cdalzell

I plan to replace the stock upper and lower control arm bushings on a 1987 with a set of polygraphite ones.

Do I need special bushing presses to complete the task or is there a trick I am not getting?

:smash:

All responses greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Colin

Bluevette85

You need some sort of press. I borrowed a Ball Joint press from Autozone. Drill some holes around the bushing. Use a small socket to press out the inner metal sleeve. When the sleeve is out enough, clamp a vise grip on it and pry it out. Then use a larger socket to press out the bushing. This takes time, patience, and strength. Good luck.

vetracer

Depending on how you are going to use the car, I would first consider rubber instead of poly. If you are not going to use it for road racing or autocross, I would use rubber. It is quieter and doesn't transmit as much road noise. I have had problems with squeaking with the poly ones, even when covered with the special white sticky, nasty grease. I installed Zerk fittings afterwards to eliminate the squeaking. and it worked for a short while but came back after a few hundred miles.




[Modified by vetracer, 8:18 PM 1/4/2003]

CorvetteZ51Racer

If you're talking about the front bushings, the rubber ones are not available (at least they weren't three years ago) separate from the control arms. Personally, I can't justify spending $1000 on new control arms and bushings, when the poly bushings (though more annoying) cost so much less.

Anyhow, what you need to do with the bushings depends highly on the condition of the current ones. If they're in ok shape (i.e. not dry-rotted to hell and back) you can do what the first reply mentioned. Mine were dry-rotted like original tires from a '36 Ford that had been sitting in a corn field for 60 years, if you get my drift. After pressing out the metal sleeve, I had to take a hacksaw and cut off one side of the stock bushing (where the lip overlaps the control arm), pry the bushing away from the aluminum (VERY carefully) and shoot half a can of WD40 around the edges of the bushing before I could press them out. Most poly bushings are two-piece poly with a single metal sleeve for each bushing. This basically means that when you're installing them, using the included grease, a block of wood to protect the control arm, and a bench vise should provide suffient pressure to install the bushings. Some of mine I could actually push in by hand (though not easily). Good luck, and BTW, the front bushings are MUCH more of a pain than the rears are.

ukchevybuilder

Be very careful with the upper control arms when pressing the bushes out as the arms are relatively weak due to the small cross section. So you need a press tool which works only on one bush at a time.

Another way to remove the rubber bushes is to burn them out. If you use a gas torch rather than an oxy actelyne torch the temperature can be kept down below any risk to the aluminium and the bush can be romoved without a press. Take your time so as not to overheat the aluminium and do it outside for health and safety reasons.

1MoorTym

No press required. As others have mentioned, drill a series of holes around the perimeter of metal sleeves in the existing bushings. Once enough material has been removed, the center sleeve can be tapped out using a couple blocks of wood to support the control arm. Once the sleeve is out, whats left of bushing is pretty pliable. Take a utility knife and cut the rolled edge of the bushing flush with the control arm and push the bushing through the other side.

To install new poly bushings simply install by hand or tap them lightly using blocks of wood to protect and support the end of the control arm.

6spd89

"This basically means that when you're installing them, using the included grease, a block of wood to protect the control arm, and a bench vise should provide suffient pressure to install the bushings. Some of mine I could actually push in by hand (though not easily). Good luck, and BTW, the front bushings are MUCH more of a pain than the rears are."


I placed a tech tip on the front bushings for the top control arm. Basically
using your bench vise on the back side against a wall then just close the
vise. I used large sockets to help the assembly process as well.
Matt
:chevy :chevy :chevy :chevy :chevy :chevy :chevy :chevy :chevy

Aggravated4life

I did the rears and havent done the fronts yet...it wasnt that hard to do just took some time.Youre going to find that with some of the bushings,when you get them out,it will have this white crusty oxided powder on them.Youll need to use a dremel tool and sanding roll and smooth the bushing bores again before putting the new bushings in.The rears on mine were real bad...its like rust for aluminum.

To avoid the noise,dont use the grease that comes in the kit,go to the auto store and get yourself some Marine Grease and a box of latex gloves.
If they dont have it try a boating shop.That stuff is waterproof so youll need the gloves on.Goop the bushings as much as you can then wipe out the excess that comes out after install.That will keep it quiet for years.
I may have used too much grease but it hasnt made any noise in 2 years.
The ride is firmer but not jolting as I was fearing.While this was for the back,the fronts should be the same idea.
The urethane kit will give you bushings that are two halves...the GM pieces are all One piece bushings so youll be able to put the new ones in relatively easy by hand.

:)

Aggravated4life

I just re read something and it said polygraphite bushings...Im wondering if these are self lubing? I used uerthanes so Im unsure if these graphites will still need the lubes...if so then use the marine grease.
Anyone care to comment on graphite needing grease?

ZAD54

I hate to change the subject but, Vetracer did I see your car in the new Vette or Corvette Fever mag this month? (can't remember which one it was) When I saw it I thought it looked familiar. :cheers:

CorvetteZ51Racer

Bill, the polygraphs still need lube. The main difference visually is that the polygraphs are black, not red. The idea was that the graphite would help ease or eliminate the squeaking by adding enough self-lubrication in addition to the lithium grease, but I can tell you from experience it doesn't matter...the polygraphs still squeak.