Travis Bailey

I need help finding which would be the right torque for my set up. Right now it stalls when I put it into gear unless I'm giving it gas. It's the stock torque on the motor. The motor is rebuild vortech 350 with xr270x cam with a elderblock high rise intake and holly 750 carb with vortech heads. The stock torque keeps cause it to stall and I need one with a high stall but I wasn't sure which one

Travis Bailey

Xr270hr cam.sorry spell check

Kevova

Stalling is more to do with carb and timing adjustments, than stall speed. I would go with a 2500 stall converter that still retains lock up. You will need to change rear end ratio especially is you still have 2.59. If you can only do one, I would do rear axle first ideally 3.73. That way engine can breath and not lug at low RPM until you get converter.

mrodoc

Your cam is 218/224 .495/.502 and 110 LSA
For comparison I have a 1994 with a 4L60E trans and 3.07 diff.
I will go to a 3.73 diff when I can afford it, and have the time to install.
Anyway, I have a 227/234 .568/.574 110LSA camshaft.
I installed a 3000 stall lock up converter. I drives fine around town. I don't put it in overdrive or I get some surge when it shifts into overdrive. I can tell you that with 285 drag radials, if I punch it from a dead stop, the rear tires light up.

Travis Bailey

Yeah I going to do a transmission swap when I do it but as of now it drops from around 1500 rpm to around 5 to 6 when I place into gear which is killing it I need to try and get those balanc3 out. Right the torque is from the same model as the motor I have which is around 98 truck. I know that the corvette stick torque would have been better but what would be a good one if I have ti switch just it and not rear as of now

Tom400CFI

I agree with Kevova; you've got some tuning to do.

You have a carb set up, I'm guessing the ECM is long gone? How do you actuate the lock up feature on your converter? A toggle switch? Any chance that the switch is switched ON?

bjankuski

I agree, many times a stalling condition is related to a vacuum leak. That cam should idle Ok at 650 RPM, look for a vacuum leak, (PCV valve, brake booster, carb gasket) that is causing the car to stall in gear. (Is your spark advance hooked up to ported vacuum or full vacuum?

Travis Bailey

Right now it's hooked to ported. I jacked the rear end up yesterday and let it run in gear and it runs find till I hit the break. Then it's drops the rpm and stall kinda like manuel when u come to stop with out hitting the clutch

WVZR-1

You just need to sort the TCC operation I'd think. You mention none of this in your 1st post so maybe you explain just how you've done this. TCC and correct TV adjustment before any converter purchase I'd think. You also don't mention axle ratio so there's I'd say much information that needs to be added to the thread by you.

Maybe mention the engine you do have and the specific transmission you're using. In post #5 you hint this is likely a much later engine/trans combination. How the transmission is controlled is maybe important!! BTW - I did see the later Vortec mentioned but the entire combination I'd think is maybe the key.

Kevova

Unplug The TCC connector from transmission and make sure stalling quits. If it does, review the wiring for switch. If stalling continues the same way TCC solenoid in transmission is most likely stuck on. I would adjust carb and timing adjusted, before reconnecting TCC connector to trans. Provided TCC it's not stuck on.

Travis Bailey

I haven't tried the tcc yet I'll try it this weekend. I was messing with the time advance line on it and I think it might not be engaging properly so I'm going the disturbed cab off and see if it working