Transmission Cooler Install w/ B4P Optional Fan
12-22-2016, 09:55 AM
#41
Race Director
12-22-2016, 07:32 PM
#42
Racer
Thread Starter
Don't hide on me now! We're so close to building my perfect track car!!! 
So do I need an in line fuse on the ground wire or is running a wire straight from the switch to pin A and straight from the switch to pin F safe?
I just left Wally World with 18 gauge wire, connectors and a two post toggle switch.
So do I need an in line fuse on the ground wire or is running a wire straight from the switch to pin A and straight from the switch to pin F safe?
I just left Wally World with 18 gauge wire, connectors and a two post toggle switch.
12-22-2016, 07:48 PM
#43
Team Owner
Pro Mechanic
Again... 
12-22-2016, 07:50 PM
#44
Team Owner
Pro Mechanic
NOW I could see you! 
You shouldn't need a fuse as the ALDL wiring should already be a fuse'd circuit.
I'll be interested to hear how this works. I wasn't aware that you could jump two wires in the ALDL connector and command converter lock. If so....that is super easy/cool.
.
I'll be interested to hear how this works. I wasn't aware that you could jump two wires in the ALDL connector and command converter lock. If so....that is super easy/cool.
.
Last edited by Tom400CFI; 12-22-2016 at 08:07 PM.
12-23-2016, 07:13 AM
#45
Drifting
I can't comment on the aux fan as i never had one on my car.
However i mounted a large trans cooler in front of the radiator, what i did was to take the fiberglass lower housing that holds the radiator and condenser in place, i used some angle aluminium stock cut to fit and installed it sandwiched between that lower housing and the rubber duct that mounts to it.
From there i installed cross braces with more aluminium stock and riveted it together.
Then using the frame i created i mounted my cooler and then installed a fan i bought from summit racing on it.
I also have a power steering cooler mounted there as well.
So far it has been working very well.
However i mounted a large trans cooler in front of the radiator, what i did was to take the fiberglass lower housing that holds the radiator and condenser in place, i used some angle aluminium stock cut to fit and installed it sandwiched between that lower housing and the rubber duct that mounts to it.
From there i installed cross braces with more aluminium stock and riveted it together.
Then using the frame i created i mounted my cooler and then installed a fan i bought from summit racing on it.
I also have a power steering cooler mounted there as well.
So far it has been working very well.
12-23-2016, 08:46 AM
#46
Race Director
I have the Trans Go -3 "Stick Shift" trans kit in mine now and am very pleased with it. I had a shop install that one as it's extensive after losing the 3/4 shift again. The stock trans I installed a simple B&M kit myself and install was pretty easy. I never use fourth at the track. I have been tempted by changing the 3.07 diff gear but then would need fourth for high speed on the straights.
12-23-2016, 09:09 AM
#47
Racer
Thread Starter
Well sh*t...
Looks like I'm back to square one again. I don't want to burn up my clutch. Perhaps I will just go with a trans cooler, synthetic fluid and a gauge and see how that works for me.
I'm heading to the garage now to get the big book of receipts to see if it says which shift kit was installed.
Looks like I'm back to square one again. I don't want to burn up my clutch. Perhaps I will just go with a trans cooler, synthetic fluid and a gauge and see how that works for me.
I'm heading to the garage now to get the big book of receipts to see if it says which shift kit was installed.
Last edited by HandsomeMike; 12-23-2016 at 09:10 AM.
12-23-2016, 09:35 AM
#48
Team Owner
Pro Mechanic
You're not going to burn up your clutch in 3rd gear.
Great info. Thanks for the correction! 
I highly doubt that he'll be in 4th gear at all, on the track. Shouldn't be. I can hit 120 in my car in 1:1 (4th for me, 3rd for the OP) and that is with a 3.45 rear, which he has something numerically lower, I'd bet. Only time he should be in 4th/OD is during his cool down lap.
I totally agree about the manual valve body.
.
Negative, Ghost Rider.
There can be no lockup in 1st because there is no "Converter Clutch signal oil" until the trans shifts into 2nd. When the trans shifts into 2nd, TCC will engage at the same time if the switch is ON. If you desire, the lockup switch can be left on at all times. The engine will not stall with the switch on when stopped, because the trans downshifts into first, and no more TC signal oil, so the TCC disengages.
There can be no lockup in 1st because there is no "Converter Clutch signal oil" until the trans shifts into 2nd. When the trans shifts into 2nd, TCC will engage at the same time if the switch is ON. If you desire, the lockup switch can be left on at all times. The engine will not stall with the switch on when stopped, because the trans downshifts into first, and no more TC signal oil, so the TCC disengages.
You may not like the acceleration in 4th with the converter locked. The stock setup disengages TCC with about 50-60% TPS for better acceleration in 4th. If you find the car drives better with the TPS-controlled disengagement in 4th, you can add internal switching to the valve body to allow control from your lockup switch in 2nd and 3rd, but ECM controlled in 4th. There are 4 terminals in the case connector, at least one is vacant. Use it for the additional wire.
There is also an issue with the converter clutch having adequate holding power in 4th. The torque loading goes up considerably in 4th. Think of peddling your 10-speed up a hill in a high gear. A big heavy guy on the pedals can break parts. With the stock setup, TCC is disengaged at higher throttles. With your lockup switch, the TC clutch may slip under high loads, particularly in 4th at triple digit speeds.
There is also an issue with the converter clutch having adequate holding power in 4th. The torque loading goes up considerably in 4th. Think of peddling your 10-speed up a hill in a high gear. A big heavy guy on the pedals can break parts. With the stock setup, TCC is disengaged at higher throttles. With your lockup switch, the TC clutch may slip under high loads, particularly in 4th at triple digit speeds.
I totally agree about the manual valve body.
.
Last edited by Tom400CFI; 12-23-2016 at 01:01 PM.
12-23-2016, 09:58 AM
#49
Race Director
I priced manual valve bodies and a shift kit doing the same things are much less cost. NCM is a lower speed track than Road America from what I know of it. I get just about 150 MPH on the straights staying in 3rd at my rev limit of 6500. Stock D36 3.07 gear.
12-23-2016, 11:02 AM
#50
Racer
Thread Starter
I'll only be hitting maybe 100-105 on the back and middle straights and 90's on the front straight. The rest of the track is 40-60 mph corners for my car.
So if I'm only in 2nd and 3rd on track, is the stress on the clutch going to be an issue? I was really hoping that just doing the TCC lockup switch would be the answer to my problems being as its an easy mod to do. That and watching a trans temp gauge.
I am going to throw this scenario out to the C4 road course folks in the Autocross&RR forum also.
So if I'm only in 2nd and 3rd on track, is the stress on the clutch going to be an issue? I was really hoping that just doing the TCC lockup switch would be the answer to my problems being as its an easy mod to do. That and watching a trans temp gauge.
I am going to throw this scenario out to the C4 road course folks in the Autocross&RR forum also.
Last edited by HandsomeMike; 12-23-2016 at 11:07 AM.
12-23-2016, 11:21 AM
#51
Race Director
As first steps those are great! Fit the best and largest cooler. If it is not plumbed through the radiator still it will need a fan. I would not worry about stress on the lockup for what you are doing.
12-23-2016, 11:28 AM
#52
Racer
Thread Starter
I just remembered that I left the car in D through all the track sessions, so it cant shift into 4th anyway. Only 1-3, but it'll never downshift to 1st, meaning if I leave it in D, I'll only being using 2 and 3 and TCC lockup is not an issue on the clutch. Installing the switch!
Sometimes I just have to say it out loud...
Sometimes I just have to say it out loud...
12-23-2016, 12:09 PM
#53
Drifting
I had a chat with FTI about using converter lockup as a final gear.
As I understood it, A single clutched converter was not designed for use at WOT and it would damage the clutch.
However there are other converter types that have double and triple clutches that would hold up.
My question involved a setting in my ECM (ebl flash) that forced converter lockup at a specified speed, no amount of TPS will unlock.
As I understood it, A single clutched converter was not designed for use at WOT and it would damage the clutch.
However there are other converter types that have double and triple clutches that would hold up.
My question involved a setting in my ECM (ebl flash) that forced converter lockup at a specified speed, no amount of TPS will unlock.
12-23-2016, 01:03 PM
#54
Team Owner
Pro Mechanic
12-23-2016, 01:49 PM
#55
Race Director
Beware of any downshifts mid corner if your shift kit doesn't hold gear.
Edit, shorter lower speed tracks made much more heat. I had to skip some sessions at Blackhawk farms without cooling between sessions.
Last edited by Aardwolf; 12-23-2016 at 01:50 PM.
12-24-2016, 02:29 AM
#57
Race Director
I'll only be hitting maybe 100-105 on the back and middle straights and 90's on the front straight. The rest of the track is 40-60 mph corners for my car.
So if I'm only in 2nd and 3rd on track, is the stress on the clutch going to be an issue? I was really hoping that just doing the TCC lockup switch would be the answer to my problems being as its an easy mod to do. That and watching a trans temp gauge.
I am going to throw this scenario out to the C4 road course folks in the Autocross&RR forum also.
So if I'm only in 2nd and 3rd on track, is the stress on the clutch going to be an issue? I was really hoping that just doing the TCC lockup switch would be the answer to my problems being as its an easy mod to do. That and watching a trans temp gauge.
I am going to throw this scenario out to the C4 road course folks in the Autocross&RR forum also.
12-24-2016, 09:29 PM
#58
I'd get a big assed radiator, mount it in the rear in the spare tire holder area, parallel to the floor of the rear tire holder floor (basically laying almost flat). Then I'd eliminate the "cooler" in the radiator and plumb all trans cooling through your LARGE, rear cooler.
12-27-2016, 06:49 PM
#59
Burning Brakes
Years ago I added a rocker switch to turn off the torque converter. I don't remember off hand but; a member told me to use the the wires going to brake switch. (I will have to look) I just mounted the switch and it has worked ever since.
just my experience.
12-28-2016, 06:24 PM
#60
Racer
Thread Starter
For the life of me I cannot find a sheet of hard, black plastic to use to mount my trans temp gauge and tcc lockup switch. I tried Lowe's, HD and Hobby Lobby. I think I may just get a sheet of sheet metal and mount everything in that.
Question: will having electronics (trans temp gauge, toggle switch, AC/heat control head) mounted in metal be an issue? As you guys know, I'm not an electrician but I do know metal conducts electricity.
The dash of my car is becoming more stripped down and bare bones by the day. I suddenly don't care about appearance anymore.
On a side note, I finished replacing my U joints yesterday. It's so nice not to have the clink noise when driving and heavy clunk when shifting into reverse/forward. One of the caps was full of dust from the needle bearings not having lube and disintegrating. All u joints hadn't been replaced since 93 according to the service records and 3 of the 4 were definitely worn to hell and 1 was absolute toast. Took 3 hours per half shaft.
Trans temp gauge, Motul 600 fluid and speed bleeders will be here in the next day or two! Still researching synthetic ATF.
Question: will having electronics (trans temp gauge, toggle switch, AC/heat control head) mounted in metal be an issue? As you guys know, I'm not an electrician but I do know metal conducts electricity.
The dash of my car is becoming more stripped down and bare bones by the day. I suddenly don't care about appearance anymore.
On a side note, I finished replacing my U joints yesterday. It's so nice not to have the clink noise when driving and heavy clunk when shifting into reverse/forward. One of the caps was full of dust from the needle bearings not having lube and disintegrating. All u joints hadn't been replaced since 93 according to the service records and 3 of the 4 were definitely worn to hell and 1 was absolute toast. Took 3 hours per half shaft.
Trans temp gauge, Motul 600 fluid and speed bleeders will be here in the next day or two! Still researching synthetic ATF.