Best sway bars??
#1
Best sway bars??
I just picked up a 92 6 speed. Looking for something to reduce body roll. What are the best sway bars for a 92 with base suspension ??
#3
Melting Slicks
The 92 to 95 Z51's all had 30mm front - 24mm rear, so hunt around for some used z51 pieces and get new urethane bushes and that should make a big difference.
Nothing wrong with soft springs and bigger bars for street use.
Nothing wrong with soft springs and bigger bars for street use.
#4
Safety Car
Nothing wrong with soft springs and bigger bars for street use.
#6
Melting Slicks
http://www.corvettefaq.com/c3/herbadams.htm
#7
Still haven't pulled the trigger on these. I checked my car out, the front sway bar bushings look fine but the rears are toast. Of course 1992 was the only year with a 22m rear sway bar and its next to impossible to find regular rubber bushings for it. I was about to just replace the rear bushings and leave it at that...
Would doing poly bushings in the rear sway bar only be ok? Also would going with a larger rear sway bar help the handling or would I have to replace both front and rear?
Would doing poly bushings in the rear sway bar only be ok? Also would going with a larger rear sway bar help the handling or would I have to replace both front and rear?
#8
Safety Car
On the replacing the sway bar on one end vs both, I'm not inclined to promote changing just one unless it's broken and you're putting back in the comparable replacement. Typically they're rated as a set, if you change the size of one but not the other you run the risk of upsetting the balance of your vehicle. Until you've seen a vehicle swap ends in a curve or something similar, you don't know what a thrill is. My suggestion is if you want to swap one sway bar, look for an engineered set and do both or neither.
Last edited by hcbph; 04-23-2017 at 07:48 AM.
#9
Melting Slicks
However, if my 94' were a Z07 suspension car, it would have a 30mm Solid front sway bar, and still retain the (FE1) 24mm Solid rear sway bar.
In some instances it is okay to increase one and not the other. Granted, this isn't taking the spring rate differences from FE1 to Z07 into effect but you get the idea. It is a complete/balanced package. With that said I have heard of people leaving the soft FE1 springs and going with the more aggressive Z51/Z07 springs and it works out pretty well for a street car.
#10
Safety Car
What you are saying makes sense but this always isn't the case. For instance my 1994 is an FE1 base suspension car. It came from the factory with a 26mm Tubular front sway bar and a 24mm Solid rear sway bar.
However, if my 94' were a Z07 suspension car, it would have a 30mm Solid front sway bar, and still retain the (FE1) 24mm Solid rear sway bar.
In some instances it is okay to increase one and not the other. Granted, this isn't taking the spring rate differences from FE1 to Z07 into effect but you get the idea. It is a complete/balanced package. With that said I have heard of people leaving the soft FE1 springs and going with the more aggressive Z51/Z07 springs and it works out pretty well for a street car.
However, if my 94' were a Z07 suspension car, it would have a 30mm Solid front sway bar, and still retain the (FE1) 24mm Solid rear sway bar.
In some instances it is okay to increase one and not the other. Granted, this isn't taking the spring rate differences from FE1 to Z07 into effect but you get the idea. It is a complete/balanced package. With that said I have heard of people leaving the soft FE1 springs and going with the more aggressive Z51/Z07 springs and it works out pretty well for a street car.
Now on my comment on swaybar replacements. I'm no engineer and don't feel I'm competent to know which I can replace in one direction (larger or smaller) that will be fully compatible with the other existing one. That's why I suggested looking for a pair that are engineered to work together. If they came oem on some model, I sure can accept that. If they've been tested and shown to work together, no problem there either. What I just hope I never see again is where someone saw someone running xyz swaybar on one end of a car and figured it was fine on theirs without researching the rest of the equation. I've seen the results where one piece like that is replaced but not 'compatible' with the rest of the suspension and it can cause a real thrill or even an accident.
I'm not against upgrading, quite the contrary. I did some extensive upgrades last winter on mine, changing out the trailing arms; camber rods and toe rods for the Banski Motorsport kits. Even though it's been tested and recommended by many people, once I had it set up and alignment done and everything else I planned doing, I spent some time out in a deserted parking lot exercising the car and confirming all was good before really taking it to any windy roads etc. Better safe than sorry.
#11
Melting Slicks
I don't want to start a contest, rather make sure everyone is on the same page. The quote noted from my earlier related to if one set of bushings needed replacement then there's a fair chance the other ones would also. They're cheap, do them all and be safe.
Now on my comment on swaybar replacements. I'm no engineer and don't feel I'm competent to know which I can replace in one direction (larger or smaller) that will be fully compatible with the other existing one. That's why I suggested looking for a pair that are engineered to work together. If they came oem on some model, I sure can accept that. If they've been tested and shown to work together, no problem there either. What I just hope I never see again is where someone saw someone running xyz swaybar on one end of a car and figured it was fine on theirs without researching the rest of the equation. I've seen the results where one piece like that is replaced but not 'compatible' with the rest of the suspension and it can cause a real thrill or even an accident.
I'm not against upgrading, quite the contrary. I did some extensive upgrades last winter on mine, changing out the trailing arms; camber rods and toe rods for the Banski Motorsport kits. Even though it's been tested and recommended by many people, once I had it set up and alignment done and everything else I planned doing, I spent some time out in a deserted parking lot exercising the car and confirming all was good before really taking it to any windy roads etc. Better safe than sorry.
Now on my comment on swaybar replacements. I'm no engineer and don't feel I'm competent to know which I can replace in one direction (larger or smaller) that will be fully compatible with the other existing one. That's why I suggested looking for a pair that are engineered to work together. If they came oem on some model, I sure can accept that. If they've been tested and shown to work together, no problem there either. What I just hope I never see again is where someone saw someone running xyz swaybar on one end of a car and figured it was fine on theirs without researching the rest of the equation. I've seen the results where one piece like that is replaced but not 'compatible' with the rest of the suspension and it can cause a real thrill or even an accident.
I'm not against upgrading, quite the contrary. I did some extensive upgrades last winter on mine, changing out the trailing arms; camber rods and toe rods for the Banski Motorsport kits. Even though it's been tested and recommended by many people, once I had it set up and alignment done and everything else I planned doing, I spent some time out in a deserted parking lot exercising the car and confirming all was good before really taking it to any windy roads etc. Better safe than sorry.