C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

so much for drag racing tomorrow

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Old 06-17-2016, 11:59 AM
  #21  
qwiketz
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Originally Posted by BrianCunningham
Another mystery solved:
Took another look
Why is there aluminum powder on my FRAME RAIL
Yup, I'm twisting the engine enough to make the pulley GRIND THE FRAME!
The clearance is very tight but you're the first person that I know of to actually hit it. Maybe slightly less od on the pulley?
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Old 06-17-2016, 12:09 PM
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St. Jude Donor '05

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What kind of motor mounts are you using?
Is there room for a limiter strap/turnbuckle type deal to limit movement?
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Old 06-17-2016, 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by qwiketz
The clearance is very tight but you're the first person that I know of to actually hit it. Maybe slightly less od on the pulley?
I think I'm the only one autocrossing this setup

Originally Posted by cuisinartvette
What kind of motor mounts are you using?
Is there room for a limiter strap/turnbuckle type deal to limit movement?
New stock mounts were installed with the new engine.

a strap/turnbuckle is exactly what I'm thinking

Either that or a bumpstop
Old 06-17-2016, 12:45 PM
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Still trying to figure out how to get the blower off

with the Vortech setup, looks like you take the blower off, then the bracket

with the modified setup, looks like you take off the bracket & blower together

Old 06-17-2016, 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by qwiketz
The clearance is very tight but you're the first person that I know of to actually hit it. Maybe slightly less od on the pulley?
Just talked with Greg@BlowerWorks

He can get me a smaller pulley

He also said to check the motor mounts

I killed the last set of motor mounts.
The shifter was hitting the counsil
Old 06-18-2016, 03:49 AM
  #26  
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the rubber engine mounts seem to move a bit,
i put fresh ones on mine, but they still allow the engine to twist enough to let the air intake elbow hit the hood when it torques up !

maybe look at poly engine mounts ?
Old 06-18-2016, 12:38 PM
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or possible a solid on DS at least dont know if it keeps engine same height. No way a stock mount wil hold up to that for long esp the garbage rubber thats being made these days
Old 06-18-2016, 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by cuisinartvette
or possible a solid on DS at least dont know if it keeps engine same height. No way a stock mount wil hold up to that for long esp the garbage rubber thats being made these days
There's a lot of shock on the whole driveline. Lot of tire, lots of power and a stockshift.
Old 06-18-2016, 03:12 PM
  #29  
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Almost have the blower & mount out

Originally Posted by BrianCunningham

I'm also seeing a lot of oil leakage at the front.
If I need to change the seals, looks like the engine has to come out, with the damper Vortech provided

Greg just sent me instructions on how to get a one-piece damper out w/o removing the engine
Old 06-18-2016, 03:33 PM
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Originally Posted by BrianCunningham
Almost have the blower & mount out




Greg just sent me instructions on how to get a one-piece damper out w/o removing the engine
You just have to loosen 1 side of the steering rack. I've never had the engine out of mine

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Old 06-19-2016, 06:25 PM
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I can't get a wrench on the 12 point bolt holding the bracket on.

This is a pic from the manual

On mine the blower pulley is still installed
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Old 06-21-2016, 01:58 PM
  #32  
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I finally got that stupid bolt out!


There's suppose to be a 12pt bolt so you can access it

But the second hand kit did not come with the hardware,
So my builder put a 6pt in instead

Finally got it off with a 9/16 socket on a 1/4in drive
Old 06-21-2016, 02:03 PM
  #33  
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There's a lot of shock on the whole driveline. Lot of tire, lots of power and a stockshift.
Yes it is just an option
Like poly mounts with a torque strap as hes probably making good torque
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Old 06-21-2016, 04:56 PM
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Pic of the damage with the bracket out.
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Old 06-21-2016, 05:49 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by cuisinartvette
Yes it is just an option
Like poly mounts with a torque strap as hes probably making good torque
Talked to my builder yesterday, really just to ask how he managed to put it together

I mentioned the torque strap

He said not to use a chain or a turnbuckle.
They might set off the knock sensor

But a strap should work
Old 06-22-2016, 11:19 AM
  #36  
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3/8-16 x 4.5” 12 point head bolt

fastenal has them for $7
but $54 to ship it overnight!

https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/0161200
Old 06-22-2016, 06:55 PM
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Rebuilt the pulley bracket with the new ones

You can see the size difference

This won't effect the drive ratio at all
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To so much for drag racing tomorrow

Old 06-23-2016, 11:33 AM
  #38  
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what a pain power comes with a pricetag though

On the strap it doesnt have to be taught/solid dont think it would trip a sensor as they are calibrated to only p/u certain frequencies. your tuner probably knows best doesnt hurt to have a fail safe though.

Ive busted every mount on BBC Ive had..now messing with a tow rig (454)that busted its mount and tossed a fan through the hood. bet there will be a strap just in case! In the meantime learning how to fiberglass this pos shroud back together

Last edited by cv67; 06-23-2016 at 11:34 AM.
Old 06-23-2016, 06:26 PM
  #39  
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Just about have it all back together

Just need to hook up the radiator

BTW putting the belt back on is WAY easier with the radiator hoses out of the way.

I'll have 30 hours into it by the time I'm finished.

If I had gone back to the $75/hr shop that installed it that would have been $2,250
Old 06-24-2016, 04:18 PM
  #40  
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Son of a ...

The new idler is hitting the blower.

Didn't see it till I got it all together.

Need to tear it all apart AGAIN


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