big trouble, here's what I've done so far
#1
Race Director
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big trouble, here's what I've done so far
I still can't get this thing to run :nonod:
give me a 750 holley and no computer and i'd be cruisin :yesnod:
i can get the car to idle fairly well when the est is unplugged, but plug it back in and it will start missing and die within a few seconds.
-the timing is set to 6*, i have checked it a couple of times, put number 1 on tdc/compression stroke, set in the dist. pointing to # 1. i think its correct,
- set my fuel pressure to 38lbs. i have brand new 24lb. accels
-adjusted m new bbc throttle body for idle, or close to it
-set the tp sensor to .525 volts
-all wire are hooked up, no lined pinches, new plugs, new leads, all tested good
-brand new distributor, cap, rotor
-new o2 sensor
-replaced maf
the motor still won't run well, it misses and sputters, won't rev over 1200 rpm and continues to backfire into the intake. im stumped because i believe the timing to be close enough(+ or - a degree)
the valve lash was set at 1/2 turn past zero, #8 ans #3 cylinders had cold header tubes, i changed the plugs and leads, they still were cold, so i backed the lash off to 1/4 turn on those 2 and they started to fire like the others.
because the engine backfires into the intake, i'm thinking that maybe the lash should be left at zero on all valves to make sure that they are closing.
does that sound right? :confused:
i am running vortec heads, with a hyd. comp cams extreme energy cam, 1.6 to 1 proform full rollers.
i'm totally stumped and pissed
any help would be great
thanks Greg :cheers:
give me a 750 holley and no computer and i'd be cruisin :yesnod:
i can get the car to idle fairly well when the est is unplugged, but plug it back in and it will start missing and die within a few seconds.
-the timing is set to 6*, i have checked it a couple of times, put number 1 on tdc/compression stroke, set in the dist. pointing to # 1. i think its correct,
- set my fuel pressure to 38lbs. i have brand new 24lb. accels
-adjusted m new bbc throttle body for idle, or close to it
-set the tp sensor to .525 volts
-all wire are hooked up, no lined pinches, new plugs, new leads, all tested good
-brand new distributor, cap, rotor
-new o2 sensor
-replaced maf
the motor still won't run well, it misses and sputters, won't rev over 1200 rpm and continues to backfire into the intake. im stumped because i believe the timing to be close enough(+ or - a degree)
the valve lash was set at 1/2 turn past zero, #8 ans #3 cylinders had cold header tubes, i changed the plugs and leads, they still were cold, so i backed the lash off to 1/4 turn on those 2 and they started to fire like the others.
because the engine backfires into the intake, i'm thinking that maybe the lash should be left at zero on all valves to make sure that they are closing.
does that sound right? :confused:
i am running vortec heads, with a hyd. comp cams extreme energy cam, 1.6 to 1 proform full rollers.
i'm totally stumped and pissed
any help would be great
thanks Greg :cheers:
#2
Team Owner
Re: big trouble, here's what I've done so far (atotalnincompoop)
Well.... TPS should be within .54-.68 range at idle, but .525 shouldn't hurt it.
How old is your balancer? I wonder if its spun some. Can you get a scanner on it?
[Modified by scorp508, 5:10 PM 7/13/2003]
How old is your balancer? I wonder if its spun some. Can you get a scanner on it?
[Modified by scorp508, 5:10 PM 7/13/2003]
#3
Race Director
Re: big trouble, here's what I've done so far (atotalnincompoop)
you should get a scan tool on there to see what the engine sees. Probably something very simple that the tool could show you
Kitt
Kitt
#5
Burning Brakes
Re: big trouble, here's what I've done so far (atotalnincompoop)
Not too sure but I beleive you have OBD1 computer. a paper clip to jump A and B will flash the SES lite. the codes could be the key to your problem.
f e d c b a
o o o o o o
o
g
What seems like years ago (probably cause it was) we built a old 283 and had the same symtoms. We had the distributor in a couple of teeth off and had crossed some of the plug wires.
[Modified by subman, 1:08 AM 7/14/2003]
[Modified by subman, 1:09 AM 7/14/2003]
[Modified by subman, 1:10 AM 7/14/2003]
[Modified by subman, 1:10 AM 7/14/2003]
f e d c b a
o o o o o o
o
g
What seems like years ago (probably cause it was) we built a old 283 and had the same symtoms. We had the distributor in a couple of teeth off and had crossed some of the plug wires.
[Modified by subman, 1:08 AM 7/14/2003]
[Modified by subman, 1:09 AM 7/14/2003]
[Modified by subman, 1:10 AM 7/14/2003]
[Modified by subman, 1:10 AM 7/14/2003]
#6
Le Mans Master
Re: big trouble, here's what I've done so far (atotalnincompoop)
This sounds like the same ordeal I was going through with mine before I had to give up last year. I don't remember all the little things my mechanic said was wrong, but among them were: bad ecm (did you swap?), bad MAF, bad ignition Module (did you replace this as well?), valves needed adjusting. Just a couple of thing to take a look at. Good luck!
#7
Drifting
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Re: big trouble, here's what I've done so far (dtorc4)
If I understand you right it runs ok with the wire unhooked that controls the timing and runs bad when you hook it up. If that is true the timing is probably wrong also check the ignition module
#8
Melting Slicks
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Cruise-In V Veteran
Re: big trouble, here's what I've done so far (black bart)
Sounds like you are one tooth out on the distributor.
Your symptoms sound just like what I was going through on my last start up.
We check the distributer to #1tdc and and no matter how carefully I tried to set the distributor in I ended up 1 tooth off. So just for the hoot of it we tried 180 out and the distributor would not pop in properly. Turns out, the oil pump would not line up. I got the drill out with a oil pump priming tool, spun the oil pump a little and the distributor pop right in where it should.
It took two mechanics and me at least 3 hours to figure this out.
Good luck,
Your symptoms sound just like what I was going through on my last start up.
We check the distributer to #1tdc and and no matter how carefully I tried to set the distributor in I ended up 1 tooth off. So just for the hoot of it we tried 180 out and the distributor would not pop in properly. Turns out, the oil pump would not line up. I got the drill out with a oil pump priming tool, spun the oil pump a little and the distributor pop right in where it should.
It took two mechanics and me at least 3 hours to figure this out.
Good luck,
#9
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Re: big trouble, here's what I've done so far (85vet)
we got it running fairly well tonight by moving all the spark plug leads over (counterclockwise) one position. what a difference :yesnod:
i actually got to drive it :steering: i guess that i was one tooth off:bb
i'll do some fine tuning tomorrow morning and take it for a good blast, it should run alot better after all the old gas has been burned up :yesnod:
thanks for all the help guys :cheers:
[Modified by atotalnincompoop, 11:24 PM 7/13/2003]
i actually got to drive it :steering: i guess that i was one tooth off:bb
i'll do some fine tuning tomorrow morning and take it for a good blast, it should run alot better after all the old gas has been burned up :yesnod:
thanks for all the help guys :cheers:
[Modified by atotalnincompoop, 11:24 PM 7/13/2003]
#10
Drifting
Re: big trouble, here's what I've done so far (atotalnincompoop)
I think it may be a problem within the distributor.
Just for giggles, I would set timing at 6*BTDC with the EST wire disconnected. Pull the cap and rotor. Locate the 2 wire connector from the pickup coil that goes into the IGN module. pull the connector off, flip it over, and plug it back in. Plug the EST wire back in and see if it runs.
Note: I said "I would". I am not saying "You should". I take no responsibility, etc. but it has happens kinda often where the pickup coil wires need to be reversed.
Good luck, -Matt
Just for giggles, I would set timing at 6*BTDC with the EST wire disconnected. Pull the cap and rotor. Locate the 2 wire connector from the pickup coil that goes into the IGN module. pull the connector off, flip it over, and plug it back in. Plug the EST wire back in and see if it runs.
Note: I said "I would". I am not saying "You should". I take no responsibility, etc. but it has happens kinda often where the pickup coil wires need to be reversed.
Good luck, -Matt