stanleyz

Well here I was just going to install some new bilstein shocks. I get the car on the lift and remove the wheels and check the front shock. as I suspected it's finished. So while it's up crawl under to see what I can tidy up. First problem is I find some coolant drops on the cross member. More on that in my next post. The next thing I find is a slightly (see pictures) splintered transverse spring. So what is anyones opinion? Does this constitute an emergency that I must repair before driving the car or could I get along for a while. I think I might like to change both springs to firm up the ride but would like to get the shocks on and drive it a bit before I make a decision. I average only 1000 miles a year. What think

Dt86

You'll want to replace that asap. I had the same problem with my rear spring. The front one is more involved to replace. You need to get the same spring code that's stamped on yours.

antfarmer2

Looks like just the outside can you flick some off to see deeper?

96GS#007

Ultra close-up pics are not a help in this case. There's little to no context of where along the length of the spring the crack is located.

Might be that the spring is failing or it may be that someone at some point caught it with a jack or ran over something.

If it's failing, it needs to be replaced. If someone nicked the edge, its often ok.

stanleyz

Hard to get a very good picture. As best I can tell whats showing there is the total of damage. That hole in the cross member is dead center and the spring is failing cause there is no way to get a jack in there. Well let me take that back and say it would be very difficult. The splinter is on the rear edge and is about 3 inches long and just the couple strands visible in the pics. As best I can tell there is no other damage. I have a lot of boat experience and I've never seen fiberglass splinter like that. I guess it has to do with how the springs are layed up to make them springy. Has anyone ever heard of a spring breaking and allowing the a frames to buckle up? That would seem to me to be worst case failure.

JrRifleCoach

We used to file out the cracks and blend from there out in both directions on rotor blades.
There is much more specific info for helicopter components and limits to depth and length of blending.
The objective is to halt the splintering and maintain integrity.

Your damage looks superficial (< 0.025 deep) and could be blended with a file, if access permits.
Otherwise this will continue to propagate and eventually require replacement.
These springs are reasonably cheap and found at used parts dealers for 100-200 dollars.
The front is a day (+2x6pack) project. The rear a coupla hours maybe two beers.

96GS#007

good explanation

QCVette

I have to disagree. If the rear only takes a couple of hours, there is certainly enough time for more than two beers.

antfarmer2

But they aren't all professionals.

Kevova

At least one lower control arm will have to be removed to replace front spring. So if there any suspension upgrades you are pondering....it might be a good time to tackle them.

stanleyz

Rifle coach. Rode under some rotor blades back in 1968. Didn't occur to me that they would be similar to the springs but it makes sense. RU suggesting that I could remove the spring and repair it with some fiber glass cloth or just resin and curer?

I have the instructions for taking it off. Don't look too hard if the jack don't slip.

I'd really like to install the new shocks and see how they impact handling. I want to reserve the opportunity to stiffen up the ride if the shocks don't do it.

Thanks to y'all for your responses.

383vett

If you are going to remove the spring, just replace it. As stated, they aren't that expensive and you'll only have to do it once. When those things fail, it's not pretty.

stanleyz

Well, I agree with that sediment once will probably be enough on the front one. I have a small lift which might make it easier but still it appears daunting. i have looked in the obvious places for springs, Ecklers sells a kit front and rear for 900+ bucks. wasn't very specific on the properties or resistance. There were a handful on ebay at very attractive prices but none had numbers, a couple were described as soft which would describe what I have but not what I might want. Right now my plan is to wait for my shocks and then drive it and decide which way to go. It's not a car I use so it's just sitting there on the lift. I'm in no hurry.