C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

1994 LT1 -time for new engine mounts

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Old 12-13-2016, 10:03 AM
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69mako
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Default 1994 LT1 -time for new engine mounts

Its time. The Vette has 151K on the clock and 22 years under her belt. Time for some new engine mounts to be installed this winter during the project months.

-Who has completed this change and what tips and tricks do you have to offer?

Thanks.
Old 12-13-2016, 05:37 PM
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antfarmer2
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Why do you think they need to be replaced?
Old 12-13-2016, 06:05 PM
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TorchTarga94
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Originally Posted by antfarmer2
Why do you think they need to be replaced?
Old 12-13-2016, 07:47 PM
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Tom400CFI
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X3.

My car has more miles than yours and it's older. I don't see any reason why I need to change mine.

Now our CTS-V...the engine was sitting on the frame rails (at 28,000 miles/4 yrs old). Both "hydraulic" motor mounts were blown out (popped) and those definitely needed to be replaced.
Old 12-15-2016, 11:23 AM
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wikdwizard
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It's easy with exhaust manifolds and oil pan removed, but I would guess it's a PITA with everything in there. I would look into holding the engine up one side at a time and removing the support the lower section of the mount bolts to in order to aid access.
Old 01-08-2017, 12:40 PM
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69mako
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Originally Posted by antfarmer2
Why do you think they need to be replaced?
She has 151K miles on her and is 23 years...I thinking they are do for repleacement....but I could be wrong.
Old 01-08-2017, 01:20 PM
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wikdwizard
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My LT4 car only had 79K miles on it, and this is what they looked like. It's not a tough job, but does require some patience.

Old 01-08-2017, 01:25 PM
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69mako
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Originally Posted by wikdwizard
My LT4 car only had 79K miles on it, and this is what they looked like. It's not a tough job, but does require some patience.

Yep, thats what I am expecting to see.
Old 01-08-2017, 08:30 PM
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Lt4-396
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Do they still make hydraulic mounts for our cars or do you have to change to rubber or poly?
Old 01-09-2017, 11:50 AM
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mtwoolford
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Originally Posted by Lt4-396
Do they still make hydraulic mounts for our cars or do you have to change to rubber or poly?
there are no poly mounts for these cars

hydraulic mounts may be available. The operative word here is "may" . $$$

solid rubber mounts are readily available and FWIW checking out various websites, ricers, bimmers and porschers consider going from oem hydraulic mounts to solid rubber to be a performance upgrade.
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Old 01-15-2017, 07:07 AM
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kmillar
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Default engine mounts

I have 2 1990 6 spd corvettes. 1 with a 427 (miniram)small block, the other with a 396 (superram).

I was looking at engine mounts when I was installing the engines. I happen to talk to ZF Doc, he recommended using the stock mounts but filling the space between the rubber and metal with urethane that is used for windshield installation.

I went with his recommendation and have had no issues. The mounts have withstood the torques of my stroker engines while racing with no issues
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Old 01-15-2017, 07:12 PM
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Lt4-396
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How is going to a rubber mount a upgrade? Is it because it doesn't flex as much? I would think the hydraulic mounts would dampen more vibration?
I am curious about the rubber mounts
Old 01-16-2017, 12:58 AM
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mtwoolford
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Originally Posted by Lt4-396
How is going to a rubber mount a upgrade? Is it because it doesn't flex as much? I would think the hydraulic mounts would dampen more vibration?
I am curious about the rubber mounts
that's the theory
Old 01-16-2017, 01:05 AM
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mtwoolford
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Originally Posted by kmillar
I have 2 1990 6 spd corvettes. 1 with a 427 (miniram)small block, the other with a 396 (superram).

I was looking at engine mounts when I was installing the engines. I happen to talk to ZF Doc, he recommended using the stock mounts but filling the space between the rubber and metal with urethane that is used for windshield installation.

I went with his recommendation and have had no issues. The mounts have withstood the torques of my stroker engines while racing with no issues
there's many u tube videos of people reinforcing various stock mounts by filling voids with urethane; and I've done it myself with other cars.

I respect ZFdoc's advice; I just don't see a lot of areas to be filled on an c4 LT mount...not compared to other mounts anyway.

Last edited by mtwoolford; 01-16-2017 at 01:06 AM.
Old 01-19-2017, 10:39 AM
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anesthes
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Originally Posted by wikdwizard
It's easy with exhaust manifolds and oil pan removed, but I would guess it's a PITA with everything in there. I would look into holding the engine up one side at a time and removing the support the lower section of the mount bolts to in order to aid access.
Why remove the oil pan?

-- Joe
Old 01-19-2017, 05:36 PM
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Churchkey
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Have 4 sets of solid mounts available.
Old 01-19-2017, 05:51 PM
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WVZR-1
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Originally Posted by Churchkey
Have 4 sets of solid mounts available.
L98 & early or LT1/LT4/LT5 later mounts?

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To 1994 LT1 -time for new engine mounts

Old 01-19-2017, 09:12 PM
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Churchkey
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Originally Posted by WVZR-1
L98 & early or LT1/LT4/LT5 later mounts?
Apologies I should have been specific.

Application is LT1 - LT4 - LT5
Old 01-20-2017, 01:21 AM
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wikdwizard
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Originally Posted by anesthes
Why remove the oil pan?

-- Joe
I didn't mean to imply that it was necessary, but in my case it was already out and made access much simpler.

I did another set earlier this week, but once again there was nothing in the way other than the block. To do the job with stock manifolds there, and only removing the two fasteners for the mount itself, the trick would be getting the engine high enough without crunching the wiring harness around the bellhousing. The proper precuations will have to be taken regardless of exact method, such as removing the radiator hoses, checking for exhaust clearances, etc. If there is not enough clearance gained that way, the three bolts fastening the mount bracket to the block would have to be removed.

Last edited by wikdwizard; 01-20-2017 at 01:30 AM.
Old 01-20-2017, 08:22 AM
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anesthes
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Originally Posted by wikdwizard
I didn't mean to imply that it was necessary, but in my case it was already out and made access much simpler.

I did another set earlier this week, but once again there was nothing in the way other than the block. To do the job with stock manifolds there, and only removing the two fasteners for the mount itself, the trick would be getting the engine high enough without crunching the wiring harness around the bellhousing. The proper precuations will have to be taken regardless of exact method, such as removing the radiator hoses, checking for exhaust clearances, etc. If there is not enough clearance gained that way, the three bolts fastening the mount bracket to the block would have to be removed.
My motor mounts are ok, but the freeze plug behind the left motor mount is leaking so I basically have to do the same job to replace the freeze plug.

-- Joe


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