some0ne49

Hi all;
I want to build a street motor with 350+ hp to install in my (first vette) 86 automatic. My current motor is running so I want to start from scratch or buy a crate motor. I have access to a machine shop and am retired so my time is worthless. My car is tagged antique in TX so I don't need no stinking inspection sticker. I want to look stock and kind of like the way my tpi looks even with its limitations. I was thinking about a 383 low to mid-range motor. Any help or ideas would be welcome. First what block to start with if I build myself?

c4cruiser

I would suggest getting a fully assembled crate motor as these engines come with a warranty that can be up to 12 months long. There are a wide variety of GM engines that will provide the power levels you want. Also look at BluePrint engines for Chevy crate engines.

Using a local engine builder can work, but for the most part, you won't get anything beyond a 90 day warranty. And if you get components and you put the engine together yourself, don't expect a lot in the way of any warranty coverage.

What you should do now is to have a true dual exhaust system with an X-pipe installed. Make sure that a shop uses 2/1-2" pipe. You can install headers now or get them when the engine is ready to be installed.

With the extra power you want, you will need a tune. There is PC software available that allows you to do some datalogging and that data will be needed for a company to create a new chip to go into the ECM.

Consider changing the gear ratio in the differential. You probably have something like 2.59 or 2.73 gears right now. Go to something like a 3.45 or even 3.73.

You didn't mention what the mileage is on the car, but consider rebuilding the A4 trans simply because of the increased HP/torque from the new engine.

AJ123

Your right on the money. I went with the TKO 600 transmission. The engine Dr in Los Angeles built my 383. California is tough on inspection so we pushed the curve on everything.

some0ne49

Thanks for your advise and a gear, headers, exhaust and a trans are on the list.

I am really trying to compare a crate motor to what I can build one for. I have experience building, use of a shop for free and did I mention my time is cheap. Anything I can save on labor I can spend on goodies. Also my car is running with no issues (w/over 100k) so I can take my time.

I was thinking of using a one piece main roller block w/factory valve train except for cam and rockers with cast rotating assembly and aftermarket aluminum heads with all the compression I can run on pump gas (10.5 or maybe 11 w/angle plugs) but it looks like there is a lot bigger selection of rotating assemblies for two piece blocks. Also from what I read I need to use a small diameter balancer to clear the chassis.

The motor will probably never see more than 5500 rpm with the tpi
and the tpi may need work to get that.

Clean looking 383 AJ. Is the tpi stock and how does it work on your motor?

AJ123

The motor will probably never see more than 5500 rpm with the tpi
and the tpi may need work to get that. 2 bolt main

Clean looking 383 AJ. Is the tpi stock and how does it work on your motor?[/QUOTE]

My Vet is an 87. They come with aluminum heads stock. I also didn't know that the stock engine was a 2 bolt main.
We had plenty of room when we put the engine in so no problem. You can see it in my picture. To remove it ahhh. The oil pan was a bitch .
The Throttle Body is BBK Twin 52mm part number 1534. Awesome.
With the 2 bolt Main 5500 rpm would be about it .Edlebrock had some head alum that fit but after checking with them and some other experts the stock heads were better. And I had just done a valve job on it.
Like crate engines mine is blue printed, balanced, and all that. I only paid for parts. Dave the machinist and I assembled it. An incredible friend Dave.

might be right heads
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/e...ibanner=SREPD2

Dt86

Im running a ported edelbrock high flow intake and runners with 24 lb injectors and mines only going up to 4900 rpm. Not sure how much of a difference my iron heads make versus aluminum 113 heads though. Maybe they might get a few more rpms?

some0ne49

Thanks for the input. It looks like the TPI is going to be the biggest restriction but I really like the way it looks. Have to start a new thread to find a way to make it work to 55 or 6 without spending more than I paid for the car LOL.

BlowerWorks

Attached my spec that may help you out !

Dt86

Ha ha ha Welcome to C4's! Im looking for a used mini ram or super ram for mine.

88BlackZ-51

All depends on your budget? My 421 cost me $9500 to build years ago.

some0ne49

I would like to keep my budget under 5k for parts. By the way
BlowerWorks i'd be hard to make that look stock!!!

AJ123

That was my budget. With me doing the work built a great setup

cv67

a heavily worked over stock or aftermarket base/runners is a plus if you HAVE To have TPI. The FIRST TPI is a real neat setup, king size tpi and will outperform the best of ported units ck it out.
Anythings better than the stock heads, a stroker can eat up head intake and cam real easy, headers a must. Youll love the result though

QCVette

If you want to keep your TPI, you might want to look at a Vortec head and Vortec conversion lower manifold. On a stock L98 they say it will add about 50 hp and more depending on cam, etc.

An example
http://sdparts.com/i-23896057-sdpc-s...baseplate.html

And there are several choices for Vortec heads. The Vortec heads were quite similar to the LT1 heads except for the intake manifold bolt pattern.
http://sdparts.com/search.html#!sq%3Dvortec%20heads

Lots of good choices for how to build/buy a motor that makes a little more power.

Good luck and keep us posted on what you do and how it comes out.

GREGGPENN

Here's a good "model build" for you. Results are some of the best for a TPI intake.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...o-results.html

Our 1-pc RMS blocks are fine for a "torque monster". 4-bolts are better when you start trying to spin the motor up. (It helps make sure an imbalance in your RA doesn't try to rip the motor apart).

Also, as you can see by the build, ported 113's aren't a bad option when you aren't trying to create the top-end HP numbers.

Cuisinart is right about the FIRST being a stellar aftermarket TPI setup since it comes with it's own Throttle body. They normally require the use of a different "small-cap" distributor due to back-end clearance.

some0ne49

Thanks again for all the great advise.

I think I will start a quest to find a donor L31 roller motor. From the reading I have done some truck and many performance car blocks had 4-bolt mains (2 bolt w/studs prob. good enough) and a roller cam. If anyone knows the casting # for the 4-bolt I would love to have that. Then build up to my TPI (I may have to increase my budget to include the FIRST TPI). Will a small cap electronic dist. work with my ECM? I like Accel.

GREGGPENN, your numbers look really good, not quite what I hoped for but better than I really expected. Massive torque.

I want to use an internally balanced RA and flat top pistons if I can find a head chamber that will get me close to 10.5 compression.

I have done some Vortec heads and you can get their numbers very close to most aftermarket heads with very little work. The late 86 and up aluminum heads with center bolts are vortec, right? I want aluminum mostly for weight and easier porting.

cv67

The 86 heads arent the same as the 95?up vortec.

some0ne49

Early 86's had cast iron angle plug heads w/bolt holes in the valve cover lip. I think that means non-vortec.

Late 86's had aluminum heads w/center vc bolts and were I think vortecs.

cv67

1996- 2000 casting 062 or 906 vortec heads