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I cannot make any money being a Corvette mechanic but I am somewhat handy with regular maintenance and a few other repairs. I have changed the plugs in my current Corvette in the past but am having difficulty with one plug. For lack of the proper description it is the passenger side plug closest to the front of the car...to me meaning the headlights. lol. I cant access it for the life of me. One spark plug socket now lives in the lower frame of the car since it fell and I can't even see it. There is no play in any of the pipes and hoses in this area. I did it before but you would never know it. Does anyone have any suggestions or advice? I have to take a break and do something relaxing...like cut the grass before I give it another go.
Get a socket that has the hex on the back then you can get a open end wrench on it to break it. Then get a stanley twist ratchet to remove and install. This is one that you can spin the handle as well as use as a regular ratchet I am sure others make it to maybe harbor freight. I got my Stanley at walmart for $20bucks.
Just read again my hard one was pass side by the fire wall. I took off the inter wheel wells for the others.
Last edited by antfarmer2; 08-22-2016 at 01:50 PM.
All of my passenger side spark plugs come out easy from the bottom side but I have headers. Might give it a try, and you can find your socket while it is jacked up.
Thanks for all of the great suggestions. I got it out using the open end wrench per Antfarmers suggestion. Then I jacked it up, took off the wheel, and found my socket, wrench, and a fuel line bolt that fell over the past 2 days. Glad to end the day on a high note.
Get yourself one of these lights, they work well and are able to snake in areas and have a magnetic ring on the front. Having a built in light doesn't hurt either.
I cannot make any money being a Corvette mechanic but I am somewhat handy with regular maintenance and a few other repairs. I have changed the plugs in my current Corvette in the past but am having difficulty with one plug. For lack of the proper description it is the passenger side plug closest to the front of the car...to me meaning the headlights. lol. I cant access it for the life of me. One spark plug socket now lives in the lower frame of the car since it fell and I can't even see it. There is no play in any of the pipes and hoses in this area. I did it before but you would never know it. Does anyone have any suggestions or advice? I have to take a break and do something relaxing...like cut the grass before I give it another go.
Get yourself one of these lights, they work well and are able to snake in areas and have a magnetic ring on the front. Having a built in light doesn't hurt either.
Now that it is out, Don't forget the anti-seize on the threads. Also I don't suggest the super expensive 100K plugs. Good average ones will do so you can freely toss them every year.
Now that it is out, Don't forget the anti-seize on the threads. Also I don't suggest the super expensive 100K plugs. Good average ones will do so you can freely toss them every year.
+ X2 Thin layer of anti seize applied...I got the good ACDELCO's not the most expensive ones. Thanks for the tip
+ X2 Thin layer of anti seize applied...I got the good ACDELCO's not the most expensive ones. Thanks for the tip
To be honest, anti-seize on the plugs often times just makes them harder to remove the next time around as the compound dries and crystalizes over time. 9 times out of 10 when you remove a plug and it makes all kinds of nasty screeching noises when loosing, it's because of dried up anti-seize.
To be honest, anti-seize on the plugs often times just makes them harder to remove the next time around as the compound dries and crystalizes over time. 9 times out of 10 when you remove a plug and it makes all kinds of nasty screeching noises when loosing, it's because of dried up anti-seize.
I have heard squeaking on dry plugs but not mine since I removed them annually and not 10 years later. I have seen plugs and glow plugs break in the head without anti-seize. Just don't leave it too long or the dissimilar metals will corrode or the anti-seize will dry out.
I have worked on cars, motorcycles, boats, stationary engines and airplanes and in all my years I have never had a spark plug not come out "easily" where I have used anti-seize properly. On my non-flying machines I use PERMATEX brand anti-seize and it has never failed me in over 45 years. On flying machines I use CHAMPION brand anti-seize which is similar to the car stuff but uses alcohol in it which evaporates leaving a graphite layer only between parts.
Anytime you have steel spark plugs going into aluminum cylinder heads ALWAYS use anti-seize on the threads. The threads on both sides have to be clean and dry for it to work the best. If in doubt use a little brake cleaner spray on both the plug and the threaded hole and let it evaporate before moving on.
I have been rebuilding my brake system on my 1988 Coupe and I have used anti-seize on every bolt that I have removed and re-installed. Somebody down the road will appreciate this effort.
If you are worried about it drying out use the higher quality anti-seize as I have had my 1968 for over 25 years and never seen any evidence of "drying out" or "crystallizing" of the anti-seize. My biggest complaint about anti-seize is that it is hard to get off of your hands so wear gloves while working with it!
On my 1988 L-98 I have found the #4 Spark Plug (2nd from front on right side of motor) to be the beast from heck. I bought a socket like the one mentioned above with a head on it for a wrench and used a "GearWrench" ratcheting wrench.
You really need to remove the inner fender and the right front wheel before attempting to remove the plugs on the passenger side. On C4's be sure to seat the spark plug boot carefully as it is easy to not get a good solid connection on those hard to reach plugs (#2 & #4). No sense in making another problem down the road with a "Missing" cylinder.
My 1968 has a L-71 and I can reach all 8 plugs from the top and change them in 10 minutes or less!
I agree. It would have nearly impossible to do without removing both inner fenders on the right side. Surpprisingly there was even enough room to get a torque wrench on the plugs.
To be honest, anti-seize on the plugs often times just makes them harder to remove the next time around as the compound dries and crystalizes over time. 9 times out of 10 when you remove a plug and it makes all kinds of nasty screeching noises when loosing, it's because of dried up anti-seize.
You couldn't more wrong on that!
Anti-seize on steel plugs going into aluminum heads is an absolute must!! The galvanic corrosion that will occur between two dissimilar metals over thousands of heat cycles will eventually lead to plugs seizing into aluminum heads! When left long enough for the petroleum base to dry out?? Something I've never seen, and would probably take decades.... the very small particles of metal left, usually copper or nickel in a quality anti-seize will still be there to prevent corrosion and lubricate the plug threads to facilitate easy removal.
Anti-seize isn't as important when installing plugs into cast iron heads but is still a very good idea for easy removal later!
08-22-2016, 01:16 PM
Spark plug removal help needed
There is no play in any of the pipes and hoses in this area. I did it before but you would never know it. Does anyone have any suggestions or advice? I have to take a break and do something relaxing...like cut the grass before I give it another go.
Then I jacked it up, took off the wheel, and found my socket, wrench, and a fuel line bolt that fell over the past 2 days. 
Glad to end the day on a high note.
