What 6 Speed transmission
#1
5th Gear
Thread Starter
What 6 Speed transmission
I just recently got my first corvette its a 1993. I got a good deal on it but it doesn't have a transmission. My question is what would be a good 6 Speed manual transmission to put in this car? Thanks.
#2
Your "good deal" might NOT be as good as you suspected!! You need to explain more specifically maybe your situation.
#3
5th Gear
Thread Starter
It is missing the transmission. It is difficult to move without it. What other specifics do you need be more than happy to provide to the best of my knowledge?
#6
Burning Brakes
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I believe I have seen other threads on here were they used other manual trans but you would have to do a search, I just wanted to clear up that it was a manual to begin with, that should make it a lot easier to do the swap if you want to go with something different.
#7
How much of the original 6-speed support items are still with the car? Clutch assy, slave, bell housing, ladder, driveshaft, etc?
I think the ZF trans is the only economically feasible route to go for a 6 speed in your '93 Corvette. It originally came with a blue tag ZF, but either blue tag or black tag from a L-98, LT1 or LT4 will bolt right into place.
I think the ZF trans is the only economically feasible route to go for a 6 speed in your '93 Corvette. It originally came with a blue tag ZF, but either blue tag or black tag from a L-98, LT1 or LT4 will bolt right into place.
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johnsonmark151 (01-13-2017)
#8
5th Gear
Thread Starter
How much of the original 6-speed support items are still with the car? Clutch assy, slave, bell housing, ladder, driveshaft, etc?
I think the ZF trans is the only economically feasible route to go for a 6 speed in your '93 Corvette. It originally came with a blue tag ZF, but either blue tag or black tag from a L-98, LT1 or LT4 will bolt right into place.
I think the ZF trans is the only economically feasible route to go for a 6 speed in your '93 Corvette. It originally came with a blue tag ZF, but either blue tag or black tag from a L-98, LT1 or LT4 will bolt right into place.
#9
Le Mans Master
The ZF will be the easiest to replace instead of converting to another transmission type. The ZF is a very good transmission that is quite strong so it can take some abuse, and has a wide spread of ratio's to help both performance and economy.
There are some differences between ZF's.
'89 to '93 used a different front shaft guide collar (I'm not sure of the part name) than the '94 to '96's used. They are a different diameter so require a matching throw out bearing.
There are two types of ZF's. The Black tag is the earlier version from '89-'93 and have straighter cut gears. The later Blue tag from '94-'96 has more helical cut gears. The early ZF's are slightly stronger torque rating, but can make a little more noise.
The shifters are different too. The early '89-'94 have a reverse lift ring to engage reverse gear. The '95-'96 have a "crash through" design that does not require a lift ring, but just takes a little more effort to push it into reverse.
Either an early or late one can be used, just make sure you get the right parts to make everything match.
I have swapped between the early and late and they both will work fine.
There is actually another type of ZF also. The ZR1 ZF 6 speeds have a longer input shaft and will not work in an L98/LT1/LT4. I am not sure, but I believe the early/late differences apply to the ZR1 transmissions also.
Good luck.
There are some differences between ZF's.
'89 to '93 used a different front shaft guide collar (I'm not sure of the part name) than the '94 to '96's used. They are a different diameter so require a matching throw out bearing.
There are two types of ZF's. The Black tag is the earlier version from '89-'93 and have straighter cut gears. The later Blue tag from '94-'96 has more helical cut gears. The early ZF's are slightly stronger torque rating, but can make a little more noise.
The shifters are different too. The early '89-'94 have a reverse lift ring to engage reverse gear. The '95-'96 have a "crash through" design that does not require a lift ring, but just takes a little more effort to push it into reverse.
Either an early or late one can be used, just make sure you get the right parts to make everything match.
I have swapped between the early and late and they both will work fine.
There is actually another type of ZF also. The ZR1 ZF 6 speeds have a longer input shaft and will not work in an L98/LT1/LT4. I am not sure, but I believe the early/late differences apply to the ZR1 transmissions also.
Good luck.
Last edited by QCVette; 01-13-2017 at 04:44 PM.
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johnsonmark151 (01-13-2017)
#10
Melting Slicks
https://philadelphia.craigslist.org/pts/5901998855.html
https://southjersey.craigslist.org/pts/5938183650.html
here are 2 I saw on Craigslist
https://southjersey.craigslist.org/pts/5938183650.html
here are 2 I saw on Craigslist
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johnsonmark151 (01-13-2017)
#11
OP - I believe the most important thing for you to do is share your LOCATION and maybe explain more about the car. Was it torn apart and weren't enough funds to repair? Parts lost stolen or whatever! If there are any of the parts still with the car in a pile, a box or loose it would be good to have that pile of parts and inventory what you've got and what is maybe still attached to the car.
LOCATION
There's some misinformation in this thread regarding Blues and Blacks - you need to be sure and confirm two dimensions and pieces of information on the transmission. An L98/LT1/LT4 will have an input shaft length of 159.5mm tip of shaft to the case mating surface to the clutch housing. You want to measure the diameter of the input shaft "guide tube" the T/O collar rides on, early is 1.373 +/- (90 - 93) I believe and the later is 1.305 +/- ('94+). Also you would like all of the information on the ZF TAG on the right side of the case. The important one is the TRANSMISSION PARTS List. It will be 1052-000-032, 36, 44, 46, 084 or 089 - I don't believe any of the GM service transmission had anything other than these #'s also.
You would want to look particularly hard for the FLYWHEEL !!!!
That will generally ID it's original spec(application)
LOCATION
There's some misinformation in this thread regarding Blues and Blacks - you need to be sure and confirm two dimensions and pieces of information on the transmission. An L98/LT1/LT4 will have an input shaft length of 159.5mm tip of shaft to the case mating surface to the clutch housing. You want to measure the diameter of the input shaft "guide tube" the T/O collar rides on, early is 1.373 +/- (90 - 93) I believe and the later is 1.305 +/- ('94+). Also you would like all of the information on the ZF TAG on the right side of the case. The important one is the TRANSMISSION PARTS List. It will be 1052-000-032, 36, 44, 46, 084 or 089 - I don't believe any of the GM service transmission had anything other than these #'s also.
You would want to look particularly hard for the FLYWHEEL !!!!
That will generally ID it's original spec(application)
Last edited by WVZR-1; 01-13-2017 at 06:42 PM.
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johnsonmark151 (01-13-2017)
#12
If I had bought a c4 without a Trans I would spend just a bit more and put a t56 into it or a tk0600 but of course I would be doing all the work. Don't get me wrong I absolutely love my zf6's but if you don't know how to rebuild them yourself when it comes time to do figure $3000-$4500 this is the exact reason I pick up every zf6 or any parts I possible can and I might use 3 bad transmissions to make one perfect Trans but again I do it myself so no labor charge.
When the hydraulics and the Trans is working good it is a fabulous trans, but when things start to go start saving $$$.
When the hydraulics and the Trans is working good it is a fabulous trans, but when things start to go start saving $$$.
#13
5th Gear
Thread Starter
If I had bought a c4 without a Trans I would spend just a bit more and put a t56 into it or a tk0600 but of course I would be doing all the work. Don't get me wrong I absolutely love my zf6's but if you don't know how to rebuild them yourself when it comes time to do figure $3000-$4500 this is the exact reason I pick up every zf6 or any parts I possible can and I might use 3 bad transmissions to make one perfect Trans but again I do it myself so no labor charge.
When the hydraulics and the Trans is working good it is a fabulous trans, but when things start to go start saving $$$.
When the hydraulics and the Trans is working good it is a fabulous trans, but when things start to go start saving $$$.
#14
Race Director
Let's talk about the elephant in the room. The OP needs to know the flywheel is different for a stick vs an automatic. And, that the original flywheels -- for ZF6's -- are out of production. That's why LOOKING for one was pointed out early.
If you never HEARD the car running before dissection, then you don't even know the state of the flywheel. If the seal is broken, it's worthless. Otherwise, you're probably OK. If the seal is broken, a conversion to the options (listed 2 posts above) might be worth considering. That's because they don't need the DMF (dual mass flywheel). The DMF was implemented to minimize (eliminate) rattle in the ZF6. On the positive side, a good working ZF6 car is stronger than it's automatic counterpart because they come with a bigger rear end AND the transmission is strong. It was originally sourced from Germany and used in a bus. As such, it's big. The downside is the lack of parts support in it's 20+yr post production years. Unless lucky, you'll be dealing strictly in salvage -- but, then again, that's where you seem to be starting!!! LOL
You never replied back with what guts are still present in your [potential] basket case. Learning is good. Starting with something that's a mountain might not be the best first lesson.
If you never HEARD the car running before dissection, then you don't even know the state of the flywheel. If the seal is broken, it's worthless. Otherwise, you're probably OK. If the seal is broken, a conversion to the options (listed 2 posts above) might be worth considering. That's because they don't need the DMF (dual mass flywheel). The DMF was implemented to minimize (eliminate) rattle in the ZF6. On the positive side, a good working ZF6 car is stronger than it's automatic counterpart because they come with a bigger rear end AND the transmission is strong. It was originally sourced from Germany and used in a bus. As such, it's big. The downside is the lack of parts support in it's 20+yr post production years. Unless lucky, you'll be dealing strictly in salvage -- but, then again, that's where you seem to be starting!!! LOL
You never replied back with what guts are still present in your [potential] basket case. Learning is good. Starting with something that's a mountain might not be the best first lesson.
Last edited by GREGGPENN; 01-13-2017 at 07:42 PM.
#15
OP - less than 40 miles from you is Just Corvettes in St Charles Mo, they likely have everything and anything that you could need. I've had very few dealings with them but many years ago the owner, a manager there and I shared some very interesting thoughts regarding C4 Corvettes.
I've heard good and bad regarding dealings with them but dependent upon "attitude" and knowledge I'd think a person could do reasonably well. An unknowing person that thinks they know could certainly get scalded! I'd think if you walked in with a very specific list, some snapshots and explain you've likely done something you shouldn't have they might have some mercy!!
Does this car run and have you heard it run?
This I'd think certainly wasn't a WISE BUY!!! We of course don't know the terms of the sale so maybe the tricks on us. A new poster? Maybe the trick has already been played!!
Post some snapshots of the car and let some share their thoughts. I'd likely pass but many will without doubt.
If you traded a "blown up piece of lawn equipment" maybe you've done well!!
I've heard good and bad regarding dealings with them but dependent upon "attitude" and knowledge I'd think a person could do reasonably well. An unknowing person that thinks they know could certainly get scalded! I'd think if you walked in with a very specific list, some snapshots and explain you've likely done something you shouldn't have they might have some mercy!!
Does this car run and have you heard it run?
This I'd think certainly wasn't a WISE BUY!!! We of course don't know the terms of the sale so maybe the tricks on us. A new poster? Maybe the trick has already been played!!
Post some snapshots of the car and let some share their thoughts. I'd likely pass but many will without doubt.
If you traded a "blown up piece of lawn equipment" maybe you've done well!!
#16
Le Mans Master
OP, I'm not far from you (Cottleville). You are welcome to look at my car if you need to identify parts or see how things fit together.
We need to repeat the question about what else is missing besides that actual transmission. Here's what we need to know:
As noted, if you're not sure what you exactly have, then post some pics and we can probably figure it out.
If it was originally a 6sp car and still has many of those related parts, then it would be a lot simpler to just buy a ZF and be done with it. This is especially true if you have a usable OE clutch. Any other option will require some fab work and adaptation. If this is an automatic car, or literally everything listed above is missing, then you have more options I suppose.
I would strongly recommend a google search for feedback on Just Corvettes before I did any business with them. Caveat emptor and all that.
We need to repeat the question about what else is missing besides that actual transmission. Here's what we need to know:
- Is the car originally a 6sp or automatic?
- If it was originally a 6sp, what related parts are still there and in good working condition? Specifically, here are items you need to verify:
- flywheel
- clutch
- bellhousing, fork, and pivot stud
- slave and master cylinder
- c-beam
If it was originally a 6sp car and still has many of those related parts, then it would be a lot simpler to just buy a ZF and be done with it. This is especially true if you have a usable OE clutch. Any other option will require some fab work and adaptation. If this is an automatic car, or literally everything listed above is missing, then you have more options I suppose.
I would strongly recommend a google search for feedback on Just Corvettes before I did any business with them. Caveat emptor and all that.
#17
OP, I'm not far from you (Cottleville). You are welcome to look at my car if you need to identify parts or see how things fit together.
We need to repeat the question about what else is missing besides that actual transmission. Here's what we need to know:
As noted, if you're not sure what you exactly have, then post some pics and we can probably figure it out.
We need to repeat the question about what else is missing besides that actual transmission. Here's what we need to know:
- Is the car originally a 6sp or automatic?
- If it was originally a 6sp, what related parts are still there and in good working condition? Specifically, here are items you need to verify:
- flywheel
- clutch
- bellhousing, fork, and pivot stud
- slave and master cylinder
- c-beam
Your other concern might be this. I'd suspect this is very possible!
Was this car "cannibalized" perhaps for the M6-ZF and the D44 rear axle and maybe a D36 rear axle just stuffed under it to make it a "roller". If there are no parts in boxes or available I'd suspect this is the case.
If user "MM" would check it for you visually for a meal and a few chilly or maybe even a "for hire" could be money well spent. Maybe cut the losses and "move on".
Crawl under the rear bumper and see if you can ID which of these 2 rear axle assemblies are in the car. That I believe could answer all of you initial concerns. Maybe it has resale value - maybe NOT! If this were an M6 car the rear "if not cannibalized" should be like the model 44 (lower) in the image. The image shows both bolt patterns of the cover. If the "top center bolt" is there and it looks like the upper image then ... time to rethink me thinks!
Last edited by WVZR-1; 01-14-2017 at 10:11 AM.
#18
Drifting
If you're just grocery getting with the car, I would put a ZF back in. Don't worry about the OEM flywheel if it is no longer available. You can go with a Mcleod or another aftermarket flywheel and clutch and still use the original slave cylinder that pulls instead of pushes.
If you can't find one in a junk yard there is a source out of Arizona. I believe the business name is ZF Doctor or something like that. He rebuilds old ZF trannies.
If you don't want to go with a ZF tranny, you can get a Tremec TKO or a T56 with the C4 conversion kit from Hurst Driveline Conversions. The conversions are kinda pricey. I would stay with the ZF, it is a very stout tranny.
If you can't find one in a junk yard there is a source out of Arizona. I believe the business name is ZF Doctor or something like that. He rebuilds old ZF trannies.
If you don't want to go with a ZF tranny, you can get a Tremec TKO or a T56 with the C4 conversion kit from Hurst Driveline Conversions. The conversions are kinda pricey. I would stay with the ZF, it is a very stout tranny.
Last edited by Nokones; 01-14-2017 at 09:17 AM.