RPOL71

Cranks but I have no spark. New distributor, no codes, I bought a rebuilt 88999195 computer but I have not found a Tech 2 to program it yet. But, if I jump the diagnostic the computer reads good. I am using a 50HZ signal generator but that has been working in the car for a year with no problems. I am almost ready to go to a manifold and Holley 600 with a 1977 HEI. At least I can drive it. The dash works and shows information normally. Just no spark. New Accel coil, Tried 4 other coils also. All same results. Tried multiple ignition modules, finally bought a new distributor, still nuthin. Ground by the Drivers side I will check next again but I am losing hope.

s carter

Just a quick long shot in dark, did you put a new Cap on and possibly not bring over the ground Bridge under the Coil to the new cap? and is the rotor moving when cranked. Are we safe to Assume that you did Confirm Voltage at the Coil Wire, Also try with Tach disconnected.

RPOL71

I did put in a ground strap under the coil. It was a kinda crappy one the last time around but I had done that job 4 other times with various coils. Some with ground wire and some with ground strap but it is an idea with the newest coil. Cap is a brass type made by Ecklind. Same as an Accell but all I could get in Salt Lake. Broken cam would be a reason. Or timing chain. It started acting up going up a steep grade called Parleys Canyon. Pulled over but it restarted and I made it to Park City and back to Salt Lake, then that was that. I will look at a broken cam scenario. I've been aching to put in a 383 that I put together last summer. Just need an excuse....and an aluminum dual mass flywheel.

billschroeder5842

Once restarted, how did it run? If the car made it home (but has not run since) I'm not thinking it could be the cam.

Since you replaced the distributor are you SURE you have the cylinders lined up correctly? If you are a gear tooth off, your car wont run.

s carter

When I mention the Ground Bridge this is a sample of what they look like.

RPOL71

I did put in a ground bridge. I have confirmed power to the pink wire. I have eliminated a grounded out tachometer as a possibility. I have not eliminated a camshaft. I did break a cam shaft in half in a 1967 Mustang 289 car in the 80's. My 1970 1/2 Z28 did have a grounded out tach once also in the 80's. The ignition of my 1967 corvette 427 car shorted out at an auto cross event when the Head Light relay failed (that took me a while to figure out). The only thing I have left is maybe a grounding problem at that block position on the drivers side or the computer is failed but wont tell. To address the 1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2 issue. Even if I was a tooth off on the distributor I would still get a spark that the timing light would pick up and flash. Car wouldn't start but the timing light would flash.

yd328

Someone correct me if I am wrong, its been a while since I worked on a L98. I don't think the computer controls the actual spark. The distributor (control module) does send a signal to the computer to fire the injectors and timing advance only.
Are the injectors firing?

Gary

RPOL71

HMM, I did check the Vats signal generator and it was sending out the 50hz signal. I have not checked the injectors but I did spray some ether into the intake and got no response, it just cranked, not even a back fire which is why I put a timing light on #1 spark plug wire anyway and got no flash, so I assumed I have no spark. I will check the injectors for a signal. I will also check more spark plug wires.

I might just rebuild the brake caliper that is leaking on my 67 vette and drive that one for a while. At least I have a bead on the problem and it starts.