Hall1836

I have a 1985 how hard is it to change the oil pan gasket with the engine in the car? Can you get to all the nuts? Can I use the one piece oil pan gasket that was on later years? Should RTV be used inaddition to gasket? thanks for your responses.

86PACER

Not very hard. The 85 pan is a little different than the 86, but the process of removing it is basically the same. The main thing is to rotate the engine by the Crank pulley nut till the front Crank counterweight is up and allows the front of the oil pan to clear for removal. Unless you get lucky and the crank stops at the right location for you the last time you shut her off, you will need to do this. I had to remove the starter to gain access to some of the oil pan bolts. I also had to remove the 2 front cross braces that meet together just below the front of the oil pan also. They where preventing the front of my pan from going down enough to clear the Crank counterweights. Some guys have removed the pan with them in place, and some guys like me had to remove the braces to get the front of the pan to come down enough to clear the Crank counter weights. Each brace is held on by 4 bolts and 2 nuts.

Yes, all you need is a small 1/4" ratchet with an extension and a socket for the oil pan bolts. The 4 corner "studs" might have a male torx head like my 86 did. Just use a small normal socket to turn them. You don't need a torx.
If you end up having to remove the braces for clerance, use a back up wrench and a big 1/2" drive ratchet to remove the brace hardware. Those suckers in the front are on there tight. All can be done from under the car.

Just pick up a one piece gasket from Fel-Pro at a local parts store for your year. 84-85 oil pan gaskets are different from the 86-96 oil pan gasket. Do not use any other gasket but the Fel-Pro one peice. You will be glad you did. Check to make sure it's got a passanger side dipstick hole before you but it at the counter.

Yes, but for a better seal, use some Permatex "The Right Stuff" It's about $10 a can, but it is money well spent. The intructions that come with the Fel-Pro one piece gasket says to intall the gasket dry with no sealant. Lots of guys, including myself, like to add some sealant at the front, back and the 4 corners of the gasket for good measure. I have been leak free for months now using this method. You won't hurt anything. The tricky part will be holding the gasket aligned to the bolt holes durring reassembly while you install the pan back on. You can go about this a couple of ways:

1. Use the 4 blue platic studs that come with the Fel-Pro gasket. They screw into the 4 bolt holes of the engine block. Then you position the gasket, press it up to the block, and the studs will snap over the gasket and hold it up against the block for you while you install the pan. Then you remove them after the pan is secured to the block with a few pan bolts. I had to cut 2 of those plastic studs in half to make them shorter to allow me to slide the front of the pan into place.

2. Use a light coat of contact cement on the upper surface of the gasket that meets the engine block surface. This will hold the gasket up against the block for you while you install the pan and bolts. Tighten the bolts in a left side, right side sequence. Then go all the way arround with your ratchet and check that no bolt is left loose. Wipe off all old oil leaks on and arround the pan gasket areas with degreaser and a rag.

Install a new oil drain plug, oil filter, and new motor oil and your set.
Start the car, look under for any leaks. For the next few days crawl under the car with a light and check for any leaks.

important
Make sure you clean the gasket surfaces at the oil pan and block before reassembly. This is critical to achieving a leak free installation.

If your 4 corner "studs" have a small male torx head like my 86 did, make sure your small socket is on it square and straight before you turn it. If not, you might end up stripping the torx head, then you will have some fun trying to remove them cause you have nothing to grab them by. One of those little regulat 1/4" deep sockets (can't remember the size) fits that male torx head perfectly. Just dont turn it till it's on the head square and straight. Take your time. If you screw any of these up, that pan ain't coming off till that stud does.

Goodl luck.
:thumbs:




[Modified by 86PACER, 5:14 PM 4/5/2004]

ffvetteman

thats what I was gonna say... :jester