Gibbles

Trying to replace my pinion seal on my 84...
i have tried my impact that can do about 400lbs, i tried a breaker bar, i even got it nice and hot with a cheap propane torch.
i can't get the bolt to budge even a little!

I did this on my s10 no problem before but the bolt is really on there.

​​​​​​​I'm guessing I'll need to get it really hot before it will budge?

WVZR-1

I'm guessing you mean "pinion nut" but I certainly can't imagine having the issue that you mention. There's certainly some sort of issue, what are you using to hold the pinion flange stationary?

I stumbled upon this some time ago and thought it was rather interesting. It ain't me or any of my acquaintances either.



This guy from the looks of the wrenching points looks like it's an attempt to tighten - not loosen. Maybe?

confab

It is. He is doing the crush sleeve, I bet.

Gibbles

Yes the pinion nut, and i can't even get the thing off.

I tried with a breaker bar until i felt a sharp pain in my back and gave up from there lol

Looking at the pinion nut it looks like it was staked on the side...
car has zero rust anywhere also...

VikingTrad3r

hipe u have many overly redundant jacks points going on.

my 85 was very tight as well.

i let it soak with pb blaster for a couple days (this was before i knew about the best penetrant in the world which is 50/50 acetone/atf mix)

during those two days i used a propane torch like yours to heat cycle it a couple times. i doused it with penetrant as it cooled and i imagined it being drawn in as it constracted (lol).

Tom400CFI

Bring it up here. I'll zip it off for you.

Gibbles

I'm in!
I can have the rear end pulled and in the back of my blazer for this weekend if your game.

Tom400CFI

That or your could just drive it up and we can do it in the car. How ever you want.

If the weather is GOOD this weekend, we're going to Powell. If it's questionable or windy, I'll be at home. Week nights work for me too.

Gibbles

Sounds good, and right now I have the car up on jackstands, c beam has been removed along with driveshaft due to installing a new transmission pump.

Only think keeping me from having it put together is needing some shims to ensure the converter sits all the way on the pump.

So if it's nice this weekend I'll put the car together, if not then I'll pull the rear end.

Tom400CFI

Sounds good. We'll stay in touch.

383vett

Stick a 4 foot pipe on the end of the breaker bar and jump on it. Use a 6 point socket or impact socket. Those nuts can be really hard to remove. You don't want to shim the converter all the way to the pump...1/8" clearance is fine. You can use a washer to get that.

confab

This is good advice. You can create a bind if you run the converter right against the flexplate.

The converter should always pull up to the flexplate and the pilot should seat in the back of the crank. I know 1/4 to 3/8ths looks like a lot, but it is fine.

Gibbles

thanks for the fyi, and I kinda made that sound bad the way I described the pump to converter.

I actually screwed up last time around and I had to much clearance, noticed while doing an RCA on what was left of my old pump rotor...

Now I have a new housing and a billet unit, and doing a quick web search I found a reference to shims...

Then I remembered some thick looking washers under the car that I could not figure out where they came from...

So as I understand it, I need to push the converter all the way into the pump, measure the clearance from the tab on the converter to the flywheel, and then subtract roughly 1/8in from that number to get my shim thickness?

confab

Personally, I would prefer a little more.. But with your shims installed and the bolts loose, you should be able to push the converter back at least that much, yes.

IOW: There should be at least that much clearance left after your shims are installed.

Kevova

You lost me with converter shims. Before taking nut loose check turning torque and get a new pinion nut. You want to tighten new nut to match original turning torque. Old nut can back off and nut can be under or over torqued. There true is no fixed torque setting for nut, because of collapsible spacer. You might try to borrow or rent pinion holder/pinion puller from dealer or maybe ebay. Good Luck

confab

The problem is: If the converter hub ever binds against the pump rotor, even a little, you will trash a transmission because the pump will fail.

If you aren't ripping the hub off converters from excess clearance, or you have some strange issue that causes you to run on the edge of the rotor.. I would be very careful.

With an automatic transmission, it is called a "flex plate" for a reason. It does move a bit. The Converter is quite heavy. If you bind this thing, it'll do big damage in a second.

confab

PS: Quality standards vary.

Also, and little known fact: Converter height IS adjustable (I have had custom height converters built to deal with weird clearance problems.)

They are all expecting a certain amount of "pull up" when they are assembled and the hub is welded on.

Trying to defeat them can cause problems.

Gibbles

From what i saw on the pump rotor it looked like the converter was riding half way onto the lugs.

And i had installed a pressure gauge in the car, right before it gave out i was still holding pressure, but the gauge started to flutter like crazy.
and then as i was getting speed i had no gears, and 0 pressure.

I'm pretty sure it was a combo of modified pressures, and high rpm that killed it, and i had just found a timing table that really woke the car up.

And I'm shooting for dead center between 1/8 & 1/16in. (Per a spec i found online)

​​​​​​​Currently im at a loose .267

I have been burnt by trying to target minium clearance... (Killed a 3/4 clutch pack and the 2/4 band)

confab

Look at the wear mark on your converter hub. If it is up off the end? It's good. Don't bottom the pump trying to "fix" something that isn't a problem.

Pro Tips:

1) LEAVE the return springs in. ATSG are wrong.

These springs are there to prevent cross leak burn. Leave them in place.

2) 40-50-60 is fine on the 3-4

3) Be careful diagnosing the 4L60/E by the condition of the 3/4 clutch alone.

If you lose pressure ANYWHERE, the 3/4 will burn first. So, it looks like the culprit.

But it's not.

confab

PS: Repeated 3/4 burn should focus on the servo check ball housing.