location for weight distribution and the tie-downs.
For the camera suggestion, I bought a wireless camera for hitching the trailer to my pickup. The camera has a magnetic base so you could place it on the trailer somewhere. If the trailer is aluminum, get a piece of steel sheet or flat bar and mount the bar with a C-clamp. The video screen part on my camera simply plugs into a 12v accessory socket but the cig lighter will work also.
Looking at the pic of your trailer, you could place the camera on the left side frame rail and point it down the rail so it would also show the deck where the LF tire would roll up the trailer. It may help to pint a line down the deck where you want the outside edge of the tire to be.
The camera is made by a company called "iBall" so you can do a search on that and find some vendors. I paid a little ofer $100 for mine, but the display is full-color and even works in the dark.
One thing you could try is to get a mirror (something like the 18 wheelers use) mount it on a 4' tube (EMT conduit works) and attach it to the front corner of the trailer. Adjust the mirror so you can watch the LF wheel as the car moves forward. Put a stop block on the deck so the car is sitting in the right location for weight distribution and the tie-downs.
For the camera suggestion, I bought a wireless camera for hitching the trailer to my pickup. The camera has a magnetic base so you could place it on the trailer somewhere. If the trailer is aluminum, get a piece of steel sheet or flat bar and mount the bar with a C-clamp. The video screen part on my camera simply plugs into a 12v accessory socket but the cig lighter will work also.
Looking at the pic of your trailer, you could place the camera on the left side frame rail and point it down the rail so it would also show the deck where the LF tire would roll up the trailer. It may help to pint a line down the deck where you want the outside edge of the tire to be.
The camera is made by a company called "iBall" so you can do a search on that and find some vendors. I paid a little ofer $100 for mine, but the display is full-color and even works in the dark.
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BrianCunningham (05-24-2016)
#6
I did it for years both in the daytime and at night. Pick a spot on your hood - I always used the crease going down the middle and something on your trailer when your lined up...memorize it and you would be good every time within a few inches.
I used to do it and not even think about it. Also on my trailer I could open the door and it would clear the wheel fender of the trailer. i used open the door to pick a spot front and back. You want the tow vehicle to lift when driving up on and then settle back down to a level place (very important for towing control).
I do the same with my enclosed trailer as I mention above and its always about 1 inch from the passengers side trailer well..which gives me a few more on the drives side to get in and out. In this case I had a side door put in but it is 1" too high and hits the door. I can easily get out if I have the window down though so no biggie. I would never likely open that door anyways - but I HAD to have the side door...lol.
I used to do it and not even think about it. Also on my trailer I could open the door and it would clear the wheel fender of the trailer. i used open the door to pick a spot front and back. You want the tow vehicle to lift when driving up on and then settle back down to a level place (very important for towing control).
I do the same with my enclosed trailer as I mention above and its always about 1 inch from the passengers side trailer well..which gives me a few more on the drives side to get in and out. In this case I had a side door put in but it is 1" too high and hits the door. I can easily get out if I have the window down though so no biggie. I would never likely open that door anyways - but I HAD to have the side door...lol.
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BrianCunningham (05-24-2016)
#7
You can watch your GoPro in real time (there is a 1-2 sec lag) from your phone. Set a GoPro at the front of the trailer and then guide yourself on slowly while watching your phone.
Last edited by ovrebo1; 05-23-2016 at 04:26 PM.
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BrianCunningham (05-24-2016)
#8
Max G’s
When I had an open trailer I would pull up to what I felt the tires were lined up with the ramps and where the car was in between the trailer fenders. I would get out and look straight down the car from back to front and make sure I was going to clear the trailer fenders. After that I would move the ramps a little if needed. After several time I could get it lined up right the first time👍
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BrianCunningham (05-24-2016)
#9
Team Owner
Pro Mechanic
I do mine like a Lambo owner backs a Countach. I roll down my driver's side window, open the the door part way, and sit my azz on the rocker rail...and drive it like that. Gives you a clear view of the left side of the car, and it's proximity to everything on the left.
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BrianCunningham (05-24-2016)
#10
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St. Jude Donor '05
You could always entertain us by putting a rear view camera on the trailer drop your truck in reverse & get a running start
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BrianCunningham (05-24-2016)
#11
Race Director
I do this ever week by myself. Drive up near the ramps, stick your left arm and head out the window and watch the front wheels go up the ramp onto the trailer followed by the rears. You really have to rubberneck. It helps that I am 6' with a long torso. I pick a spot on the trailer rail and stop when the rear tire is lined up with that spot for front-back positioning.
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BrianCunningham (05-24-2016)
#12
Racer
Cheap solution:
You can buy a pair of what amounts to extendable radio antennas with a big yellow ball on one end and a magnet on the other, made to assist trailer hitching. Put one on each side of the trailer, drive car between them like loading a boat from the water.
You can buy a pair of what amounts to extendable radio antennas with a big yellow ball on one end and a magnet on the other, made to assist trailer hitching. Put one on each side of the trailer, drive car between them like loading a boat from the water.
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BrianCunningham (05-24-2016)
#13
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When I first got my trailer, I measured the distance between the fenders, and then compared it to the width of the Corvette. It seemed to leave me 6-8 inches on each side of the car, as long as I drove it straight onto the trailer (pretty easy to do). Been doing it that way for years, and no problems. Except for once.
I was at Mid-Ohio and loading the car up for the trip home. My buddy, who drove his Corvette there, jumped in front of the trailer to "guide me on". He kept waving me forward, and forward (and I was foolish enough at the time to listen to someone who had never trailered a car in his life), and forward again, until the Pace Car spoiler bottom lip on my car smashed into the trailer jack, which was folded down/back when not in use. Since then I don't take anyone's help when driving the car up on the trailer.
I was at Mid-Ohio and loading the car up for the trip home. My buddy, who drove his Corvette there, jumped in front of the trailer to "guide me on". He kept waving me forward, and forward (and I was foolish enough at the time to listen to someone who had never trailered a car in his life), and forward again, until the Pace Car spoiler bottom lip on my car smashed into the trailer jack, which was folded down/back when not in use. Since then I don't take anyone's help when driving the car up on the trailer.
#14
I do recommend having a winch to load the car onto the trailer - as eventually you are going to experience a situation where driving it up onto the trailer at the end of the day will not be an option. (As a bare minimum - at least make sure you have a decent come along with you.)
That being said - here's my $0.02... Find the center of the trailer - mark center with a piece of tape - both front and back. Do the same with the center of the bed in the tow vehicle - mark the tailgate and rear window center with tape as well.
Next, find center of Vette - then measure the distance from the center of the driver seat to the center of the Vette. Let's call that distance "X" inches. Now - put a piece of tape "X" Inches to the left of the rear window centerline on the rear window of the pickup. Do the same with the tailgate. Do the same with the front of the trailer. You can now remove the tape on the centerlines. (You can use the little reflectors with the self stick adhesive if you prefer)
Now - as you get ready to pull onto the trailer- as you sit in the drivers seat - just line those pieces of tape (the trailer has to be straight behind the tow vehicle for this to work), and pull straight forward. I'd recommend doing it with a guide helping out the first time - but it should work well....
That being said - here's my $0.02... Find the center of the trailer - mark center with a piece of tape - both front and back. Do the same with the center of the bed in the tow vehicle - mark the tailgate and rear window center with tape as well.
Next, find center of Vette - then measure the distance from the center of the driver seat to the center of the Vette. Let's call that distance "X" inches. Now - put a piece of tape "X" Inches to the left of the rear window centerline on the rear window of the pickup. Do the same with the tailgate. Do the same with the front of the trailer. You can now remove the tape on the centerlines. (You can use the little reflectors with the self stick adhesive if you prefer)
Now - as you get ready to pull onto the trailer- as you sit in the drivers seat - just line those pieces of tape (the trailer has to be straight behind the tow vehicle for this to work), and pull straight forward. I'd recommend doing it with a guide helping out the first time - but it should work well....
#15
Burning Brakes
Never thought about it being an issue. I do it all the time.
Lean out the door, line up the driver side tire and the ramp and drive straight on the trailer.
Its not hard.
Lean out the door, line up the driver side tire and the ramp and drive straight on the trailer.
Its not hard.
#16
Race Director
Again, that's what I do. I have to be really precise with my 16Z06. The Featherlite width is 79." The rear with of the Z with Hoosiers is 27 3/4." That gives me 5/8" on each side for clearance.