ittlfly

I was trying to remove both the fill and drain plugs on the transmission using the 17mm hex head w/ 1/2" drive. But both plugs are like welded in there. I'm using a 1/2' breaker bar and neither plug will budge. Any suggestions before I take an impact gun to it?

90 Corvette ZR-1

try taking it for a drive get everything upto temp and try again

lite blue

I soaked mine in penetrating fluid for a couple of days before I tried them. They were tough, but not a big deal.

guinnessdood

Righty tighty left loosey??? Just a thought...

Aurora40

That's what I did and it helped immensely. I also used a blowtorch to add a little extra heat, though the driving is what seemed to really do it (as I tried the torch before the drive and they still wouldn't budge).

ittlfly

Thanks guys, I'll try the drive first as that seems to be the easiest at this point.

lbs90ZR

It wasn't pretty but it took a pair of vise grips clamped on of what was sticking out, which was almost not enough to get a hold of on mine.

willie mac

my plugs are pretty well buggered. has anyone come up with an alternative set up or are they still available from gm?

ZZZZZR1

Kurt White has them. As with many things on these cars, hold onto your wallet; a set of two (both the fill and the drain plugs are identical) set me back over $40 a couple of years ago.

Polo-1

If you are looking for other's that might fit, try ford super duty(99-06) with manual ZF 6 speed. I dont know if it's the same or not, but you might try

I would try to warm the the case not the plug with a small propane tourch, to remove

ittlfly

I just ran my little problem by Bill Boudreau (ZF Doc).... he has new plugs 2 for $5.50..... in case I used an impact gun....FWIW......

4cefed

You should drive it before you drain it anyway. It helps get the moisture out of the transmission with the fluid. If the plug is tight I use my handle extension from my floor jack to give it a little more leverage. Works everytime.

tomtom72

Not trying to be a smart a$$. This will not help to remove them but when you get yours out ..... take some teflon pipe tape & do some wraps before going back in.....makes it a bit easier the next time.

Good luck.....I fought with mine the first time also....the allen wrench from sears is for sure not the best tool! Went to A/Z & bought a 1/2" drive 17mm socket & still had to use my 17mm box on the sucker!


Tom

willie mac

5.50 for 2 vs 40. I know where I amgoing to go thank you. I still can't figure out why somethings are so high. like the 136 sealant I paid 84 for it . I called abud in texas. and he gets it retail all day long. I know people need to make money. I just wish they would either do better home work on finding what they sell or stop trying to f me at least kiss me first. I amsorry if I get an attitdude but I only make 2k a month after taxes. I hurt when one finds out stuff like this.

lbs90ZR

136 sealant I paid 84 for it . I called abud in texas. and he gets it retail all day long. QUOTE]

Who can you get the 136 from? I'll be needing some in the near future.

ZZZZZR1

phrogs

you dont need that sealant theres a sealant made by locktight that is the same thing and its less than $20 for the container of it! ill have to get the part number off mine when I get home

Trizney

Is the 136 Sealant what is needed when you remove the cam covers?

ittlfly

Well here's the update. I went for a long ride then took it immediately over to a friend with a hoist. We got on it with the a large cheater bar and all we managed to do was almost strip the fill plug out. We stopped before any damage was done. So I think I'll take it over to GM and let them do it....or at least loosen and retorque to 26' lbs. At 62, sometimes its easier to let someone else do it.

bldavis11

Don't kid yourself. I couldn't break mine without an impact hammer and I'm 26. You were right in your description of being "welded" in place. PB Blaster to the rescue!