some0ne49

Hi all:

I just pulled my TPI, intake and valve covers on my early 86 vette to clean and repaint andI am going to delete the AIR and EGR while I am at it. I am wondering if that will throw trouble codes and what to do with electrical plugs and vacuum lines that go to removed smog equipment. Car is tagged antique in TX so i don't have any inspection issues.
Also the intake and throttle body appear to be painted the same color as valve covers and the runners and plenum are natural aluminum, is this correct?
Thanks in advance for the help.

Joe C

got to ask, why are you removing the smog pump and egr valve? are you having any issues? whether you have inspections in texas or not, these items are covered by federal law, not state - not that anybody checks these things. my 2-cents -- if everything is in proper working order, i'd leave it as factory configured.

as far as the intake and TB, the intake is a natural cast aluminum, same as intake plenum and runners. the throttle body is natural zinc-aluminum alloy without paint.

some0ne49

I respect your opinion BUT, they are ugly, clutter the engine bay, are a possible source of vacuum and exhaust leaks, a broken air pump will leave you on the side of the road, they do very little to improve emissions on a well maintained engine that will see less than 1k miles a year and did I mention they are UGLY.

Thanks for the paint tips.

Joe C

- anyway, have fun....

Tooch1

Hey,
Just visiting from the C3 side. I used to own an 86 Z51 coupe and thought I'd share how beautiful the engine bay can look with some aluminum polish and a few extras. All the chrome add-ons fit over the original pieces. So nothing was removed. Except for the alternator and polished aluminum valve covers. Note my 86,was an early car therefore it had cast iron heads. That's why the valve covers bolts are on the sides not the center. (All original parts were kept and sold with car.) 18,000 original miles when sold two years ago.
Enjoy,
Jimmy

Tooch1

86 Engine Cont.

c4cruiser

Removing the AIR pump and lines will not cause a code to be set. Remove the vcuum lines and plug the places where they connected. The electrical lines can simply left unplugged but its a good idea to cover the harness connector ends. The tube leading down to the main cat can be removed but make sure to seal up the connector at the main cat to avoid exhaust gasses from leaking out.

If you are not installing headers, the pipe connection going to the tubes on the exhaust manifolds can be capped with a simple pipe cap that has 1/2 NPT threads. These are available at hardware stores. Use some liquid teflon on the threads for a good seal.

Removing the EGR and associated stuff will be another story. A code should be set and I think a new chip is required to prevent EGR error codes from turning on the SES light.

Also removing the AIR pump and using an eliminator kit like the one from TPiS will require a shorter serp belt.

Benny42

AIR removal won't set any codes. EGR removal might set an occasional code on the highway. Mine has been deleted for 4 years (10k miles) and I've got the code set a half dozen times, trips to Dallas or Galveston.

Cliff Harris

You might get an error code 32 for non-operational EGR. It will reset when you turn off the engine. The test is done when the car is cruising at more or less constant speed, so it's rare. The symptom will be that you are cruising down the road and the SES light will come on for no apparent reason (the car will not run any differently). The SES light will stay on as long as the ignition is on, but it will not be lit the next time the car is started.

some0ne49

Thanks all for the help. Clean looking engine bay Tooch. I am in the process of collecting parts for a 383 build that will include a chip and headers but I just can't live with this any more. Found car in the sticks and it had been sitting for years.

some0ne49

Not so embarrassing to open my hood now. Will do till stroker is ready.

aklim

While you are at it, you probably can get away with removing the fuel purge canister.