Tom400CFI

But ya haven't done it...others have. So how can you "keep it real" when you don't have meaningful advice to give?? I HAVE gotten over 300hp from a CFI car for less than $2000, (and I started from 170hp since my car was a 305 Trans Am) so not only do know for a fact that it CAN be done....I have done it. Not everyone would agree with the way that I did mine, that is for sure, but it more than met my criteria and it was CHEAP.

I believe that solutions have already been offered above.
*Ported to hell intake (or a replacement)
*full exhaust from heads to tail pipes
*some cam
*Feed it what it wants
...and he should be damn close to his goal How much is all that? $1k for exhaust? $200 for a cam & parts? $500 for an intake? You've still got $300 left in the budget for fuel pump, injectors and ancillary items...

You make a good point about cost creep that happens with most any project...you are certainly right about that. But posting that it's a "waste of time" is pretty misguided -especially when you've never even tried to do it. If I "sound" irritated, it's b/c I am, a bit; at one point, *I* was the OP and I was looking for advice about my CFI car...people told me the same stuff you just said. How was it helpful? It wasn't. What it did was make me second guess, doubt and not do it. Finally, I felt the people who'd given me that advice were FOS and I moved forward w/mods....and had fantastic results. So the people who hadn't tried it/done it, who told me it was a "waste of time"...they weren't helping. They gave me bad advice and then I wasted MY time, not modding my car.

.

Tom400CFI

Hard to decipher the point of this post...but CFI was used for 3 years; '82, '83 and '84. Only two of those years were used on the 'Vette, simply b/c there wasn't an '83 'Vette. There is only one aftermarket intake that is a direct bolt-on and there are at least two other aftermarket intakes that work with a custom top lid. Although there is only the one bolt-on replacement, it is about all anyone would need...and it's reasonably priced at about 1/2 what you'd pay for a TPI replacement manifold.

Gibbles

I decided to keep mine a CFI due to the 84 hood and the fact that the parts for a crossfire injection are pretty easy to find (ebay) and it's pretty cheap.

For instance the 90lb fuel injectors I have are just a standard part for a late 80's 454 big block truck.

And I'm really enjoying the new computer, it's a bit of a learning curve but I really like being able to edit everything.

Currently I can get over 30mpg on the freeway if I'm really easy, and I can watch my fuel gauge go down if I'm having a lot of fun...

Hot Rod Roy

Useless BS!! Let's just say that in 10 years, V8's will be antiquated! The CrossFire is is so rare and distintive it's cool again! Flathead Ford's have never lost their "cool"!

That statement tells me that you don't have a clue what you're talking about! (I've chosen nice words.) FYI: The CFI has two throttle body fuel injectors, positioned on the intake manifold so that the left injector feeds the right cylinders, and the right injector feeds the left cylinders. Get it? Some will remember the Chrysler Hemi Cross-Ram monster motors!



I'm surprised no one has suggested the first and very effective improvement that is super cheap: Set the initial ignition timing advance to 8* btdc, rather than the recommended 6*!

SELLC

You know what they say, opinions are like a$$ holes... Everyone has one. In 10 years the v8 will not be antiquated, but even by then I won't be interested in no stinking Ford.


Oh I got it alright! You bring that Crossfire Corvette right on over and I'll show you how antiquated it is! I too have been choosing nice words to explain that even GM didn't run with the crossfire for very long! And FYI, Two throttle bodies is basically "twin" throttle bodies, so maybe you don't "get it". Of no consequence to me, I'm not the one with a crossfire engine.

Buccaneer

NICE! Any dyno data? Just curious what you are getting. Thanks for your support as well.

Gibbles

No dyno yet, i do plan on doing one once i have everything ironed out.

Rough estimate is nearing 300hp, but my tune via ebl flash needs a bit more work.
I also have been having issues with the ve learns due to my long tube headers, so i have a heated O2 sensor waiting to be put in once i complete the c5 brake conversion (hopefully this weekend)

I expect right around 350 once i have it running perfect.

Gibbles

I will also say that after all of my changes i ran ok on the stock computer with the hypertech module...
I had a pretty noticeable lean out right in the 2500-3k rpm area, but once out the car took off like a rocket, it was amazing : )

I ended up trying the large injectors to see if i could smooth it out, it worked pretty well however it was to rich elsewhere.

The new computer fixed the weird running issues.

If you were to just replace the intake and tune the car including adding a bit more base timing you might be in the 230hp range, biggest notice would be the ability to rev a tad higher.

From there slightly stiffer valve springs and maybe get a set of 1.6 ratio roller rockers to open the valves just a tad more would help get a bit more revs.

Also the timing chain... GM used a plastic toothed sprocket i assume to keep it quiet, that worked well enough, but over time that plastic has been known to break down and chip off.
It will plug the oil pickup screen if it goes...
My car was fine at 110k, but it was replaced with the camshaft using a double roller.

Tom400CFI

I didn't know that you were still in the business, but I'm glad to hear that you are.



I agree, but feel that number could be on the conservative side. I got to about that point with a stock, non ported intake with timing, fuel changes, electric fan and exhaust, on a 305 CFI (a 16 second car, stock). No dyno, but ran 14.5/95 which takes about 220-230hp to do in a 3300 lb car. Also Jim, (CFI-EFI) did ~220 RWHP on a ported intake, fuel and timing changes and dual exhaust. He shifted at the drag track at 6000 RPM. Stock valve train.

I feel these cars are incredibly responsive to just a few basic changes, which makes the first few things you do, very rewarding.

Gibbles

Just noticed your the owner of DCS, happen to have time for a TB bore service (maybe this winter)?
I would be willing to drive down to AZ if it's helpful at all (I'm in UT).

I would have also given my left *** for the ham board.

Guro305

http://www.superchevy.com/features/0...hevy-corvette/

Gibbles

Very true, the more I did the better the car got, I started with little things at first, then I found how much fun the canyons are in northern Utah, that then fueled the begin of my quest for more power.

I also started off with the idea that I was going to limit how high on HP I was going to strive for... that was until I had an issue with an aftermarket TV cable, I now have a bullet proof 700r4 with complete 4l65e hard parts...

Now I'm thinking about rebuilding the engine this winter or next winter as a 383 and going a bit more wild on the camshaft...

Tom400CFI

No Sht! We should go for a rip some time. East Canyon to Morgan.

Gibbles

I'm game

I love that road, I have family in Morgan that directed me to it, I was delighted with the banked turns and a nice view.

I also found a few other very nice canyon roads out by pineview.

First road going from pineview over to east canyon got me thinking about brakes, then going north there is a nice road that goes up and over the mountain, then dumps out in north Ogden.

then there is the road that goes up to wolf mountain, dead ends at a nice view, but it's a fun drive.

I'm still looking for more fun drives.

Tom400CFI

You've got a few of the good'ns. Here are a couple more:
*Big and Little Cottonwood canyons -when they're not crowded. That typically means shoulder seasons

*Wolf creek pass (east of Francis)

*The Colony in Park City (if you can make a good case for them to let you in)

*The Guard Road/Guardsman pass

*Trappers Loop to Rt 39 over to Woodruff

*Alpine Loop

*Nebo Loop

Buccaneer

We do have HAM boards on hand, do you need one? PM me.

Also, if you have the low speed and mid range VE table pretty good... STOP using learn mode. It's time to get it on a dyno and actually iron out the rest. The reason you should stop using learn mode is, in learn mode the ECM when data logging is used will learn the up side and down side of acceleration and the data will always either want to add or pull fuel in each cell...this is learn mode. You would think that is OK, right? Right to a point, but wrong. If you look at the graph in TunerPro you will see more than likely a lot of jagged spikes in the table at all the rpm and map settings. This is due to "learn" mode. Your motor will follow those spikes, you may or may not notice it when running, but it does follow them as the ECM commands each VE cell. Those spikes rob you of power, you will need to smooth out those spikes and the dyno is a perfect place to do that in a controlled environment, vs. on the street while driving, much too hard and a hazard IMO. Once you get the VE table down, work on the SA table for power settings. Your WOT setting you are looking for is approx 12.6 +/- A/F ratio, using a WB O2. You can NOT use a narrow band O2 for tuning, you don't have the resolution using a narrow band. Do you happen to have an issue with surging on high speed Decel by chance? If so, it's because of learn mode as well. Hope this helps you a bit.

Well Tom, we never really killed the business, just kind of "parked" it for a while. Our primary jobs kept getting in the way and it was getting impossible to run things efficiently. I also deploy outside the country for months on end with the military which is an issue. We still have the manifolds made in CA by Eddy Motorsports sales including from Eckler's and Summit Racing. I plan on getting with Jim this week to discuss a few things and we'll see what happens.

Gibbles

Thanks, good info!

Well now I really wish I had sent an email or something on the hamboard!

I spent about 8hrs in an uncomfortable position cutting and soldering my computer harness for the newer type of plug.
Dynamic EFI sent me a cheat sheet to help with their wiring diagram, it was very helpful.

What I have been doing so far for the tune is to run the ve learn, and then in tuner pro smooth it all out and run again.
However I have been noticing that my ve table is pretty much flattening out, so I have a heated O2 going in.

Also both of my Melrose long tube headers have O2 sensor bungs, so I may end up with a wideband later down the road on the right side.

Next issue will be the tune via dyno, either I need to find a place that can deal with my hardware, or I need to travel somewhere that can.
(Noting that I have not asked around yet)

And I hear you on the safety thing, while trying to get some good load on the engine for a learn I found a nice long canyon that I could get some speed/load, I ended up hitting about 115 in a few spots.
If not for my detector and me slowing down to avoid passing cars at warp speed I would have probably been arrested due to some speed traps.

Also I hope you guys start up business again, there were several things on your site I'm interested in.
(namely the fuel pressure assembly would be very helpful right now, and then in the near future tb bore service)

Also any suggestions for a good wideband setup would be very helpful.

Gibbles

good stuff!

I think I have almost all of my stuff ironed out in the car, it will be time for some drives again!

One of my last good mountain drives was when my powersteering rack was on it's last leg, as long as I kept it nice and hot it was doing ok.

Now I have a turnone rack, more hp, and hopefully a new braking system fully installed by this weekend...

Tom400CFI

I'll do the Nebo loop for sure, as soon as the leaves start to change. Only a few weeks away. If you'd like to join, LMK.

mrfeeney

Buccaneer, Since I am a new member I am not allowed to pm yet, I am interested in a ham board, could you pm me with some contact info?