8valve

I have owned my 1995 for 3 years of flawless use. She would start instantly, then the water pump leak, and now she wont start. I have a new water pump on the bench, but want to know the engine will start before I install the pump and coolant. I only want to start and shut her right down, to running without coolant.

The water pump on my 1995 started to leak around one of the mounting bolts. Turns out there was no sealant on the bolt and it was spraying coolant. The coolant hit the Opti, Coil and ICM and all connecting plugs.

I was wishing for a better day, but not yet. This morning I sprayed electronic contact cleaner/degreaser on all the connections on the Opti, Ignition Coil (which was soaked) and ICM (which was wet). Everything was dried with a hair drier, and di-electric grease added on all connections. The MAF, IAT and Engine coolant temp (at water pump) were not hooked up. Its time to see if she starts. The engine cranks wonderful but no start or even popping, the engine just wont start.

I checked the 10 amp coil fuse, its good. I pulled the codes. Only code is C12, which the FSM says = no stored codes ???? Strange with this no start problem.

Last night I did a lot of reading in the FSM and also here on the Tech forum.
It appears that when cranking, If I see RPM's on the Tach, the Opti is working ???

It also was mentioned to put a pressure gauge on the fuel rail and bring her up to pressure, then pull the fuel pump fuse and crank the engine. If the fuel pressure goes down quickly, it was mentioned that the injectors are working and thus the Opti is working ??

Before I head out on a 50 mile round trip to advance auto to test the Coil and ICM........does anyone have and ideas what I should try next to get the engine once again running.

Thank You
8Valve

BBNJKen

Before installing that new water pump, I recommend drilling (1/4") and tapping (1/16" NPT) the pumps weep hole, and installing a hose barb, then when installed, route the rubber hose away from the Opti.

I didn't notice how many miles on your car, but the OPTI should be vented on 95 & 96 LTx, meaning air is sucked into the unit from a small hose connected to air intake duct, and then out to a connection on the manifold. I've seen pix of OPTI's opened up and had lots of corrosion. Hopefully, that's not the case here.

csthews

When you reseated the connections on the optispark, did you hear 2 distinct clicks? Also, you didn't put the dielectric grease on the connections did you?

8valve

To answer Posts 2 & 3;

The opti in the car is 3 years old. I have owned the car for 3 years and the PO had a new opti put in about a month before I bought the car. Its run beautiful over those 3 years.
When I picked up the new water pump today, I also got the fitting for the weep hole mod, but thanks for reminding me.

I felt the connectors snap in place very well. My old ears are shot and sure did not hear any snaps ha ha. I put the grease on the Coil spades and the ICM. On the deep plug on the opti, just around the upper outside of the connector. I have used a lot of dielectric grease in my life, its not loaded on heavy.

Thanks for the replies.

8Valve

Tom400CFI

I didn't see where you checked for spark. This would be step one, in this case. You got the opti wet, now it won't start, check for spark.

2. You won't get any codes if the opti isn't generating a signal, b/c no signal=no crank; the ECM has "no idea" that the engine is rotating.

3. You likely (Almost certainly) got the optical sensor wet. If you tested for spark and have none, remove the opti/distributor assy, then remove the optical sensor and wheel from the unit. Spray in between the sensor's groove (where the wheel runs through the sensor), with some brake cleaner, then, before it dries, slip a Kleenex through there to dry/clean the optical sensor face inside that groove. Reassemble the sensor and wheel into the distributor housing, plug harness in, turn ignition on, spin the distributor drive shaft by hand while testing for spark from your coil wire. If you have spark now, reassemble distributor onto engine, spark plug wires, start engine.

8valve

Tom;
Thanks for your post. I will check for spark tomorrow. I guess its best to first check for spark with a plug wire at a plug. If no, then move to the coil output and check with a spark plug there. If no, then pull the opti ?

I will need to find a long plug wire to go from the coil to somewhere that I can see it when cranking the engine. I live alone, remote in the Mts with help hard to find Smile.

Is there no test on the opti cable that plugs into the opti to be able to determine the opti is really the fault, without going thru all the work to remove the HB etc ?

Thank You
8Valve

Tom400CFI

That sounds like a good plan.

There are tests. Do you have a scan tool, or access to one? Plug it in, put it in data stream, and watch RPM while cranking. If you have no RPM signal...Opti isn't doing squat. Do a search for '93Ruby'. He posted a fantastic "how to" thread with videos showing how he tests the opti.

In this case however, you got the thing wet...now it won't start. If you test and have no spark...it's incredibly likely why.

Maybe you could hold a wire near ground with vice grips clamped (lightly) on the boot to hold it while you crank and watch through the windshield. A spark should be able to jump a good 1/2" or more...so easily visible.

antfarmer2

Put a fan on it over nite and see if it will fire.

8valve

Tom, no scan tool.
Did you note the part of my post where I mentioned that I had a fuel pressure gauge on the rail, turned on the key, rail up to pressure, pulled the fuse and cranked the engine. Fuel pressure went down fast. DOes that help the diagnosis ?

Last question; I will do all the spark testing tomorrow, including having the ICM tested. I will test the coil on my bench. If all is good, then its the opti. Since the opti is vented, what about spraying iso alcohol in a vent tube, letting it bind with any moisture, then with DRY
air blow thru the vent tube to evaporate the alcohol. Any Thoughts ?

8Valve

Tom400CFI

I don't know. That seems indicative that the injectors were pulsing, but I wouldn't even care about that test, if I didn't have any spark. I'd say that test produced "evidence"...but nothing I'd consider to be a concrete diagnosis.

I don't think alcohol will work, but if you need to pull the opti anyway, I guess it couldn't hurt.

desertmike1

I would hook up a nice long vacuum hose to the Opti's vent line and connected the other end to a vacuum source (second car) fire up the second vehicle and let it run for a while, this will draw fresh dry air through your Opti and possibly dry it out.. sounds crazy, but it might just work

8valve

Do to my work, nothing got done today. I will be on the road Thur and Fri. Saturday I will be back on the Vette. I will post once I have something of value to share.....hope its good news

8Valve

8valve

Todays update;
I was on the road today for only a short time instead of all day. I took full advantage to work on the Vette. My plan was to start doing all the tests as recommended and if all proved to be Opti, pull the harmonic balancer and opti.

Before starting I got on my knees in the shop and asked Jesus to help me find the problem and get this thing running quickly and cheaply. Before starting the recommended tests. I felt compelled to do a final check on the distributer plug that sits so deep in the opti. It originally had coolant in the plug hole. I wanted to be sure it was really dry. Using a high intensity light I looked and saw what I had not seen before. One of the male pins down in the hole was bent over. Looking head on at the opti, lets call the first pin on the left (drivers) side as #1. It was pin 2 that was bent over , the FSM shows it to he High Resolution Serial.

With my bright light, reading glasses, tweezers, sharp screw driver, I asked Jesus to help me bend it back upright and straight without snapping it off. That job worked well, pin ended up nice and straight and in line. The plug went right in and locked.

I decided to try once more cranking the engine. I turned the key and heard this NOISE, a BEAUTIFUL LOUD NOISE. The engine fired right up, no cranking, started like it was a hot summer day. I shut her right down. Hit the key again, instant start, shut her right down. Final test, hit the key, instant start, looked at the tach, smooth idle, shut her down.

The coolant had shorted something out and must have dried. Then stupid me, somehow bent the distributor pin when I was checking for water a few days ago. I am all set for saturday to put the water pump on and fill with coolant. I plan to start her and let her run for a long period in my shop to have the help of a hot engine to further dry out the opti or coil, which ever caused the problem. I gave Jesus a real thank you for directing me to once again check the distributor plug for water and then found the bend pin.

My most sincere thanks to all who came to my aid on the forum !!!!! Sure make me want to go and give my C3 a big hug with the HEI high and dry on top. And maybe kiss my classic trucks that I put Cummins diesels in.

Once again, my sincere thanks to all here that responded to my call for help.

8Valve

desertmike1

you gotta luv a happy ending..

csthews

Awesome....