door locks/theft system
#1
6th Gear
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door locks/theft system
I apologize in advance for the long post!
My 1992 Convertible has acquired a gremlin in the electrical system.
I would love to hear from someone who has had a similar problem that can lead me in the right direction. The car has been bulletproof up to now.
Here are the symptoms/information -
1. A few months ago I noticed that opening the driver's door with the key was difficult (It may have been difficult for a long time as I rarely use it). I really had to bear down on the key to unlock it.
2. The driver's door lock on the inside seems to stick when using the remote to lock the car and/or the inside manual lock, but alway locked/unlocked
3. The other day I thought I had unlocked the car, thus disarming the alarm with the remote, but when I opened the door the horn sounded.
4. I jumped in the car, put the key in and the alarm stopped.
5. The car was performing perfectly (as it always does!) until I went to start it. The key turned, but nothing happened. No click, no cranking, no nothing. While I sat in the parking lot I tried the usual things thinking it was the battery. The radio would come on (antenna would go up) but no music. The headlights would not flip up. No power windows. The radio would go off when I pressed on the brake pedal (to light the tail lights). Simple. Get a jump.
6. The tow truck arrived and was unable to jump the car. It would turn over once, but not start. After several attempts we loaded it up and brought it home. At this point I figured I had a bad cell in the battery.
7. Today I walked into the garage to hear the car clicking. A very rapid click-click-click. After a couple minutes I realized it was coming from the doors. I tried to unlock them with the remote -nothing, tried the key -nothing, tried manually from the inside - nothing. It also sounded like it may have been clicking in the dash.
8. I disconnected the battery.
9. Just out of curiosity I put the volt meter on the battery and got 12 volts.
10. The service manual 8A-133-4 leads me to the CCM for some codes and some troubleshooting but before I start tearing into the car I thought I would see if someone has had the same issue and knows a shortcut.
Any help would be apprecaited! It was in the mid-80s down here in FL all day today and if the car had been running I could have avoided yard work!!!
rts
My 1992 Convertible has acquired a gremlin in the electrical system.
I would love to hear from someone who has had a similar problem that can lead me in the right direction. The car has been bulletproof up to now.
Here are the symptoms/information -
1. A few months ago I noticed that opening the driver's door with the key was difficult (It may have been difficult for a long time as I rarely use it). I really had to bear down on the key to unlock it.
2. The driver's door lock on the inside seems to stick when using the remote to lock the car and/or the inside manual lock, but alway locked/unlocked
3. The other day I thought I had unlocked the car, thus disarming the alarm with the remote, but when I opened the door the horn sounded.
4. I jumped in the car, put the key in and the alarm stopped.
5. The car was performing perfectly (as it always does!) until I went to start it. The key turned, but nothing happened. No click, no cranking, no nothing. While I sat in the parking lot I tried the usual things thinking it was the battery. The radio would come on (antenna would go up) but no music. The headlights would not flip up. No power windows. The radio would go off when I pressed on the brake pedal (to light the tail lights). Simple. Get a jump.
6. The tow truck arrived and was unable to jump the car. It would turn over once, but not start. After several attempts we loaded it up and brought it home. At this point I figured I had a bad cell in the battery.
7. Today I walked into the garage to hear the car clicking. A very rapid click-click-click. After a couple minutes I realized it was coming from the doors. I tried to unlock them with the remote -nothing, tried the key -nothing, tried manually from the inside - nothing. It also sounded like it may have been clicking in the dash.
8. I disconnected the battery.
9. Just out of curiosity I put the volt meter on the battery and got 12 volts.
10. The service manual 8A-133-4 leads me to the CCM for some codes and some troubleshooting but before I start tearing into the car I thought I would see if someone has had the same issue and knows a shortcut.
Any help would be apprecaited! It was in the mid-80s down here in FL all day today and if the car had been running I could have avoided yard work!!!
rts
#2
Heel & Toe
Member Since: Mar 2004
Location: Creighton Mo
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Re: door locks/theft system (rtslt1)
I have a 92 vert with an after market theft system mine is also hard to unlock with key did the 92 come with a remote keyless entry i bought mine used so dont know but when the resistence pellet on the key gets worn it will not start or any thing else check the # of resistence on the key see if consistant i think when you turn the lock it is having to move the drive on power lock
#3
Melting Slicks
Re: door locks/theft system (rtslt1)
rtslt1,
I'm thinking it's your battery. Many of those gremlins are likely caused by this (I've had my HVAC controls go nuts, wierd clicking behind the dash, etc)
The door lock cylinder may need lube... I recommend dry graphite for locks.
Regarding #3 and #4, keyless entry did not debut until '93, so your car has some sort of aftermarket alarm or keyless entry. Do you typically lock your doors using the interior door lock switch, or using the remote after the doors are closed? The latter method will not arm the factory alarm. Typically, extra installation steps are needed to disarm the factory alarm using an aftermarket remote.
(to fascar) #5, a worn or dirty ignition key pellet will cause VATS to kick in, but the SECURITY dash light should flash when the wrong resistance is read. But the radio, etc aren't coming on, which points to the battery instead...
Bottom line, I would swap the battery first. Good luck.
I'm thinking it's your battery. Many of those gremlins are likely caused by this (I've had my HVAC controls go nuts, wierd clicking behind the dash, etc)
The door lock cylinder may need lube... I recommend dry graphite for locks.
Regarding #3 and #4, keyless entry did not debut until '93, so your car has some sort of aftermarket alarm or keyless entry. Do you typically lock your doors using the interior door lock switch, or using the remote after the doors are closed? The latter method will not arm the factory alarm. Typically, extra installation steps are needed to disarm the factory alarm using an aftermarket remote.
(to fascar) #5, a worn or dirty ignition key pellet will cause VATS to kick in, but the SECURITY dash light should flash when the wrong resistance is read. But the radio, etc aren't coming on, which points to the battery instead...
Bottom line, I would swap the battery first. Good luck.