Epyon127

I am going to change the valve springs on my car for a future (SOON) cam swap. Has anyone used a valve spring compressor that they really liked working with? I will be changing the springs with the heads still on the engine. Thanks for any help.

Pete K

With the close quarters of the engine compartmentI like to use the one that has the star type wheel on top. You spin it clockwise to compress. Not a lot of money either. If the heads are off I like the standard spring compresser sears sells :cheers:

shotchkiss

I don't have one that I like, but I didn't like the cheaper one I got that looks just like a bent metal bar, the spring would keep sliding off of it. I wish I would have gotten a better one.

96GS#007

Summit Racing sells one for $50. It screws onto the rocker arm stud. Very easy to use.

Here is a link: http://store.summitracing.com/partde...t=SUM%2D906784

The Summit p/n is SUM-906784

TA

I'd definitly recommend something like this one. When I did mine I used the type with the two "hooks" that go on the sides of the spring. They ended up working, but were a major PITA to use. The tool kept popping off of the spring as you got pressure :crazy:

Rich85

Check Sears, they sell a valve spring compressor. I used it last year when I replaced the valve stem seals on my '85. I don't remember how much I paid but I think it was under $50. It's the type that hooks onto the spring and you turn the handle to compress it. It worked very well with the heads still in the car.

AGENT 86

:iagree:
I bought one for ten bucks.
Works fine
:cheers:

ZylaRace

I've used the star wheel - double hook type, many times. If you try and do both heads in a day, you hands will feel mangled by the end of the day. You need to figure out how to work it so the hooks won't pop off the spring. i.e. It can be tricky, and a pain.

SS409 425HP

I bought a Snap On #S6121 compressor. Its the "bent bar" design. I used it to change the valve seals on my '87 L98 with the heads on the car. It worked fine with no problems at all.

HiTech5

I've done many spring swaps and would not use anything but the Summit type compressor. The nice thing is that you can lock the arm down with the spring compressed. It gives much more control and is safer.

geezel

I vote for the "bent bar" design. You can compress the springs in a matter of seconds. You need to remove the intakes runners to gain clearance for the bar.

JTHVETTE

I have all three mentioned. There are situations where all three may be needed. I prefer to use the "Summit" style. I would go ahead any buy all three styles prior to taking on this chore. Also don't forget to have some way to support the valves, so you don't drop one, such as compressed air.

Pete K

:iagree: If access to a good air supply (100 PSI) is difficult you could always use the rope trick. :cheers:

y5e06

you don't need compressed air or rope. Just put the cylinder at TDC. The valve will drop about half an inch but won't fall in. While you have everything off, replace the valve stem seals too. The new seals will be tight enought to hold the valve up when you are trying to install the keepers and retainer. Rotate the crank 90degrees and do the next cylinder in the firing order. Go rent the valve spring tool from autozone or the like. its free and works fine. If you want a pain in the butt spring change job, try doing it on an LT1 4th gen camaro. The vette is a breeze.

Pete K

:iagree: f- body is real tough