Tom400CFI

True. This stuff shouldn't be this hard. More time has been spent posting here, than testing anything.

Gibbles

Oh yeah I got the light...

Hottest day of the summer, I was hauling butt up this road in traffic, I was driving like a dbag, keeping the RPM in the 3k to 4k range to keep my pipes singing ect... then right before I get to the top of this hill I notice my temps are at about 240... I allow the transmission to shift up and let off of the throttle and ease the car over the top, then coming down the hill I figure it will cool off. gets higher... then a traffic jam starts.
I managed to get off of the road, I make it to a gas station and I cool the car off, top the coolant level and continue on my way home...

issue starts again, however this time I'm in a traffic jam, nowhere to go...

In the end I decided f*** it, if I kill the engine then so be it, it will just mean a 383 stroker... it was a very stressful day

antfarmer2

Amen you're preaching to the choir.

Tom Winton

Ok, I will get the tester by the weekend. I kinda hope it isn't a head gasket. I would like closure on this though...

Tom Winton

Yeah, I thought this shouldn't be this hard. I am a computer tech for mac and pc, website designer, work at a print shop as a graphic artist, etc. So sorry about the lack of knowledge on this particular subject. At least I am trying, and I did a hell of a tune up before dealing with the overheat issue.

SELLC

antfarmer2

No problem of the lack of knowledge just try something. At least warm it up and feel the two big radiator hoses if one is colder we are on to something..

Tom Winton

Ok, went home and did ALL kinds of tests. Felt movement in the radiator hoses, ran to 240 on the digital and then shut it off. The surge tank was hot, the radiator hoses were hot, and the radiator was hot. I got the thermal gun and checked temps on EVERYTHING and recorded video on the entire process. Alot of air came out bleeder valve again. I looked under the car and noticed quite a bit of coolant. I now suspect that the new water pump is leaking from a gasket, and the metallic noise is the belt tensioner. This weekend, I am going to remove the water pump and I have brand new gaskets just in case. I will scrape and clean the engine and the pump, use new felpro gaskets, put back together and try this again.

Before I got the timing right, the temp never exceeded 204 with the fans grounded and running. So I have been asking myself what I did different.

Also, would like to know what direction the water pump coupling goes. The side with the ring faces the engine, not the water pump I believe...

antfarmer2

Ok that will do it. Make sure you seal the pump bolts and pray you did not blow a gasket running it up to 260 or ruin your opti. Since you have the pump off but a nipple on it with a hose.

Pull your knock sensors and flush it right this time.

Tom Winton

Ok, talk to you after the weekend with the results!

WVZR-1

OP - I'd maybe consider doing an analyzer test with the car "as is" before disassembling everything. There's very simple "block test" kits done through and using the cooling system OR you could maybe consider having an exhaust system check with a 4 gas analyzer.

I don't know where your located so I can't suggest but NAPA should have the "Bulb Tester" - the 4 gas might be an inexpensive option depending on where you're located and the facilities available.

I'd think "TOM400CFI" and others might agree.

I scanned through the thread quickly but I'd think this would certainly maybe be the next best procedure in your present situation. You might ask local also regarding the bleed, there's many thoughts about which sometimes include lifting/jacking but depends much on location of bleeder(s).

GOOGLE maybe "Block Test" NAPA Bulb Tester - do you need to buy? Maybe OR maybe someone rents/loans and you buy the dye. It costs "NOTHING to ask.

It seems you've had this car to "operating temps" long enough for the 4-gas and also the bulb check to be considered maybe reliable. Are they definitive and the FINAL required. Certainly NOT.

Tom Winton

Ok, I will see. Thanks for the advice, we do have a Napa here...

antfarmer2

I would check the hose clamps on the pump first before you pull them pump.

RUU

You can narrow down the source of the metallic noise by removing the belt and running the engine. The car won't overheat from that since the water pump is not driven from the belt.

A Peter C4

Has the thermostat been verified that it is LT1 type? regular stats don't work ,has radiator been out to clean outer core air flow?Bleed system.Do this, After filling block then install stat and housing then run 2500 rpm with cap off and continue to fill, put cap on now,this lets steam vents in head to bleed,then let idle watch temps check for leaks let cool check level.This method works well for me.put cap on while at 2500 or get bath.

Tom Winton

Yes, got the thermostat for LT1's. Did not do anything with the radiator, it is supposed to be 2 years old per my friend that I bought the car from.

Tom Winton

Ok, with new water pump seals and flush/fill again, the temp stays around 209 on the digital, and the analog is a little less than in the middle! It stays cool and drives great!

antfarmer2

Good job

Tom Winton

I know this sounds crazy, but after a great 45 minute drive, I parked. When I backed out, now I have an oil leak. Since I got it rolling, I decided to trade in the 92 vette and my 2014 Honda Civic Si for a used 2008 low miles Corvette! It is awesome! 6 speed manual, red jewel tint coat paint, etc. This made the wife happy that I am not working on the older one anymore. It is fast! Very happy, thank you everyone with ideas and theories that took the time to suggest fixes.

antfarmer2

We will miss you and warn the others LOL