grumpyvette

RARELY DO I FEEL LIKE CRYING, but I got a question asked...
"is it ok to use a large hammer and block of wood to beat the damper back onto the crank when doing a cam swap"
that question gets me that frustrated



heres the basic installation tool

look at the picture carefully, the tool is available from several sources http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...24&prmenbr=361
heres how to use it...
the small 7/16 thread ,on the tool threads into the crank, the damper slips over the tool, the large washer style bearing slips over the tool followed by the solid washer followed by the large nut that threads on the tool, the back of the tool is normally a 9/16 or 5/8 hex this is held with a box end wrench to keep the engine from turning, the large nut is usually a 1 1/8" nut and it is tightened with an open end 1 1/8" wrench or a adjustable wrench against the two washers drawing the damper onto the crank snout! lube the threads on the tool, the inside of the damper and crank snout with oil before starting. the damper will normally slide on about 1/4 of the way bye hand then the tool is needed to draw the damper on the last 3/4 of the distance,[b] don,t over tighten the tool the 7/16" thread will snap off in the crank after the damper bottoms out on the lower timing gear if you do!,
NEVER USE A HAMMER AND BLOCK OF WOOD TO DRIVE THE DAMPER ON, YES THOUSANDS OF GUYS THINK THEY DID IT WITHOUT ANY PROBLEMS BUT...
IT WILL DAMAGE THE THRUST BEARING CLEARANCES,
IT CAN BREAK THE ELASTOMER TORSION RING ON STOCK DAMPERS
IT CAN CAUSE THE INERTIAL RING ON FLUIDAMPER TO BECOME JAMMED INTERNALLY
IT CAN CAUSE THE DAMPER TO FAIL.
IF THE DAMPER FAILS THE CRANK WILL EVENTUALLY BE DAMMAGED
IT GREATLY STRESSES THE CRANK SHAFT
IT CAN DAMAGE THE CRANKS TRANSMISSION PILOT BEARING
IT CAN DAMAGE THE TRANSNSMISSION
ALMOST EVERY TYPE OF DAMAGE IS NOT SOMETHING THAT SHOWS UP RIGHT AWAY, BUT IT WILL DANMAGE THE PARTS LISTED AND THERES THOUSANDS OF GUYS THAT ARE WONDERING WHY THOSE PARTS FAILED 6-24 MONTHs LATER WITH NO CLUE AS TO THE CAUSE!
ASK YOURSELF THIS QUESTION, IF CRANKSHAFTS THAT ARE A FEW THOUSANDS OUT OF LINE I.E. NOT PERFECTLY STRAIT ARE BENT/STRAITEND WITH A LEAD HAMMER BY CRANK MANUFACTURES (and yes thats how its done) AND CRANKS THAT ARE DROPPED ON A CONCRETE FLoOR SOMETIMES BEND SLIGHTLY ,(happends all the time) WHAT MAKES YOU THINK THAT BEATING ON THEM WITH A HAMMER AND A BLOCK OF WOOD WONT DAMMAGE THEM? AND WHILE WERE AT IT WHAT WOULD YOU DO TO SOME GUY YOU CAUGHT BEATING ON YOUR ENGINE BLOCK WITH A HAMMER? WELL WHAT DO YOU THINK THE CRANKS DOING TO YOUR MAIN CAPS WHEN YOU BEAT ON THE CRANK? PROPERLY USED THAT INSTALLATION TOOL CAN EXCERT OVER 15 TONS OF PRESSURE TO SLIDE THE DAMPER ON, IF IT WONT SLIDE ON, THERES A PROBLEM! FIND IT AND FIX IT .....DON,T BEAT ON THE DAMPER/CRANK

AGENT 86

Well said !!! Your tag fits you well !!!!!!! :cheers:

DiabolicalDave

I feel your pain. :skep: :banghead: :U :mad
I sell a few engines through my website and this sort of thing is what makes warrantying any engine risky. You never know what somebody will do once the engine gets there.


[Modified by DiabolicalDave, 9:54 PM 6/3/2003]

PatsLs1vette

Good post,i was installing a zz4 at work in our shop truck and the other mechanic of 25 years gives me a hand installing the balancer ,with a big 5 lb maul,i almost freaked out.He said thats how ive always do it,well not around me your not i went and got my installer out and put it on,he said they really make tools for that. :rolleyes:

Strick

Sounds like this guy needs an ASE test or two. :yesnod: :thumbs:

:flag :flag :flag

oldace84

Wish I lived close enough to help you.....but................
Anyway......well I'm lost for words right now....sorry...I put a fluid Dampner on mine without any problems.......was this the wrong thing to say???????
Whoops!!!!!!!!!!!
Good Luck
tony
:eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:

CentralCoaster

:bb I didn't do it! I swear.

I used a small hammer.
:leaving:

SUPERNINJAB0Y

alot of machine shops do it......ud' be suprised! :eek:


[Modified by SUPERNINJAB0Y, 5:17 PM 6/4/2003]

Rich_01659

Thanks for the wake up call. I haven't done it yet but i probably would have. Now i know better. I was a jet engine mechanic in the AF and learned a lot of respect for bearings and all mechanical parts .. but jets don't have harmonic balencers. still should have known better.

Aggravated4life

Grumpy,
I bought the same Moroso tool you posted above and it made the install a breeze!!The damper went on really easy once I got the correct wrench to turn the large nut on the install tool.I only had to disconnect the top power steering hard line on the rack for any extra clearance I needed to install new damper.Id never use the hammer trick,and thats what the parts store guys were telling me to do when I couldnt find a damper install tool anywhere.I then decided to order it from Summit.

I highly recommend this tool,even if someone may only use it once, youll never know when ya might have to use it again or even lend to a buddy.

:cheers:

CentralCoaster

The only tool the local stores had for this involved turning the bolt into the crank threads to pull the hub on.

I didn't like that prospect much either, as it seemed like it could strip out the crank threads. :eek:

LT-4 CE

I would never use a hammer to install a balancer. Why spend all the time and effort (not to mention money) machining the crank and rod bearing surfaces for side play that is measures in thousanths of an inch to pound the crap out of the crank.

I have installed a balancer a number of times with the intallation tool and never damaged the crank threads. Just make sure you get the bolt started straight and you'll be in good shape.