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Does the Annual Change M-1 have an improved additive package? I change EP or plain M-1 at 5K or when OL meter is low. Looks real clean.
Any sense in considering Annual Change formula. I'll bet they want $10 a qt. for it whereas I can get 6 qt.s of EP or original M-1 at WM or Costco for $4.50 a qt.
Dave
I currently have enough "regular" Mobil-1 for 3 oil changes. I haven't seen that particular version as yet, but I'm not looking. Both my '02 and '93 only get annual oil changes simply because of the low miles I drive.
My daily driver is an '08 Silverado with the 6.0L motor and it gets used about 12K per year and some of that is trailer towing. For the last oil change, I bought some Mobil-1 Extended Performance oil thinking I could easily go a year between changes. After getting that oil home, I noticed there was a disclaimer on the bottle that said this oil should not be used in a vehicle that is subject to heavy-duty use such as trailer towing
So I guess I would be curious if this "Annual Change oil is deemed suitable for any sort of heavy-duty or performance use. Owners of C5's and C4's that do track days, autocross, or do a lot of "spirited driving" may need to be cautious in using this oil if there are limitations on its use for certain types of driving. Anything on the bottle about limitations??
I currently have enough "regular" Mobil-1 for 3 oil changes. I haven't seen that particular version as yet, but I'm not looking. Both my '02 and '93 only get annual oil changes simply because of the low miles I drive.
My daily driver is an '08 Silverado with the 6.0L motor and it gets used about 12K per year and some of that is trailer towing. For the last oil change, I bought some Mobil-1 Extended Performance oil thinking I could easily go a year between changes. After getting that oil home, I noticed there was a disclaimer on the bottle that said this oil should not be used in a vehicle that is subject to heavy-duty use such as trailer towing
So I guess I would be curious if this "Annual Change oil is deemed suitable for any sort of heavy-duty or performance use. Owners of C5's and C4's that do track days, autocross, or do a lot of "spirited driving" may need to be cautious in using this oil if there are limitations on its use for certain types of driving. Anything on the bottle about limitations??
on the Annual Change. It seems be in its introductory phase. Sponsoring Kevin Harvick's and other Stewart-Haas cars at Vegas this weekend. I am about to buy M-1 for the wife's Mustang GT as she is near 5k on the M-1 interval. I plan to look into this or just use EP iteration. Harvick's car is painted green as part of the intro.
Dave
You can guess at what the additive package will last for or know. Your call. If you want to know, I'd suggest draining it at 5K and at midstream of the drain, catch the oil, send it out of testing and it will tell you how much life is left. So if say Blackstone Labs says that at 5K, you might be able to go 2K more, you know your max oil life is 7K. OTOH, you can guess that this magic potion will extend the life to whatever you want.
What we think is irrelevant. What we can test for is relevant.
117k using Mobile 1 15,000 mile for at least 1/2 of that milage. 1st time eingine apart. Changed yearly or sooner.
How did you rule the idea that you could not have the same results with another oil? Without that, this sort of "test" is meaningless at best and misleading at worst.
How did you rule the idea that you could not have the same results with another oil? Without that, this sort of "test" is meaningless at best and misleading at worst.
Really wasn't a test just my experience. Have a 2002 Monti Carlo and used conventional oil and it is not as clean. A pro mechanic saw it (the Vette)and asked if it was ever apart before. He couldn't believe how clean it was. Don't know if it was just synthetic oil or the Mobile 1 but I do know the results. Tore into my 1st engine over 50 years ago. Never one that clean. The old days there was sludge in all the corners. Not a testomony a fact I experienced. Sold on synthetic oil and I am not a snake oil type person. I have to see positive results.
Only way to know is to have a test with a bunch of motors running and disassemble and check. One or two instances don't tell much. There is a Yugo that will be better than the best S-class Mercedes. Doesn't mean that the one instance is as good a comparison.
Only way to know is to have a test with a bunch of motors running and disassemble and check. One or two instances don't tell much. There is a Yugo that will be better than the best S-class Mercedes. Doesn't mean that the one instance is as good a comparison.
I wasn't running a test just sharing my experence. What I said and showed is a fact. Now let others share their experiences and then each can come to their own conclusion. The most important thing is to use good oil. The key word is good. If what I used wasn't good there is no way it would be that clean after 117k and 28 years of use. I changed to synthetic on the Monti and the engine ran 10* cooler which to less friction. As you know sludge is wear and metal debree from friction. I am a believer of synthetic oil and prefer Mobile 1. There are other syntheticoils with just as good of ratings.. Wow I'm out of breath and have a blister on my finger. The post started whit the question whatch think on Mobile 1 annual change. Just my humble extra long answer.
I wasn't running a test just sharing my experence. What I said and showed is a fact. Now let others share their experiences and then each can come to their own conclusion. The most important thing is to use good oil. The key word is good. If what I used wasn't good there is no way it would be that clean after 117k and 28 years of use. I changed to synthetic on the Monti and the engine ran 10* cooler which to less friction. As you know sludge is wear and metal debree from friction. I am a believer of synthetic oil and prefer Mobile 1. There are other syntheticoils with just as good of ratings.. Wow I'm out of breath and have a blister on my finger. The post started whit the question whatch think on Mobile 1 annual change. Just my humble extra long answer.
I agree what you show is what you see. My point was that "one swallow does not a spring make". I also agree that a decent quality oil will produce good results. Before I waste money changing unnecessarily or screw up the engine by changing with too long an interval, I think an oil analysis is a cheap investment. Could you have gotten more mileage between oil changes? Sure. Could you be on the borderline? Sure. Could you have changed sooner? Again, possible.
As an example, I switched to Rotella T6 from Schaffers when oil analysis didn't show that I could gain much more and I can get Schaffers cheaper and easier than Amsoil. Same mileage, less cost and engine probably just as clean from the analysis/
Does the Annual Change M-1 have an improved additive package? I change EP or plain M-1 at 5K or when OL meter is low. Looks real clean.
Any sense in considering Annual Change formula. I'll bet they want $10 a qt. for it whereas I can get 6 qt.s of EP or original M-1 at WM or Costco for $4.50 a qt.
Dave
I saw that new "annual change" Mobil 1 and I smirked. Just what we need, another specialized niche product in the Mobil 1 lineup.
Yes I am sure the new "annual change" Mobil 1 has extra additives since the additives are depleted during the cycle, and this oil is touted as going even longer than M1 EP (15,000).
If you have a special 20-quart oil pan, sure you can go 20,000 miles because it will take much longer for that much oil to become saturated. Otherwise I don't think there is any sense going that long on any oil change, no matter what oil or filter is being used. Some oil and filter companies say their product lasts that long. If your engine isn't blowing up and you have no white smoke out your exhaust, it's hard to argue they are wrong.
Most people extend their oil change intervals to save money and so they are crawling under their vehicles -- or paying for the service --less often. Essentially, for convenience. But how far are we going to push this?
In the average oil pan of 4-6 quarts, there just isn't enough oil to stay fresh and maintain viscosity for that many miles and still provide good engine protection. Let alone in a sports car that is probably pushed harder and higher temperatures than most other motors. I don't think it's worth the added convenience to push it any farther. Besides, if you wanna save some money, Mobil is currently running their annual rebate, through May 31. 2 rebates per household: https://mobiloil.com/en/promotion/mo...nd-mobil-super
Personally, the farthest I would ever go is about 12,000 miles, using a name-brand synthetic oil and a premium long life filter, on a "normal service" usage (not severe service). But also I would do a used oil analysis at about 8-9,000 to justify that longer interval.
But also I would do a used oil analysis at about 8-9,000 to justify that longer interval.
And without a UOA, all we have is someone saying "Runs Just Fine". This is like the old commercials where they tear up 2 motors, one with some snake oil and one without and say "See how clean my motor is with the snake oil?". A proper test takes a bunch of motors and half with and half without to remove bias. Something like a double blind test so you can't fudge the results. With a UOA, you don't have to guess. You can extrapolate and really know if the oil is "near the end of the life" regardless of what the people selling it say. It's like additives. I have no use for them except to laugh at the morons who swallow it wholesale without the seller providing proper tests and just a bunch of "testimonials".
And without a UOA, all we have is someone saying "Runs Just Fine". This is like the old commercials where they tear up 2 motors, one with some snake oil and one without and say "See how clean my motor is with the snake oil?". A proper test takes a bunch of motors and half with and half without to remove bias. Something like a double blind test so you can't fudge the results. With a UOA, you don't have to guess. You can extrapolate and really know if the oil is "near the end of the life" regardless of what the people selling it say. It's like additives. I have no use for them except to laugh at the morons who swallow it wholesale without the seller providing proper tests and just a bunch of "testimonials".
It may depend on what they used in the one that shows wear. kerosene laced with mud vrs their oil? lots of variables.
I just saw the Mobil-1 Annual Change commercial on TV last night and I looked for the Dexos1 label on the front of the bottle and I didn't see it. Maybe it's on the back of the bottle?
The new GM standard for full synthetics is Dexos1. Some bottles of Mobil-1 full synthetic also show the old GM4718M standard for full synthetics. It could be that this new oil is going thru the testing process for the Dexos1 standard, but if that label is not present, I'll be staying with the "regular" Mobil-1 oils for all my rigs.
I never hit 3K mileage in a year anymore so my change is basically an annual change.
But if I drove it that much more? No way would I leave oil in there that long. You cannot prevent blow-by. Before I modded the engine and drove the 86 daily, I never let it go beyond 5K.
I never hit 3K mileage in a year anymore so my change is basically an annual change.
But if I drove it that much more? No way would I leave oil in there that long. You cannot prevent blow-by. Before I modded the engine and drove the 86 daily, I never let it go beyond 5K.
But let's say you did drive it 30,000 miles. Is 5000 too much or too little or just right? Why not 6000 or 10000? That is why I am saying that a UOA is the best way to know. If 5000 was the best and I can make regular work at 4000, why? If regular goes 4000 and synthetic goes to 12000 and costs twice as much as regular, why not?
03-11-2017, 01:21 PM
Watcha think-new Annual Change Mobile 1 ?
