Long Crank To Start...now even more.......
07-11-2016, 11:27 PM
#61
Team Owner
I have replaced most of the fuel system & ignition system which is what I normally do with any used car, especially a classic that I purchase. This gives me a better car and I know what is new and how long it has been in there, so I haven't done anything or spent any money that I wouldn't have any way. Before I spend a lot of time checking wiring, sensors etc., I am considering having the ECM repaired or purchasing a new one. I left the car sit too long this past winter and ruined a battery because of it. I have a new one in there now. This may have caused damage to the ECM. I had a company rebuild the fuel injection control module for my Ford 350 Super Duty, best thing I could have done for the truck. I'm sure there is a company out there that rebuilds ECMs & offers different programming packages as was the case for my FICM. Will look around for a while. At least I will rule that part out as being bad.
07-12-2016, 09:44 AM
#62
Advanced
Thread Starter
I was thinking on this problem last night and I happened to recall a similar issue I had with a 70 Nova that I had years ago. Turned out to be the ignition switch. I will hot wire the distributor direct from the battery to see if the problem is eliminated.
07-17-2016, 06:43 PM
#63
Advanced
Thread Starter
UPDATE: Since we know the long crank to start is a known ECM issue with the 89 model my attention this weekend on was on the start/stall issue. Set the car up with pressure gauge on fuel rail, strobe light on plug wire and voltage meter on Bat terminal of distributor. At key on, fuel pressure is at 42psi. After key off, pressure was still at 10psi an hour later.
While running at idle, pressure is at 39psi. It took 7 attempts at starting for the engine to idle....same as before.....start die....start die. Each time it died I monitored the fuel pressure, distributor bat terminal voltage and spark plug wire strobe. No loss any where. Installed a new intake manifold CTS with no change. Cleaned the MAF sensor with alcohol .....no change. I have the throttle body removed with the TPS & IAC removed. Thoroughly cleaned the throttle body and ohm tested the TPS and IAC, both are within parameters. I ran a jumper from the battery to the distributor which rules out the ignition switch. I have noticed that even during a warm start the engines stumbles momentarily to idle then recovers. Will move on to the ECM next.
While running at idle, pressure is at 39psi. It took 7 attempts at starting for the engine to idle....same as before.....start die....start die. Each time it died I monitored the fuel pressure, distributor bat terminal voltage and spark plug wire strobe. No loss any where. Installed a new intake manifold CTS with no change. Cleaned the MAF sensor with alcohol .....no change. I have the throttle body removed with the TPS & IAC removed. Thoroughly cleaned the throttle body and ohm tested the TPS and IAC, both are within parameters. I ran a jumper from the battery to the distributor which rules out the ignition switch. I have noticed that even during a warm start the engines stumbles momentarily to idle then recovers. Will move on to the ECM next.
Last edited by papatioman; 07-17-2016 at 06:53 PM.
07-17-2016, 06:50 PM
#64
Team Owner
Did you take the IAC housing off with new gaskets? Did you set the IAC using the IAC counts?
07-17-2016, 07:12 PM
#66
Advanced
Thread Starter
07-17-2016, 07:13 PM
#67
Advanced
Thread Starter
The following users liked this post:
papatioman (07-18-2016)
07-18-2016, 06:51 PM
#70
Team Owner
Not knowing your location in the profile (Hint: Update it so we might be able to help you better in future), I would say you should take a run to an Autozone, O'Rileys, Pep Boys or whatever you have there and borrow their scanner. If it works and it does OBD2 also, you have a winner. That or scour for a Snap ON MT2500 or a Tech 1 if you can get it cheap on Ebay.
07-18-2016, 09:54 PM
#71
Advanced
Thread Starter
Not knowing your location in the profile (Hint: Update it so we might be able to help you better in future), I would say you should take a run to an Autozone, O'Rileys, Pep Boys or whatever you have there and borrow their scanner. If it works and it does OBD2 also, you have a winner. That or scour for a Snap ON MT2500 or a Tech 1 if you can get it cheap on Ebay.
07-18-2016, 10:05 PM
#72
Team Owner
If you don't feel comfortable, give a nearby town. The info you give will allow us to recommend a facility near you for certain jobs you cannot and/or will not do. Also, if I am near someone having trouble and I have tools, I might be able to make an appointment and give him a hand say some time after work. If I am passing through your town, I might be willing to let you try out say my ECM instead of you buying one and finding that it wasn't the problem.
07-18-2016, 10:38 PM
#73
Advanced
Thread Starter
If you don't feel comfortable, give a nearby town. The info you give will allow us to recommend a facility near you for certain jobs you cannot and/or will not do. Also, if I am near someone having trouble and I have tools, I might be able to make an appointment and give him a hand say some time after work. If I am passing through your town, I might be willing to let you try out say my ECM instead of you buying one and finding that it wasn't the problem.
07-23-2016, 07:51 PM
#74
Advanced
Thread Starter
Update
Sorry these updates are a week apart. Weekends are the only time I have to work on the car. Reassembled the throttle body with a new IAC.
First crank....started and stayed running....thought the problem was solved. Second crank.....starts & dies. Third crank starts & dies. Pulled the connector on the MAF sensor as suggested in this thread....started right up and stayed running. Left it run for a while to reach operating temperature to make sure all was well.
Left the car sit for 4 hours to cool down. With the MAF connected.....same issue as before. After I unplug it....starts up and stays running. Guess I found my problem. Thanks for everyone's help here!
First crank....started and stayed running....thought the problem was solved. Second crank.....starts & dies. Third crank starts & dies. Pulled the connector on the MAF sensor as suggested in this thread....started right up and stayed running. Left it run for a while to reach operating temperature to make sure all was well.
Left the car sit for 4 hours to cool down. With the MAF connected.....same issue as before. After I unplug it....starts up and stays running. Guess I found my problem. Thanks for everyone's help here!
07-24-2016, 06:30 PM
#75
Advanced
Thread Starter
According to this article, a bad MAF sensor would cause the stalling issue I have been having as well.
http://www.youfixcars.com/mass-airflow-sensor.html
http://www.youfixcars.com/mass-airflow-sensor.html
07-24-2016, 07:43 PM
#76
Team Owner
Sorry these updates are a week apart. Weekends are the only time I have to work on the car. Reassembled the throttle body with a new IAC.
First crank....started and stayed running....thought the problem was solved. Second crank.....starts & dies. Third crank starts & dies. Pulled the connector on the MAF sensor as suggested in this thread....started right up and stayed running. Left it run for a while to reach operating temperature to make sure all was well.
Left the car sit for 4 hours to cool down. With the MAF connected.....same issue as before. After I unplug it....starts up and stays running. Guess I found my problem. Thanks for everyone's help here!
First crank....started and stayed running....thought the problem was solved. Second crank.....starts & dies. Third crank starts & dies. Pulled the connector on the MAF sensor as suggested in this thread....started right up and stayed running. Left it run for a while to reach operating temperature to make sure all was well.
Left the car sit for 4 hours to cool down. With the MAF connected.....same issue as before. After I unplug it....starts up and stays running. Guess I found my problem. Thanks for everyone's help here!
