power door locks v2
#1
Heel & Toe
Thread Starter
power door locks v2
I have asked this question already once, but still no solution to my problem.
My power door locks work fine when both doors are open but once closed fail to work.
There have been no modifications to any systems in the car, no after maket parts added, the car is stock
I have replaced both door switch's
both door actuator"s
I replaced with a used off ebay the VATS mod (previous answer thought that item}
but i still can't make it work. Door closed system stops
does anybody have any other idea's?
Thanks
My power door locks work fine when both doors are open but once closed fail to work.
There have been no modifications to any systems in the car, no after maket parts added, the car is stock
I have replaced both door switch's
both door actuator"s
I replaced with a used off ebay the VATS mod (previous answer thought that item}
but i still can't make it work. Door closed system stops
does anybody have any other idea's?
Thanks
Last edited by lofti5; 10-20-2016 at 11:48 PM. Reason: spelling
#2
Try pulling out the door switch plungers all the way and close the door to ajust and turn the door key fully both ways.
#3
Race Director
I have asked this question already once, but still no solution to my problem.
My power door locks work fine when both doors are open but once closed fail to work.
There have been no modifications to any systems in the car, no after maket parts added, the car is stock
I have replaced both door switch's
both door actuator"s
I replaced with a used off ebay the VATS mod (previous answer thought that item}
but i still can't make it work. Door closed system stops
does anybody have any other idea's?
Thanks
My power door locks work fine when both doors are open but once closed fail to work.
There have been no modifications to any systems in the car, no after maket parts added, the car is stock
I have replaced both door switch's
both door actuator"s
I replaced with a used off ebay the VATS mod (previous answer thought that item}
but i still can't make it work. Door closed system stops
does anybody have any other idea's?
Thanks
What year Car?
So when the PDL (Power Door Locks) work, are both doors open? or one or the other only open.
If both doors are shut, the PDL switches will not allow to lock/unlock?
You said no aftermarket stuff installed.. Are you the original owner? if not, how did you confirm there is no aftermarket stuff
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lofti5 (10-23-2016)
#4
Heel & Toe
Thread Starter
Questions
What year Car?
So when the PDL (Power Door Locks) work, are both doors open? or one or the other only open.
If both doors are shut, the PDL switches will not allow to lock/unlock?
You said no aftermarket stuff installed.. Are you the original owner? if not, how did you confirm there is no aftermarket stuff
What year Car?
So when the PDL (Power Door Locks) work, are both doors open? or one or the other only open.
If both doors are shut, the PDL switches will not allow to lock/unlock?
You said no aftermarket stuff installed.. Are you the original owner? if not, how did you confirm there is no aftermarket stuff
It is a 1989 with 128k miles. I am not the original owner, my wife inherited the car from her grandfather. He is says that only regular maintenace was done on it.
It is the strangest thing. Locks work fine when doors are open but when shut you can barely move them. I tried replacing the security module but no luck.
#5
Race Director
When you say hardly move, I assume manually.. hard both directions?
So so your wife's grandfather bought it new? 89 has 2 door switches/ pins. To detect an open door. I have to wonder if one is shorted.
Get someone one to help you. With both doors open, manually push I one of the door switches, seenifnyouvcan recreate the issue. One pin is towards the front of the door mounted in the jamb. Other is at the back of the door. If one of the switches pressed in causes your issues then you have a better chance of finding the issue. Try this and post back results
So so your wife's grandfather bought it new? 89 has 2 door switches/ pins. To detect an open door. I have to wonder if one is shorted.
Get someone one to help you. With both doors open, manually push I one of the door switches, seenifnyouvcan recreate the issue. One pin is towards the front of the door mounted in the jamb. Other is at the back of the door. If one of the switches pressed in causes your issues then you have a better chance of finding the issue. Try this and post back results
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lofti5 (10-23-2016)
#6
Heel & Toe
Thread Starter
When you say hardly move, I assume manually.. hard both directions?
So so your wife's grandfather bought it new? 89 has 2 door switches/ pins. To detect an open door. I have to wonder if one is shorted.
Get someone one to help you. With both doors open, manually push I one of the door switches, seenifnyouvcan recreate the issue. One pin is towards the front of the door mounted in the jamb. Other is at the back of the door. If one of the switches pressed in causes your issues then you have a better chance of finding the issue. Try this and post back results
So so your wife's grandfather bought it new? 89 has 2 door switches/ pins. To detect an open door. I have to wonder if one is shorted.
Get someone one to help you. With both doors open, manually push I one of the door switches, seenifnyouvcan recreate the issue. One pin is towards the front of the door mounted in the jamb. Other is at the back of the door. If one of the switches pressed in causes your issues then you have a better chance of finding the issue. Try this and post back results
Last edited by lofti5; 10-22-2016 at 08:50 PM.
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lofti5 (10-23-2016)
#8
Heel & Toe
Thread Starter
I think maybe I jumped to fast at your answer, I went to my GM manual and have been chasing wires all night on the diagram. If I'm reading things correctly the door ajar switch can't have anything to do with the door locks not working, it would have to be the Jam switch that plays into the TDM(UTD).???
So I'm going to retest door switches this morning and report back.The only small thing that maybe the door ajar and the right side door lock switch have is the #150 wire which is a ground
So I'm going to retest door switches this morning and report back.The only small thing that maybe the door ajar and the right side door lock switch have is the #150 wire which is a ground
#9
Race Director
Right the switches cannot, unless they are shorted in the harness. Based off of the comments that the door must be open to work has me leading to believe there could be a short somewhere
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lofti5 (10-23-2016)
#10
You never posted back to the original thread you started. What is the part # on the eBay product that you bought and installed? If you look at the 8A-130 and the 8A-133 CELL in the FSM you'll see why I mentioned the TDM. Can you make the Theft Deterrent (Forced Entry) work as designed?
You might study the Forced Entry diagnostics.
The Forced Entry diagnostics look to be very straight forward. Diagnostics for each CELL follows the diagram in the FSM and also references component locations.
You might study the Forced Entry diagnostics.
The Forced Entry diagnostics look to be very straight forward. Diagnostics for each CELL follows the diagram in the FSM and also references component locations.
Last edited by WVZR-1; 10-23-2016 at 01:26 PM.
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lofti5 (10-23-2016)
The following users liked this post:
lofti5 (10-23-2016)
#12
Heel & Toe
Thread Starter
You never posted back to the original thread you started. What is the part # on the eBay product that you bought and installed? If you look at the 8A-130 and the 8A-133 CELL in the FSM you'll see why I mentioned the TDM. Can you make the Theft Deterrent (Forced Entry) work as designed?
You might study the Forced Entry diagnostics.
The Forced Entry diagnostics look to be very straight forward. Diagnostics for each CELL follows the diagram in the FSM and also references component locations.
You might study the Forced Entry diagnostics.
The Forced Entry diagnostics look to be very straight forward. Diagnostics for each CELL follows the diagram in the FSM and also references component locations.
And yes sir I have gone through the 8a-130-2 cell, I get positive results on all accounts, the only thing I haven't tried is with the doors closed, as when I close either door the system shuts off.
And I haven't gone through all the diagnostic steps for the Forced Entry. So I have some more steps to do
#13
Heel & Toe
Thread Starter
You never posted back to the original thread you started. What is the part # on the eBay product that you bought and installed? If you look at the 8A-130 and the 8A-133 CELL in the FSM you'll see why I mentioned the TDM. Can you make the Theft Deterrent (Forced Entry) work as designed?
You might study the Forced Entry diagnostics.
The Forced Entry diagnostics look to be very straight forward. Diagnostics for each CELL follows the diagram in the FSM and also references component locations.
You might study the Forced Entry diagnostics.
The Forced Entry diagnostics look to be very straight forward. Diagnostics for each CELL follows the diagram in the FSM and also references component locations.
#14
GM#16039969 was the item I purchased TDM(UTD)
And yes sir I have gone through the 8a-130-2 cell, I get positive results on all accounts, the only thing I haven't tried is with the doors closed, as when I close either door the system shuts off.
And I haven't gone through all the diagnostic steps for the Forced Entry. So I have some more steps to do
And yes sir I have gone through the 8a-130-2 cell, I get positive results on all accounts, the only thing I haven't tried is with the doors closed, as when I close either door the system shuts off.
And I haven't gone through all the diagnostic steps for the Forced Entry. So I have some more steps to do
Take a read of 8A-133-7, it somewhat summarizes ARMING and maybe spending more time with the FE diagnostics will do you well.
*** For your particular set of circumstances and considering the car's been in the family since new maybe you do a read of the owners manual regarding the Forced Entry. That might be very useful I'd think. Do you have it? Maybe someone with it could scan and email to you if it's more than a single page. I'd maybe want it from the '89 though previous years could be very similar. I've had nothing '89 or earlier.
Last edited by WVZR-1; 10-23-2016 at 03:45 PM.
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lofti5 (10-23-2016)
#15
Heel & Toe
Thread Starter
Did that match the # from the car that you removed? I think you do the "forced entry" diagnostics and make that system work before being actually concerned with the lock functions.
Take a read of 8A-133-7, it somewhat summarizes ARMING and maybe spending more time with the FE diagnostics will do you well.
*** For your particular set of circumstances and considering the car's been in the family since new maybe you do a read of the owners manual regarding the Forced Entry. That might be very useful I'd think. Do you have it? Maybe someone with it could scan and email to you if it's more than a single page. I'd maybe want it from the '89 though previous years could be very similar. I've had nothing '89 or earlier.
Take a read of 8A-133-7, it somewhat summarizes ARMING and maybe spending more time with the FE diagnostics will do you well.
*** For your particular set of circumstances and considering the car's been in the family since new maybe you do a read of the owners manual regarding the Forced Entry. That might be very useful I'd think. Do you have it? Maybe someone with it could scan and email to you if it's more than a single page. I'd maybe want it from the '89 though previous years could be very similar. I've had nothing '89 or earlier.
after all my buying parts and everything else the problem is the #150 wire in the right door ajar switch, I put a jumper to the B terminal on the door lock switch and everything works like it should
would like to say thanks to both of you for the help, and the others that added comments, you both made me rethink the problem and found it.