Any battery experts here?
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Any battery experts here?
Okay, well I tried to start my car. It's been sitting since November. After two cranks, it died. Sounded like it was real close to catching, but through for the night. Checked my battery with a multimeter, and it reads 11.85v. Seems like it would be enough, but after two cranks, that was it. Any opinions on that?
Also, I went through the old take-the-gill-off procedure, and took the battery out. Man, that's one I have a lot of experience with, LoL...and I am planning to charge it...but here's my question...
It's a Duralast Gold...does not say "maintenance free" anywhere on it, but it does have fill caps on top. (Yes, many say those are just for venting). Seems a lot of people ask this, but no definitive answers, just the 50/50 split I am oh-so-fond of. Anyone know what I should set my charger at? Conventional or Maintenance Free?
Hoping to put it on overnight, and try again tomorrow...
Thanks!
Also, I went through the old take-the-gill-off procedure, and took the battery out. Man, that's one I have a lot of experience with, LoL...and I am planning to charge it...but here's my question...
It's a Duralast Gold...does not say "maintenance free" anywhere on it, but it does have fill caps on top. (Yes, many say those are just for venting). Seems a lot of people ask this, but no definitive answers, just the 50/50 split I am oh-so-fond of. Anyone know what I should set my charger at? Conventional or Maintenance Free?
Hoping to put it on overnight, and try again tomorrow...
Thanks!
#2
Okay, well I tried to start my car. It's been sitting since November. After two cranks, it died. Sounded like it was real close to catching, but through for the night. Checked my battery with a multimeter, and it reads 11.85v. Seems like it would be enough, but after two cranks, that was it. Any opinions on that?
Also, I went through the old take-the-gill-off procedure, and took the battery out. Man, that's one I have a lot of experience with, LoL...and I am planning to charge it...but here's my question...
It's a Duralast Gold...does not say "maintenance free" anywhere on it, but it does have fill caps on top. (Yes, many say those are just for venting). Seems a lot of people ask this, but no definitive answers, just the 50/50 split I am oh-so-fond of. Anyone know what I should set my charger at? Conventional or Maintenance Free?
Hoping to put it on overnight, and try again tomorrow...
Thanks!
Also, I went through the old take-the-gill-off procedure, and took the battery out. Man, that's one I have a lot of experience with, LoL...and I am planning to charge it...but here's my question...
It's a Duralast Gold...does not say "maintenance free" anywhere on it, but it does have fill caps on top. (Yes, many say those are just for venting). Seems a lot of people ask this, but no definitive answers, just the 50/50 split I am oh-so-fond of. Anyone know what I should set my charger at? Conventional or Maintenance Free?
Hoping to put it on overnight, and try again tomorrow...
Thanks!
#3
Melting Slicks
Okay, well I tried to start my car. It's been sitting since November. After two cranks, it died. Sounded like it was real close to catching, but through for the night. Checked my battery with a multimeter, and it reads 11.85v. Seems like it would be enough, but after two cranks, that was it. Any opinions on that?
Also, I went through the old take-the-gill-off procedure, and took the battery out. Man, that's one I have a lot of experience with, LoL...and I am planning to charge it...but here's my question...
It's a Duralast Gold...does not say "maintenance free" anywhere on it, but it does have fill caps on top. (Yes, many say those are just for venting). Seems a lot of people ask this, but no definitive answers, just the 50/50 split I am oh-so-fond of. Anyone know what I should set my charger at? Conventional or Maintenance Free?
Hoping to put it on overnight, and try again tomorrow...
Thanks!
Also, I went through the old take-the-gill-off procedure, and took the battery out. Man, that's one I have a lot of experience with, LoL...and I am planning to charge it...but here's my question...
It's a Duralast Gold...does not say "maintenance free" anywhere on it, but it does have fill caps on top. (Yes, many say those are just for venting). Seems a lot of people ask this, but no definitive answers, just the 50/50 split I am oh-so-fond of. Anyone know what I should set my charger at? Conventional or Maintenance Free?
Hoping to put it on overnight, and try again tomorrow...
Thanks!
How old is the battery, usually a few years is the life on average for a standard lead acid battery.
Even less from my company vehicle example, a new daily use car will usually need a battery withing two years ...... this has happened to me so many times.
If it is kept charged and used regularly, now a neglected and a battery left to slowly deeply discharge will never be the same.
Never the less it should show 12-13 volts on your multi meter, remember if it falls below 10.5 volts the cranking will stop.
Charge the battery and if it shows 12-13 volts you will be good to go, otherwise change the battery.
I recommend a yellow top optima battery for a vette not used regularly, they bounce back from being completely discharged to good as new.
Have had my optima for around 7 or 8 years now, love it
Note ... most battery chargers will not charge a battery below 10.5 volts, you need to hook parallel to another battery to charge it.
That sometimes gives batteries a bad name...
#4
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I have a couple of chargers. Usually use my Sears Die Hard. Do you know if the Duralast is maintenance Free? Need to know what setting to put the charger on. Thanks.
Last edited by racerseks; 03-24-2017 at 11:07 PM.
#5
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Hi
How old is the battery, usually a few years is the life on average for a standard lead acid battery.
Even less from my company vehicle example, a new daily use car will usually need a battery withing two years ...... this has happened to me so many times.
If it is kept charged and used regularly, now a neglected and a battery left to slowly deeply discharge will never be the same.
Never the less it should show 12-13 volts on your multi meter, remember if it falls below 10.5 volts the cranking will stop.
Charge the battery and if it shows 12-13 volts you will be good to go, otherwise change the battery.
I recommend a yellow top optima battery for a vette not used regularly, they bounce back from being completely discharged to good as new.
Have had my optima for around 7 or 8 years now, love it
Note ... most battery chargers will not charge a battery below 10.5 volts, you need to hook parallel to another battery to charge it.
That sometimes gives batteries a bad name...
How old is the battery, usually a few years is the life on average for a standard lead acid battery.
Even less from my company vehicle example, a new daily use car will usually need a battery withing two years ...... this has happened to me so many times.
If it is kept charged and used regularly, now a neglected and a battery left to slowly deeply discharge will never be the same.
Never the less it should show 12-13 volts on your multi meter, remember if it falls below 10.5 volts the cranking will stop.
Charge the battery and if it shows 12-13 volts you will be good to go, otherwise change the battery.
I recommend a yellow top optima battery for a vette not used regularly, they bounce back from being completely discharged to good as new.
Have had my optima for around 7 or 8 years now, love it
Note ... most battery chargers will not charge a battery below 10.5 volts, you need to hook parallel to another battery to charge it.
That sometimes gives batteries a bad name...
yea, I plan to charge it tonight. Just trying to find out if it's maintenance free or not so I know what to set the charger on. Would you know?...Or how I can tell...
Will change it if need be, but just hoping to start it for now.
Thanks for your thoughts...
#6
Melting Slicks
Duralast is made by Johnson Controls, same as Diehard and a lot of private label brands. All semi-modern cars have electronics that is always on and will run a battery down over time. A float charger will keep them healthy while in storage.
The voltage at rest means little. Turn the headlights on and see what it is. It probably needs a good charge. A normal lead acid battery should last 3-4 years, however deep discharges do shorten their lives especially if left discharged for an extended period.
It does not need water.
The voltage at rest means little. Turn the headlights on and see what it is. It probably needs a good charge. A normal lead acid battery should last 3-4 years, however deep discharges do shorten their lives especially if left discharged for an extended period.
It does not need water.
Last edited by jv9999; 03-24-2017 at 11:03 PM.
#7
I wouldn't worry too much about settings with it. Just put it on the lowest setting overnight if you feel fine doing so and let it charge. It's most likely a standard flooded cell battery. You could set the initial charge for 15Amps and see what it reads on the charger and then back it down to a trickle normally 2A overnight
#8
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Duralast is made by Johnson Controls, same as Diehard and a lot of private label brands. All semi-modern cars have electronics that is always on and will run a battery down over time. A float charger will keep them healthy while in storage.
The voltage at rest means little. Turn the headlights on and see what it is. It probably needs a good charge. A normal lead acid battery should last 3-4 years, however deep discharges do shorten their lives especially if left discharged for an extended period.
It does not need water.
The voltage at rest means little. Turn the headlights on and see what it is. It probably needs a good charge. A normal lead acid battery should last 3-4 years, however deep discharges do shorten their lives especially if left discharged for an extended period.
It does not need water.
#9
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I wouldn't worry too much about settings with it. Just put it on the lowest setting overnight if you feel fine doing so and let it charge. It's most likely a standard flooded cell battery. You could set the initial charge for 15Amps and see what it reads on the charger and then back it down to a trickle normally 2A overnight
Thanks!
Last edited by racerseks; 03-25-2017 at 12:32 AM.
#10
Burning Brakes
Duralast is made by Johnson Controls, same as Diehard and a lot of private label brands. All semi-modern cars have electronics that is always on and will run a battery down over time. A float charger will keep them healthy while in storage.
The voltage at rest means little. Turn the headlights on and see what it is. It probably needs a good charge. A normal lead acid battery should last 3-4 years, however deep discharges do shorten their lives especially if left discharged for an extended period.
It does not need water.
The voltage at rest means little. Turn the headlights on and see what it is. It probably needs a good charge. A normal lead acid battery should last 3-4 years, however deep discharges do shorten their lives especially if left discharged for an extended period.
It does not need water.
#11
Safety Car
http://www.sears.com/diehard-10-2-50...-02871222000P#
If your charger is several years old, the terminology might be confusing. I'm going to guess the "Maintenance Free" setting may be referring to the charger internal control, rather than to the battery. Does your charger say "Automatic" on it? In the "Maint. Free" position, the charger may automatically reduce to a trickle charge when it detects the battery is fully charged. In the "Conventional" position, the charge will be continuous, rather than automatic. (Merely my half-educated prognostication!)
A "Maintenance Free" battery has a catalyst in the cell caps that converts the hydrogen gas that is created during the charge/discharge cycles back into water, which is returned to each cell. Therefore "Maintenance Free" batteries don't need to have water added to the cells as often. Internally, the cell construction isn't much different than a standard lead/acid battery. All Corvette batteries need water (so far!). If you can remove the cell caps, it's good to check the fluid level (H2SO4 + H2O). Lots of perfectly good batteries get discarded merely because they have been run low of water.
#12
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
So no tech manual on the charger? Is this your charger:
http://www.sears.com/diehard-10-2-50...-02871222000P#
If your charger is several years old, the terminology might be confusing. I'm going to guess the "Maintenance Free" setting may be referring to the charger internal control, rather than to the battery. Does your charger say "Automatic" on it? In the "Maint. Free" position, the charger may automatically reduce to a trickle charge when it detects the battery is fully charged. In the "Conventional" position, the charge will be continuous, rather than automatic. (Merely my half-educated prognostication!)
A "Maintenance Free" battery has a catalyst in the cell caps that converts the hydrogen gas that is created during the charge/discharge cycles back into water, which is returned to each cell. Therefore "Maintenance Free" batteries don't need to have water added to the cells as often. Internally, the cell construction isn't much different than a standard lead/acid battery. All Corvette batteries need water (so far!). If you can remove the cell caps, it's good to check the fluid level (H2SO4 + H2O). Lots of perfectly good batteries get discarded merely because they have been run low of water.
http://www.sears.com/diehard-10-2-50...-02871222000P#
If your charger is several years old, the terminology might be confusing. I'm going to guess the "Maintenance Free" setting may be referring to the charger internal control, rather than to the battery. Does your charger say "Automatic" on it? In the "Maint. Free" position, the charger may automatically reduce to a trickle charge when it detects the battery is fully charged. In the "Conventional" position, the charge will be continuous, rather than automatic. (Merely my half-educated prognostication!)
A "Maintenance Free" battery has a catalyst in the cell caps that converts the hydrogen gas that is created during the charge/discharge cycles back into water, which is returned to each cell. Therefore "Maintenance Free" batteries don't need to have water added to the cells as often. Internally, the cell construction isn't much different than a standard lead/acid battery. All Corvette batteries need water (so far!). If you can remove the cell caps, it's good to check the fluid level (H2SO4 + H2O). Lots of perfectly good batteries get discarded merely because they have been run low of water.
The charger I am using looks similar to that one. I have a larger one, but unable to access it right now.
No, it does not say "automatic" on it...
Yes, I have checked, and the water level is good.
If you know of a way for me to determine if my battery is "maintenance free" or "conventional" please let me know. I figured if the caps came off to add water, it would be conventional, but seems that is not always the case.
Thanks for your thoughts...
#13
Team Owner
Member Since: Oct 2004
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St. Jude Donor '05
Weak batteries can cause lots of weirdo problems in these cars
Even on a carbed car anything less than full voltage even if it started gave running issues. Toss that pos and get a new one dont screw with it.
move on enjoy that car!!!
If it still persists pull fuses til you find the draw(bet you dont)
Cars are meant to be driven. Can store but dont overthink this
Even on a carbed car anything less than full voltage even if it started gave running issues. Toss that pos and get a new one dont screw with it.
move on enjoy that car!!!
If it still persists pull fuses til you find the draw(bet you dont)
Cars are meant to be driven. Can store but dont overthink this
#14
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Weak batteries can cause lots of weirdo problems in these cars
Even on a carbed car anything less than full voltage even if it started gave running issues. Toss that pos and get a new one dont screw with it.
move on enjoy that car!!!
If it still persists pull fuses til you find the draw(bet you dont)
Cars are meant to be driven. Can store but dont overthink this
Even on a carbed car anything less than full voltage even if it started gave running issues. Toss that pos and get a new one dont screw with it.
move on enjoy that car!!!
If it still persists pull fuses til you find the draw(bet you dont)
Cars are meant to be driven. Can store but dont overthink this
If I charge it and it doesn't hold a charge, I'll consider buying a new one. It just seems a bit early to do that, seeing as it was sitting out there for months, and may very well be fine with a charge as it seems to have done before.
If you know how to determine if it's "maintenance free" or "conventional", I'd appreciate it. If not, it's cool...nothing wrong with not knowing. At this point, I'm inclined to see if any answers anyone provides regarding making this determination are the same, as it seems there's not a lot of info and/or knowledge determining this.
Appreciate your thoughts just the same...
Thanks!
Last edited by racerseks; 03-25-2017 at 03:28 AM.
#15
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Condensed version of my question...
I think I may have been too "wordy" in my initial post, and it seems this got a bit off-topic. I'll try again and condense my question.
I want to try charging my battery. My charger has two settings..."Maintenance free" and "Conventional". How do I determine which I have so I can set my charger accordingly? If no one knows, that's fine. No harm done. Thank you...
I want to try charging my battery. My charger has two settings..."Maintenance free" and "Conventional". How do I determine which I have so I can set my charger accordingly? If no one knows, that's fine. No harm done. Thank you...
#16
I think I may have been too "wordy" in my initial post, and it seems this got a bit off-topic. I'll try again and condense my question.
I want to try charging my battery. My charger has two settings..."Maintenance free" and "Conventional". How do I determine which I have so I can set my charger accordingly? If no one knows, that's fine. No harm done. Thank you...
I want to try charging my battery. My charger has two settings..."Maintenance free" and "Conventional". How do I determine which I have so I can set my charger accordingly? If no one knows, that's fine. No harm done. Thank you...
http://www.sears.com/diehard-gold-au...p-02850875000P
#17
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
#18
#19
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
#20
Le Mans Master
Fairly certain these are maintenance free batteries. I have a Duralast that's probably about 6 years old now and it's been fine, they are not bad batteries. This battery has 3 year free replacement so you can take it back to Autozone for them to check out, but I would be surprised if the battery is bad.
If you park the car over the winter and can't trickle charge I suggest a quick disconnect ****. I use one, they work great. The car will draw about 30mA of power, so over a few months that can cause the battery charge to drop.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Battery-Disc...RUpPLT&vxp=mtr
If you park the car over the winter and can't trickle charge I suggest a quick disconnect ****. I use one, they work great. The car will draw about 30mA of power, so over a few months that can cause the battery charge to drop.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Battery-Disc...RUpPLT&vxp=mtr