severe-1

Just tucked my new 383 motor in, squeezed in the headers, bolted up the trans, cursed the motor mount bolts, wired the starter, then wen't to bolt up the torque converter. When I spun the motor about half way round to get the second bolt, BAM, The fat part of the balancer hit the lip on the crossmember of the frame. :smash: :mad :cry
I'm hoping that I can pull the balancer and :smash: :smash: :smash: the frame crossmember enough to clear the balancer. My puller is at work and I don't even know if there is enough room up there to fit the tool in.

Anyone have any clues or suggestions? Please dont tell me I have to pull the motor back out...Those damn motor mount bolts!

severe-1

Should I buy a new balancer? My motor was balanced to this one.

dtorc4

I don't understand what you mean about the "fat" part of the balancer, but if you have an 8" balancer, your screwed. You have to use a 6 3/4" balancer or be prepared with your die grinder to go to town on the crossmember. :D :cheers:

severe-1

The 383 uses a 400 externally balanced balancer. The 400 balancer has an extra area of weight around one section of the unit. It is positioned at the back half of the balancer. At that section, the hole diameter of the balancer is 8". It so happens that that area coincides with a raised section of the frame. If that raised section was flat, the balancer would clear no problem.
I checked the clearance when I first was installing the motor, and of coarce the "thin" part of tthe balancer was towards the bottom,so there was good clearance. I wish I thought of spinning the motor then...

severe-1

[IMG] [/IMG]

drive it

Hmmm, sounds familiar!!! I used an air diegrinder to cut out that area of the frame-doesn't take much, and then had a piece welded in behind the hole I cut just 'cause I overdo everything. I've also heard of someone here using an air hammer to flatten that area out for clearance. If I'd heard of the air hammer I'd of tried that first. Of course just using a really big hammer won't do it......yea I tried that too! :smash:

dtorc4

severe, that is a BEAUTIFUL engine you have, but...

why in the hell are you using regular runners and an (apparently) unported plenum for a 383?!?!?!?!?

No offense whatsoever, but your engine will choke on the stock intake system. At least get some large tube runner, port the plenum, and port the intake or get an aftermarket one. You will never realize the potential of that 383 w/ a stock TPI system.

I hope you have bigger injectors and a bigger TB on there as well. :cheers:

I'm not jankin' on you, I just want to make sure you are doing everything right, or at least have good intentions. :cheers: :D


[Modified by dtorc4, 6:11 AM 10/24/2002]

severe-1

Hey dude..
Those are big tube runners, ported plenum, ported TPIS big mouth manifold, ported throttle body...
Can you say sleeper? This motor is built to grunt.

vettewally

You can get a smaller balancer that will work but it is expensive Fluid damper$300average. Or take the old one out and either grind or air hammer the cross member. I grinded mine, it didn't take to much grinding.

MCAF84

Had the same thing happen to me :mad
It can be fixed with the motor in the car :D
I pulled the balancer and with a long piece of 1" pipe
I banged a big dent into the cross member. It didn't look pretty
but it worked. touch up the paint that was chipped reinstall the
balancer and you will not see the dent.
Good Luck
Mike

trupp

When I installed my ZZ4 motor I new from previous posts that I would have the same problem with the motor's 8" dampner. I cut out a section with a die grinder, rolled a piece of .060" steel, welded it in place and painted it. When finished you could not till this was not a factory job. Bad news is that with the engine and steering rack installed you can not do this. Your only solution at this point would be remove the balancer and use an air hammer to dent the crossmember, when finished cleanup the crossmember and repaint so your crossmember does not rust. By the way, I don't understand your problem with the motor mounts. I had no problem with mine the single bolt slipped right through once the motor was properly aligned. Did you have the headers installed on the motor before you installed the engine?

oldace84

I went with a Fluiddamper....Street Damper from JEGS....P/N 388-716242-001 ...Seemed like a safe idea........engine runs much smoother...I'm HAPPY...HAPPY....HAPPY....6"3/4 size.... :D :D :D

WEH 2000C5

:cool: engine. Someone would easily mistake that for a stock 350 TPI! I don't have any suggestions for your situation however.