Potential Motor build?
02-02-2017, 05:57 PM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Potential Motor build?
So I've got a 96 lt1, procharged, full exhaust, msd, shift kit and long story short it spun a ton of bearings so I pulled the motor but in a time crunch I had to reinstall it with some problems still there. SO.. I'm most likely going to be pulling the motor on it again once summer comes around. I am looking to put a sick sounding choppy cam, something like the Comp Cams K07-468-8... I'm just looking at what type of heads/ head work I would need to effectively tune the car with the choppy cam and the procharger.. Do you guys think it would be worth spending the money to go 383 while I'm at it? What type of numbers are people making with a 383 built like I'm thinking about building?
02-04-2017, 11:07 PM
#2
I'd go 396 for the money. Can you post a better pic of your air box. That looks like really nice work. TIA
02-05-2017, 07:30 AM
#3
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Sep 2008
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IMHO Blower motors don't like choppy cams with a lot of valve overlap. Suggest a cam with a LSA that is close to stock with more lift.
More cubes + turn up the blower may be the way to go.
There is a C4 Forced induction / nitrous section maybe ask there.
Good luck
More cubes + turn up the blower may be the way to go.
There is a C4 Forced induction / nitrous section maybe ask there.
Good luck
02-06-2017, 06:35 PM
#4
Instructor
Thread Starter
Yea I know they dont end up liking choppy cams, but if it is a small decrease in power or what not I might find it worth it for the sound :P and I thought there was a forced induction area, but under c4 it is not there.. no idea where to find that section 
02-06-2017, 07:48 PM
#5
Drifting
C4 fi/nitrous section got the ax.
As we told you on C4modified that cam will not work well with the blower.
What problems does the motor still have that you put it in?
383 allows for a better crown than a 396. Get the thickest pistons you can and go 383 with a forged crank/rods/pistons. Find a tuner.
Heads all depends on the combo. Anything less than 600hp stock ported castings will work.
As we told you on C4modified that cam will not work well with the blower.
What problems does the motor still have that you put it in?
383 allows for a better crown than a 396. Get the thickest pistons you can and go 383 with a forged crank/rods/pistons. Find a tuner.
Heads all depends on the combo. Anything less than 600hp stock ported castings will work.
The following users liked this post:
Charles.rogers1 (02-07-2017)
02-07-2017, 05:41 PM
#6
Instructor
Thread Starter
C4 fi/nitrous section got the ax.
As we told you on C4modified that cam will not work well with the blower.
What problems does the motor still have that you put it in?
383 allows for a better crown than a 396. Get the thickest pistons you can and go 383 with a forged crank/rods/pistons. Find a tuner.
Heads all depends on the combo. Anything less than 600hp stock ported castings will work.
As we told you on C4modified that cam will not work well with the blower.
What problems does the motor still have that you put it in?
383 allows for a better crown than a 396. Get the thickest pistons you can and go 383 with a forged crank/rods/pistons. Find a tuner.
Heads all depends on the combo. Anything less than 600hp stock ported castings will work.
Thinking about getting the car running and run it for the season and go from there, knowing stock ported heads will handle 600 is a nice thing to know as I dont the p1 will push toto far passed that?
02-07-2017, 10:16 PM
#7
Drifting
Yeah that P1 will be crying to get past 650 on the ragged edge way out of the efficiency range.
Get the heads ported by LE or AI and have a blower cam ground for the setup. A 383 will fit the bill nicely and you can move the cr to 9.5-10 for a 93 pump gas setup.
Get the heads ported by LE or AI and have a blower cam ground for the setup. A 383 will fit the bill nicely and you can move the cr to 9.5-10 for a 93 pump gas setup.
02-08-2017, 10:43 AM
#8
Don't know your budget but Golen engines offers a fully built LT1 383 promising 700+ HP if you add about 14psi boost for around $7500. Seems high but when I started pricing all parts to build a fully forged 383 it came out higher.
02-09-2017, 06:13 PM
#9
Instructor
Thread Starter
LE or AI? what psi does the p1 start to become useless at? would forged + and a 93+ tune be good enough for a good amount of psi or sound I go meth for extra protection you think?
02-09-2017, 06:15 PM
#10
Instructor
Thread Starter
Yea its pricey when its one purchase, less killer when you can buy parts at a some what slower pace.. but for sure building a motor could hit that pretty quick! haha! I'm looking into all options tho, car hasnt been on the road in a looooong time, so I might end up just getting it on the road this season and going big over the winter once I've enjoyed it a weeeeebit
02-09-2017, 08:57 PM
#11
Drifting
Fuel all depends on if you are getting knock retard from high intake air temps. No knock timing retard let her eat. My car with meth makes the same power without. I use it for a safety net and to keep my temps consistent if my IC becomes heat soaked.
The P1 can spit out 15lbs but the iat's would be high. They seem to do well around 11-12lbs.
02-10-2017, 06:31 PM
#12
Instructor
Thread Starter
Lloyd Eliot and Advanced Inductions. Both have nice port CNC programs and cams that match.
Fuel all depends on if you are getting knock retard from high intake air temps. No knock timing retard let her eat. My car with meth makes the same power without. I use it for a safety net and to keep my temps consistent if my IC becomes heat soaked.
The P1 can spit out 15lbs but the iat's would be high. They seem to do well around 11-12lbs.
Fuel all depends on if you are getting knock retard from high intake air temps. No knock timing retard let her eat. My car with meth makes the same power without. I use it for a safety net and to keep my temps consistent if my IC becomes heat soaked.
The P1 can spit out 15lbs but the iat's would be high. They seem to do well around 11-12lbs.
I might as well hookup a meth kit cause I have one laying around from a different car lmfao! and that sounds great cause its got an 11lb pulley on it now I believe
The following 2 users liked this post by Charles.rogers1:
BV85 (02-12-2017),
mtwoolford (02-12-2017)
02-12-2017, 05:19 PM
#14
Drifting
How much boost you make will depend how efficient your setup is and how high you spin your motor.
A p1 on a 350 will make more boost than on my 400 with awesome parts everywhere. Boost is just a measure of restriction.
Those bearings are ****.
A p1 on a 350 will make more boost than on my 400 with awesome parts everywhere. Boost is just a measure of restriction.
Those bearings are ****.
02-12-2017, 06:14 PM
#15
Melting Slicks
a funny thing. I'm getting the parts together for a 350 build with 6 inch rods and a forged crank, and what I discovered was that there are WAY more aftermarket parts, especially forged crankshafts, for a 383 build with a 3.75 inch crankshaft than there are for a 350 with a 3.48 inch crankshaft. Go figure.
Once you go beyond a garden variety, trying to use everything you can from the original engine, a 383 build won't cost that much more, and in fact may cost less, than a similar high end 350 build.
Once you go beyond a garden variety, trying to use everything you can from the original engine, a 383 build won't cost that much more, and in fact may cost less, than a similar high end 350 build.
02-12-2017, 08:44 PM
#16
Instructor
Thread Starter
Yea the last motor spun something like 3 main bearings and 2 rod bearings or something ridiculoussss! and ahh okay, def want keep everythin down to a relatively safe level so I dont end up popping another motor haha..
mtwoolford yea there deff seems to be a good amount of 383 kits out there.. almost seems worth it to go that route over a highend 350
mtwoolford yea there deff seems to be a good amount of 383 kits out there.. almost seems worth it to go that route over a highend 350
02-13-2017, 05:33 PM
#17
Instructor
Thread Starter
Do I need to look for an aftermarket tuning option like an fmu or can the stock ecu be fully tuned for what would need to be changed being a boosted 383?