Zip Corvettes

Do you have a calculator out? Add these up for me, from Ikerds,

D44 $1295
D44 Core Charge $1500
Rear Cover $350
C Beam $150

How much is that?
Now how much did I say in putting in a D44?
All of these prices are from Ikerds, assuming you can still get some of them.

Zip Corvettes

So you could buy a used one cheaper at Carlisle or ebay or Craigslist. If you do this, buy one that does not need to be rebuilt but try for low mileage wreck. Now with wrecks you have to be careful because with most of them the front of the bolt holes on the diffs are torn out. You can weld these, but it is expensive. If you have to rebuild it, then you may want to just spend the money and send it off, if you mess up the rebuild you are out way more than what the D36 would have ever cost. These are around used, they are just not plentiful. If you wait for a swap meet and are patient you will find one.

krackenvette

Just to trying show you dont have to buy at some places, so as a forum member that has been screwed by some companies and people, I will shop around , okay Ziippy. Several thousand is stretching it a bit, was my point. Couple thousand with some shopping, as you can find bat wings, driveshafts, pumpkins, etc far cheaper, and even rebuilding a D44 isnt rocket science, and many have had them done far cheaper than some places..
Shopping around as a modifier, hot rodder etc is how most people do it, and I was just trying to help by pointing out some newer numbers on available prices.
Ignore list is a nice feature. Try it.
ps, I noticed someones batwings for D44 are now 995.00, hmmm...

Zip Corvettes

Yes I know you were making a point, I was pointing out that it was not very accurate in the world of D44's. Not sure who you are hmmm to as a d44 cover at $995. Its not Zip, we don't have any but the last ones I had were either a $1000 or $1500 and they were new but they are all gone.
Actaully rebuilding any diff is not rocket science, but if you don't get the case spread correctly with aluminum main caps and you break one, which is what will happen, you will be buying another D44. Which is why I said you should not attempt if you do not do build these. Don't know who you had issues with, but believe it or not most of the companies are not out here to rip you off. You should be accountable for you what you are responsible and that is on both sides. What ever wrong has been done to you, you can imagine we 1000 fold of it, you know customer trying to take advantage of us, so it goes both ways.

hemivett

Ok, lets put this to rest. I really had a max cap of $1100. I have made some calls, both looking for a d44 with gears, (pretty much was laughed at) and checking prices at a couple local shops. Everyone told me the same thing. $600 for labor, $400+ for gears, and $250 for a master rebuild kit. Thats me pulling it, and bringing it in. Ive been saving for about 6mos, so my patience is worn thin, and talking to all these poor customer service people, and after almost losing all my cash to a con man, today Ive had enough! I pulled the trigger on Zips d36 with 3.54. $899, and $80 for shipping. Thank you everyone for all the advice! h

http://www.zip-corvette.com/84-96-3-...l-rebuilt.html

krackenvette

Dont forget speedometer gear change too.. Easy, just need right ones.

19corvette91

I have a 3.07 Dana 44 with batwing I will let go for $1000 shipped to the lower 48 states.

mrodoc

I'm in the same predicament. I have a 1994 with an Lloyd Elliot LE2 build. Dana 36 with 3.07 and a 4A. I have the opportunity to buy a D44 with 3.07 and batwing for $1000 that I would have to change gears to 3.73$$$, then I would need a c beam and driveshaft$$$.
Plus all the added labor to switch out to the Dana 44. Now for the question:I know the Dana44 is much stronger. But for those of us that only do street driving, an occasional burnout (with an auto and 3000stall converter, no clutch dropping at 5000rpm) is it necessary? How many of you actually know of someone who has grenaded their Dana 36 and what were the circumstances? Thanks Gary

WVZR-1

Your particular set of circumstances (desires) I'd think dictate you do something other than what you've found. Needing the 3.73? Maybe requires more thought!

The 3.07 could be assumed to be an '88 or earlier build so why even consider at the price? Your car drives so you wait!

I'd think maybe you shop a 3.54 and start there. Maybe the additional gear you "hint" needing is foolish! Maybe even the later 3.45 build for a start!

Before an install if this is a DIY maybe you just do a clutch pack or for sure check - I'd think the 6 bearing service could be avoided - 3 seals for sure. Much depends on what you know about the rear and inspection.

Your D36 is very salable and maybe would command a higher price when it came to resale because it's drive-able and can be 'road-tested' - you spend the money to do a gear in it and regardless it's still a D36 and now you've got likely another $600+ invested.

Zip Corvettes

Yes, I have shattered a D36. With that being said it was also my fault. If you have enough HP and traction you can kill a D44 as well, it is just more difficult. As far a D36 living, the lower the gear the more likely it will go. This is why we will not build a 3.73 unless it is a HD with cover. If you are doing burnouts where traction is not going to be high, then you will be ok, its when you have all of sudden traction that you need to be worried. Obviously finding a D44 is a better solution, and the $1000 one that someone just advertised sounds like a great deal. Don't be worried about the ratio right now, just stick it in with the 3.07 until you have money to rebuild it.

mrodoc

Thanks for the advice. I'll spring for it. Gary

ghoastrider1

There is a complete 44,rotor to rotor , on Indy craig list. I believe its located just south of Chicago, in Indiana. This is just for general info in case someone is in that area. Lord knows what shipping would be.

Vett1990

When you state "gears", are you also including the spider gears?

I have a D36 with destroyed spider gears. If you have spider gears available I would buy a few sets from you.

Vett1990

Gary, to support your statement regarding the durability of the D36. I will safely state if you have the normal 250 - 275 hp L98 connected to the D36, it will handle MOST abuse if you have street tires and don't dump the clutch at a high RPM.

I ran my D36 on the drag strip with DOT slicks for awhile ( half season)until the spiders gears became smooth and chunky. At that time I had 295 Hp at the wheels.

Currently I have 385 Hp at the wheels with a D44, which is holding up very well Knock on Wood. I re-build / adjust the clutchs each winter. I will suggest that more poeple install and rebuild their D36's, that way there will be more D44's for me..

ghoastrider1

If he has a clutch, then doesn't he have a 44?

Nowanker

The ship for just a differential ain't no big thing - I use a tote anymore because it's easy to pack and secure the differential, I can be reasonably sure that because it has handles it ain't going to be tossed around and dropped because someone didn't realize it's weight.
- WVZR-1
Saw a great trick used for shipping Porsche transaxles... Get a large Ice chest. Super strong, and double walled. Probably work great for the diff, transaxle size was ~$100.