redbullapril23

i have a 1996 auto lt1


1 whats my final gear ratio?
2 do i have a dana 36 or a dana 44?
3 whats the difference?


ok this is what i know please someone correct me if im wrong!

the dana 44 is stronger than the dana 36. ok i hear people always talkibg about 3.54 and 3.73 gears. could i keep my dana 36 and just put 3.54 gears in it? im guessing that would be cheaper because id be replacing the pumpkin and not the whole batwing and axle..?
i hear you have to get a new driveshaft...is that if u do a 36 to 44 swap or just with swapping the gears too?


thanks alot

redbullapril23

ttt

bogus

The D36 has a smaller carrier... and the casing isn't as beefy.

The D36 comes with a base 2.59 gear. That is the standard gear in an auto. The optional gear is a 3.07. It is available with the Z07 suspension package, or, as a separate option. RPO G92 would be seen on the sticker, if you have the 3.07.

The max gear a D36 can deal with is 3.73.

A D44 is much stronger, all the way around. It is also able to deal with larger ring gears. I know they will take a 4.10, and perhaps a 4.56, beyond that, I don't know.

A used D44 is not a bad way to go, it starts with 3.45 gears, and that would really wake up your automatic!

redbullapril23

well, i see a guy selling dana 36 3.54 gears!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMESE%3AIT

1 would that be a good upgrade?
2 what could i expect to pick up on a 1/4 mile?
3 would they direct bolt on?
4. how much for someone to install?
5. what do you think would be a price that id call a steal?

thanks agian
sean

redbullapril23

ttt

Cherry6speed

I can help you out on this one. I would go with the 3.73 gear and have someone install it (pro shop) Stay away from the E-bay dana 36. You already have a good 36 and the gear swap isn't that difficult to do for a pro. Plan on paying someone 5 hours @ their shop rate. This would be average cost. If the say it takes longer, Pass. Buy the gears new and the install kit for around $500.00 and plan on 250-375.00 for labor. This will give you a ballpark. The install kit comes with new bearings, seals and everything a pro will need to do you a good job without taking any short cuts. This is not a job you want to cut corners on. If you do, it will come back as a noise or worse all the $$$ down the drain for new gears. Overall, if you avoid drag radials or slicks the Dana 36 will hold up fine for street use. If you try to stick it, it Will break so, go with the 44 if you plan to race it @ the track.

vader86

I'd expect to pay a pretty penny for install and such, but it has to be done right or it'll whine. $700+ total would be ballpark.

Try to find a reputable shop in your area.

On the LT1, I'd expect at least .2-.4 just from the gears.

redbullapril23

i want to keep dana 36 the 44 is too expensive for me!


well its a guy on the forum selling it.
he bought it for his 89 never installed it and then sold his car!

so i cant like drag race with this setup?
i dont plan on putting slicks on.

so you're saying i can get the install kit and the gears for $500 total?
and then pay about 300 for the install making it about $800 total?


ok 3.54 or 3.73 what are pros and cons?

vader86

You can drag race yes, slicks no.

Which gear you pick depends on the amount of hwy driving you do, youll get better times with the 3.73 though.

88421VETTE

the biggest diff is everyone wants a D44 and no one wants the D36 atleast thats how I feel why'd GM cheap out and run 2 diff rears?

bogus

Stock for stock, the D36 can't deal with the shock of gear changes in a manual.

Hence, the 2 diffs.

Corvette Kid

Don't forget about the 3.07 D44s in the 4+3 cars, also there were some factory 3.31 gears too, I believe.

CFI-EFI

The standard equipment ratio in the '84 was 3.07, auto OR manual. All '84's came with the Dana 36. The GW4, "performance" ratio was 3.31. The Z51 package HAD to be ordered in order to specify the performance ratio. It was NOT a part of the Z51 handling package. The 3.31 was the lowest ratio made for the Dana 36, by Dana/GM. The D44 ratio that is "close" is a 3.33.

RACE ON!!!

Mr Mojo

Think about it, out of approximately 380,000 C4's made, 80,000 had the manual with the D44, the rest were automatics. Do the math, they saved a ton of money using the 36 in all those girlamatics.(Would have been nice to really pass the savings on to us, but oh well)

redbullapril23

well i do a little of hwy driving how will it affect that?

redbullapril23

what makes the dana 36 weaker?

are the gears themselves weaker?

i bet i could get them ceramic coated and they would be alot stronger
as well with the gear box itself!

vader86

The more hwy driving you do, the worse your gas mileage will be with these gears, youll be cruising at a higher rpm. Thats why you must pick the 3.54s if you drive alot on the hwy, 3.73s will be worse.

The D36 is weaker because the parts arent as beefy. Ceramic coating will NOT make them stronger.

redbullapril23

oh ok.
the guy who does all my coatings says it helps strengthen and also helps with friction.
vader what did you think:
1. about that guys 3.54 gears he was selling?(in that link above) good deal or not?
2. what is the max i should pay for it?
3. would i need anything else for the swap?(im gonna have pros install this)
4. how much could i sell the old housing for?

redbullapril23

ttt

CFI-EFI

1.) You can't tell if it's a good deal until you see the selling price.
2.) He has detailed what he paid, including the core charge. Consider your options and decide what it is worth to you. Be aware that GM never offered a 3.54 Dana 36, so you won't find them growing on trees.
3.) NEED? Only a small amount of RTV to seal it to the rear cover (batwing), some gear grease, and GM posi additive. This WOULD be an ideal time to inspect the u joints, etc, but they aren't NEEDED for the swap. You CAN install it yourself.
4.) It depends on the ratio. Not a lot. $200.00-$300.00?

The Dana 36 is weaker that the 44, because it is physically smaller.

RACE ON!!!