vettedude94

Hello,

I recently have come across a problem with my automatic C4. At first, I was driving down the interstate like normal and then my dash flickers and the numbers cycle through quickly as if it had just started up and at the same time it seemed like the engine lost power for a split second, not enough to stop completely though. With that happening I made it home fine. Then the next day on the way to work everything seemed perfect, but on the way back I was driving and the engine and dash just completely cut out. All the electronics on the inside work except the dash. I tried starting the engine again after putting it into park and completely turning the key to lock and then to ignition to get it back going. It started up and was fine until I was almost home and the engine cut out again along with the dash. Again all electronics work except for dash. This time however the engine would not start back on when I turned the key to ignition, and the dash would not turn on either while all other electronics worked.
I tried wiggling the key and it would turn back on like normal. Then without driving I started wiggling the key to see if moving it would force the engine to cut out with the dash and it did. Now I have been unable to start it for the past two days.
My question is do these problems mean I have a bad lock cylinder or if I'm experiencing issues with my VATS? When I enter the car and while the door is open the security light is flashing, when I close the door it stops flashing. When I insert the key, nothing happens with the security light, when I turn the key nothing happens. If I leave the door open and try the key, the light flashes the entire time except when I turn to ignition, then when I turn to crank the starter (which it doesn't crank) the light starts flashing again. I'm not sure if this means I have another security system installed or what.
I would appreciate any help with this problem! I can give more information if need also.
Thank you in advance!

jv9999

I would start checking grounds. VATS will not cause the dash to quit. I would start with the ones on the back of the passenger side head.

Hooked on Vettes

Since the problem is solid now.

Turn the ignition On.

1) Does the Service Engine Soon indicator come on solid?

2) If you shift the transmission to reverse do the backup lights come on?

3) Do the turn signals work?

If no to all of the above you're missing 12 volts from the Ignition switch Pink wire.

Since you wiggled the key and it did shut the engine off it could be bad contacts in the ignition switch or the ignition switch needs adjusting. It's mounted on the middle of the steering column. It's held on by a bolt and nut. It has some play where it can manually be moved up or down on the column.

If you have a volt meter with the ignition On verify you have 12 volts
at the ECM fuse in the passenger side end of dash fuse panel. If no 12 volts you need to find out why there is no 12 volts on the Pink wire coming from the ignition switch.

You can see that Pink wire provides 12 volts for the dash cluster, turn signal flasher, INJ 1, INJ2, ECM, backup lights and some other fuses.

vettedude94

Hooked on Vettes,

Just like you predicted it was a no to 1-3 and I checked the fuse and no volts coming to it. I'll be checking the pink wire tomorrow or the day after. I need to get a steering wheel and lock plate puller first.
Thank you very much for the useful and concise information!

Hooked on Vettes

You don't need to take the steering column apart to get to the ignition switch. All you need to do is remove the courtesy lamp foot well panel and I think possible the carpeted panel above the drivers knee.

Then look up and you will see the ignition switch which is bolted to the steering column. If I recall the connector with the Pink wire is on the transmission side of the steering column. That's where you can take your 12 volt measurement.

Beware there is 12 volts going to the ignition switch all the time. If the switch is bad, disconnect the negative battery terminal before you replace it.

For better access you can also drop the column by removing two large bolts at the steering column to dash brace. I think there also may be some bolts where the steering column meets the firewall that you should remove. The column then drops down and you can rest the steering column assembly on the drivers seat.

First picture shows the two rods along the column.



One rod activates the ignition switch. If you rotate the ignition key you will see the rod move.

Second rod activates hi lo beam switch. If you activate the hi low beam switch you will see the 2nd rod move.

The hi lo beam switch shares one of the same mounting fasteners as the ignition switch.

This picture shows the ignition switch and the nut and bolt that holds it to the column.
Red arrow points to the ignition switch.
Green arrow points to the hi low beam switch.



Picture of the ignition switch.

You remove that push pin after installation.

Cliff Harris

The SECURITY light has nothing at all to do with VATS. Its only purpose is to indicate the status of the TDS (Theft Deterrent System -- the one that honks the horn if you open the door while it's armed).

VATS only functions when the ignition is first turned on. It can't kill the engine while it's running.

It appears that you have an intermittent connection on one of the battery connections. I suggest that you check the battery cables (BOTH ends) and the junction block behind the battery. It also appears that your ignition switch needs to be adjusted.

vettedude94

So turns out it was the ignition switch! I just replaced it and it starts up nicely! Thank you very much for that help!
However it seems I have a new problem now. For some reason the brake light is on even after disengaging the park brake, also the anti lock brake light is on, and the middle two backlights on the cluster are out (all 4 were working before). The two different brake lights are also very hot to the touch if thats not normal. If

Hooked on Vettes

Brake light indicator can be turned on by low brake fluid, Parking brake applied or the Ignition switch when the key cylinder is in Bulb Test or the Start positions.

Bulb test is the position between Run and Start. It's not a fixed position.
Example if you rotate the key and hold it just before the Start position certain bulbs on the driver information center should light such as the Brake indicator. This is just a test so you know the bulb works.

Normal operation when the ignition is On, the Anti lock indicator should light for a second then go out indicating the ABS module has passed self test.

Since the light is On the ABS module has failed self test.

1) Verify the Brake fuse has 12 volts. It is Hot all the time.
2) Verify the Gages fuse measures 12 volts with ignition On.

Could be if you slightly loosen the Ignition Switch and move it slightly up or down it may fix the two problems.

Verify the electrical plugs are completely seated in the Ignition switch connector.

When you install a new Ignition switch you verify the Accessories and Start position operate properly since they are the two extreme positions when you rotate the key counter clockwise and clockwise.

If all else fails, reinstall the old Ignition switch and verify if the Brake and ABS indicator go off.

As for the 2 dash back lighting bulbs being out most likely the filaments are burnt out from the fluctuating power. The 4 panel bulbs are in parallel so chances are either the filaments are burnt out or the bulb sockets that hold the bulbs are making a bad connection with the circuit board.