nick0187

Sometimes my 1986 vette will start right up and run great and other times it won't crank at all. I did notice that the security light never comes on at all from the time I open the door. The fuel pump does kick on, I've cleaned the key with rubbing alcohol and an eraser with no luck. Any ideas?

antfarmer2

Check your battery load test. Clean and inspect both ends of cables and cables and jump box behind the battery if yours has one.

nick0187

I had already cleaned all of the wires behind the battery. I tried to get the the main engine ground to clean it, but I don't know how the hell to do so, it's damn near impossible to get to. It's pretty nasty looking though

cmontel727

I would also clean the ignition switch area where it come in contact with the pellet on the key. I used a q-tip and alcohol, fixed my intermittent no crank issue.

Good luck!

nick0187

I tried that this morning with no luck. Not sure if the lack of the security means something.

antfarmer2

Check your fuses.

nick0187

All fuses are good, first thing I checked. Although I'm not sure what the 4 large fuses are on the right hand side

aklim

Hook up an idiot light to the starter. IF it doesn't work, you have other issues. If it is giving the solenoid the signal, you could have a starter that is going out the door. Better yet, take the starter out and have it checked out.

WVZR-1

Is this car an A4 or a M4+ transmission? There's considerable to check for "intermittent" NO CRANK. Pulling the starter to check might be the last!

If you do pull the starter and it were still the OE/GM I'd repair what you've got vs buying an "off the shelf" reman.

aklim

Ordinarily, I'd agree with you on that but the newest C4 is 20 years old and the starter sits in a nasty environment so it wouldn't hurt to check in out after this long. And yes, rebuild it and not get some reman unit.

nick0187

It's the automatic trans

antfarmer2

Take a close look at the wires behind the battery. Mine has fuseable links that are orange. Not sure on yours but worth a look. Also look at the battery cable some have had it wear by the steering column.

WVZR-1

If you have the FSM you follow the diagnostics for a "no crank" - the FSM diagnostics for the earlier years is very straight forward.

In your case you've got only the starter enable relay, the PRNDL switch and the possible ignition mechanical adjustment. The suggested "idiot light" if you've the materials, skill and time is certainly a good thought.

I still believe that until those are eliminated you don't go to the aggravation of removing the starter.

The "sometimes"?

aklim

My thought is that if the solenoid is being fired, the starter is to blame.

With my TPIS headers and without having a hoist, it is difficult to replace the starter but is it that bad in general? IDK

nick0187

There is no clock from any solenoid, it's just quiet when I turn the key. And I will check the wires again in case I missed something. I was going to replace the starter enable relay but nobody seems to have a replacement around here. I don't have a fsm but I'll see about getting one

aklim

Depending on where the solenoid is, you might not hear the clicking. There is a wire to the solenoid. Tap it and see if it gets power. If it doesn't go backwards. If it does, the starter might be the issue. You have to start somewhere. Might as well be the easiest point. Or we can go from the key all the way to the starter if you wish.

nick0187

Well on a hunch I did the starter enable relay bypass by cutting the two wires and booking them together and presto! It worked, at least for now..lol.

aklim

I would not cut wires on the car. It is there for a reason. Unless you are absolutely sure, you should not cut

BrianCunningham

rear main seal leak?

mine did that when the starter got soaked