C4 rack & pinion issues
10-20-2016, 10:26 AM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
C4 rack & pinion issues
Hi guys,
Looking for some advice…i think my rack and pinion is bad.…
I read some other threads on replacement and different options but could not find much on diagnosing…and not much on videos for replacement.
Got a vibration in the steering wheel which gets worse at higher speeds, will get occasional wonder on uneven road, when the car is parked there is a little slop in the steering with a clucking sound from the rack when steering is moved side to side, and you can see that its been leaking.
Im sure its bad…what do you guys think?
Thanks
Looking for some advice…i think my rack and pinion is bad.…
I read some other threads on replacement and different options but could not find much on diagnosing…and not much on videos for replacement.
Got a vibration in the steering wheel which gets worse at higher speeds, will get occasional wonder on uneven road, when the car is parked there is a little slop in the steering with a clucking sound from the rack when steering is moved side to side, and you can see that its been leaking.
Im sure its bad…what do you guys think?
Thanks
10-20-2016, 10:42 AM
#2
Le Mans Master
If it's leaking rack is bad : seal kits are not readily available neither are tools to installed them. Most of the time a leaking steering won't cause vibration above parking lot speeds. I would or have front end inspected for worn parts, along with front tires and balance for source of vibration. Normally a reman steering gear comes with tie rod but not the ends.
10-20-2016, 02:02 PM
#3
Melting Slicks
When my rack went bad on my 88 back in 2003, turn the steering wheel one way I had power steering, turn the other way I had no power steering. I think this is called "being lazy". Mine never leaked. Plan on replacing the power steering pump with a rebuild unit while doing the work. Not a very hard job to do, just need to get the front high in the air.
I went hog wild when installing a re-manufactured rack. Replaced tie rod ends, upper and lower ball joints, added urethane bushings on the whole front end and SS brake lines.
I went hog wild when installing a re-manufactured rack. Replaced tie rod ends, upper and lower ball joints, added urethane bushings on the whole front end and SS brake lines.
10-20-2016, 03:09 PM
#4
Instructor
Thread Starter
If it's leaking rack is bad : seal kits are not readily available neither are tools to installed them. Most of the time a leaking steering won't cause vibration above parking lot speeds. I would or have front end inspected for worn parts, along with front tires and balance for source of vibration. Normally a reman steering gear comes with tie rod but not the ends.
Leak is not bad no fluid on the ground. But u can tell is been leaking for a while.
10-20-2016, 03:51 PM
#5
I just did this project last week, my steering all of a sudden would not turn right anymore.
But first I would put the car securely on jackstands and put the jack under the front crossmember. Do the 12-6 oclock test and the 9 - 3 oclock test(back forth) you should not have any play. Then you can see which joint is bad. If they are good you have a steering ujoint I suppose could go bad but it is under the cap that protects it so you have to remove the alternator. I couldn't find a replacement rack but if you go to parts stores and ask who rebuilds them you may be surprised that they are close by. I found a place less than 1 mile from me and he charged 150 dollars with a sleeve( apparently the aluminum wheres out). I would rebuild before it gets to bad)
put 3 in 1 oil on the rack connectors night before
Disconnect battery
center steering wheel
remove sway bar
Remove alt
remove air pump
remove wheels
separate ball joints with a fork
count threads from nut to inner tie rod and write it down also take some measurements
remove air pump braket
remove ps hoses and resiviour
remove ps pump and bracket together
remove little steering ujoint cover and screw and inspect the shaft/ujoint
remove 3 bolts and lift rack and pinion up a little to remove ujoint connection
then wiggle out pull rack out drivers side
hard part ---find someone to fix it
I put it exactly back the way it was and it drives perfectly straight, but I will get an alignment someday.
Good Luck
Last edited by xrav22; 10-20-2016 at 04:01 PM.
10-20-2016, 05:06 PM
#7
Instructor
Thread Starter
edit mine is 1985.
I just did this project last week, my steering all of a sudden would not turn right anymore.
But first I would put the car securely on jackstands and put the jack under the front crossmember. Do the 12-6 oclock test and the 9 - 3 oclock test(back forth) you should not have any play. Then you can see which joint is bad. If they are good you have a steering ujoint I suppose could go bad but it is under the cap that protects it so you have to remove the alternator. I couldn't find a replacement rack but if you go to parts stores and ask who rebuilds them you may be surprised that they are close by. I found a place less than 1 mile from me and he charged 150 dollars with a sleeve( apparently the aluminum wheres out). I would rebuild before it gets to bad)
put 3 in 1 oil on the rack connectors night before
Disconnect battery
center steering wheel
remove sway bar
Remove alt
remove air pump
remove wheels
separate ball joints with a fork
count threads from nut to inner tie rod and write it down also take some measurements
remove air pump braket
remove ps hoses and resiviour
remove ps pump and bracket together
remove little steering ujoint cover and screw and inspect the shaft/ujoint
remove 3 bolts and lift rack and pinion up a little to remove ujoint connection
then wiggle out pull rack out drivers side
hard part ---find someone to fix it
I put it exactly back the way it was and it drives perfectly straight, but I will get an alignment someday.
Good Luck
I just did this project last week, my steering all of a sudden would not turn right anymore.
But first I would put the car securely on jackstands and put the jack under the front crossmember. Do the 12-6 oclock test and the 9 - 3 oclock test(back forth) you should not have any play. Then you can see which joint is bad. If they are good you have a steering ujoint I suppose could go bad but it is under the cap that protects it so you have to remove the alternator. I couldn't find a replacement rack but if you go to parts stores and ask who rebuilds them you may be surprised that they are close by. I found a place less than 1 mile from me and he charged 150 dollars with a sleeve( apparently the aluminum wheres out). I would rebuild before it gets to bad)
put 3 in 1 oil on the rack connectors night before
Disconnect battery
center steering wheel
remove sway bar
Remove alt
remove air pump
remove wheels
separate ball joints with a fork
count threads from nut to inner tie rod and write it down also take some measurements
remove air pump braket
remove ps hoses and resiviour
remove ps pump and bracket together
remove little steering ujoint cover and screw and inspect the shaft/ujoint
remove 3 bolts and lift rack and pinion up a little to remove ujoint connection
then wiggle out pull rack out drivers side
hard part ---find someone to fix it
I put it exactly back the way it was and it drives perfectly straight, but I will get an alignment someday.
Good Luck
napa and oriley sells referbs for like $150
10-21-2016, 10:56 PM
#10
Melting Slicks
I had a bad steering rack on my 1984. I exchanged it with a vendor on Ebay. It has been on for 3+ years and no problems.
It came with a 5 year warranty also. Cost was $250.00 plus shipping with a core charge until he received my old rack back.
If you would like more info let me know.
It came with a 5 year warranty also. Cost was $250.00 plus shipping with a core charge until he received my old rack back.
If you would like more info let me know.
The following users liked this post:
fflumpy (10-22-2016)
10-22-2016, 07:44 AM
#12
Instructor
Thread Starter
10-22-2016, 07:47 AM
#13
Instructor
That's correct. They dyno test your rack before they send it back and check everything. Mine steers perfectly and is totally dry on the outside. They are not cheap or fast, but do great work.
10-22-2016, 07:53 AM
#14
Instructor
Thread Starter
Im not even sure if the rack is bad? Might take to my local shop (he is really good…but expensive. Get what you pay for i guess) and have him diagnose the prob for me. Then ill fix it myself. I hate to start replacing **** without knowing…i got a "Jack Adapter" coming in the next weekish so i can get the car on jack stands…im going to do the tire swap first and see what happens and go from there.
10-22-2016, 10:01 AM
#15
Instructor
Thread Starter
10-23-2016, 10:47 AM
#18
Instructor