Tod Stiles

If you don't know already, code 15 is a coolant sensor problem.

Bfenty

Yea. Does it mean the sensor is bad or there's a coolant issue?

Tod Stiles

That's a sensor problem. I would make darn sure that it's plugged in ok and the wires aren't pinched and the cooling system has all the air out of it. I'd clear the codes and run it again just to make sure. The sensor is cheap but it's a pain to replace. It's on the front of the intake manifold next to the cold start sensor.

Bfenty

It's probably got air because I flushed it.

Bfenty

Is this the knock sensor?

aklim

Looks like it. IIRC, it should be on the right side of the block.

Tod Stiles

If that's screwd into the head on the passenger side (looks like it) that's the fan temperature sensor. The knock sensor is on that side but lower down, screwed into the block.

Edit for some reason where I wrote knock sensor it's linking to some parts site/that's wrong

aklim

Seems to be a muffler thing. Was it a bottom view?

Bfenty

That was shot from the top. It's towards the rear of the block, passenger side, between the two rearmost spark plugs.

I replaced all the spark plugs, most were pretty fouled up. It runs a lot better now, but still misfiring. I think the plugs were a symptom not a cause.

Took a look at the ignition coil and the resistance was difficult to gauge. The only reading I could get was 75 ohms resistance-I don't remember what the manual said but that was outside the range. It's not stock and the wire colors are different from stock, so I was having trouble figuring out how to test it. It looks pretty beat up and there's a good deal of rust on it. I can replace it for about $10 so I think I'll probably do that next.

While pulling the plugs it seems there was some oil and gas in the cylinders. It makes sense there would be gas in there because it's been running rich. I cleared the codes and I'm not currently getting any more error codes-so that's good anyway.

aklim

Oil could be from the valve stem seals but I'd run a compression test

Bfenty

I've never done a compression test before-is that a difficult thing to do?

aklim

If you can screw in a spark plug, you can buy a gauge and do it

Bfenty

That sounds pretty easy. I can handle that I think

Edit: what do you do if compression is off? Sorry I feel like that's a dumb question but we're a little outside my range of experience.

aklim

Then you can do a leak down test. Ideally you screw the tester in and hit the throttle all the way down and crank. See what the gauge says after it stops rising. Remove the gauge, squirt a little oil and repeat. A couple of seconds of cranking should be nine. 3 or 4 seconds. After 4 cylinders, charge battery. Finish the last 4.

No oil test should be within 10%of each other. Post results. We can see if the oil causes a spike. If it does, you are fawked.

Bfenty

FRom doing some research (aka google), if you spray some oil into the cylinder and the compression improves, that means the rings need to be replaced right? And if not, it's the valves?

aklim

Partial credit. If it is low and or uneven and doesn't improve with oil, I'd look at the valves. OTOH, if the pressure is within spec and even, it's good.

Bfenty

I bought this car knowing it would be a project so I'm not shying away from the work. I'm an amateur mechanic at best, but I intend to learn as I go.

Tod Stiles

Good attitude. Just have some patience. I think you're just going to find a bunch of problems of various sizes as you go along. Keep chipping away-these cars are a lot of fun!

Bfenty

This is my dream car and I'm loving it so far!

VikingTrad3r

you r waking a similar path as my 85 !

1. your ks plug is a bit broken a bit but should be fine. sqeeze the plastic housig to make it circular and it will pull off.

its a large deep socket to get it off.

you are going to get very very very wet with coolant. drain your rad first using petcock on bottom passenger rear side of rad. have a large area bin!

then rnr ks. fix harness if it is missing. i used pipe dope (white) on threads but i believe new ones are already doped. this s yur timeto do thourough rad flush if you intend.


2. unless the car was ran hard out of oil i doubt your rings.

valve stem seals are VERY common to have go out. 2 of my three had it. cheap as chips. i used the blue felpro intake valve seals on both intake and exhaust valves. you dont have to. there are very inexpensive vss kits on rockauto. you need one special valve spring compressor tool rentable/loanable for near free or almost free to buy iff amazon. you NEED a set of feeler gauges that godown to .001. IF YOU want to get perfect valve lash when you do it the first time, get the feeler gauge set and search feeler gauge method valve springs. coat feeler gauge with oil and u will feel it bite then u back off thebnut a microdegree till the feeler slides again and u will have perfect lash. if u r an amateur like me do this. the wiggle method is too subjective for noobs like me i had to do it twice.
also do yourself a big favour and get a compression tester valve spring air compressor combo. avail on amazon. it comes apart and allows you to injecy air into your cyl to do the job. i dont recommend the rope method noteithstanding it must work for some people but for me it was not pushing the valve up all the way.

im still betting your misfire (is it really a miss?) is ignition related (got a melted spark pug wire? or arching? spray fine mist of water on engine while running and dark and u would see lightshow if its arcing. u may be right with coil. you can test the strength of distributor spark on bench if you want to ensure its pumping out a string spark.