rhipsher

My slave cylinder went out on my 90 zr1. So I replaced both the master and slave. Installed the knew ones. I bleed it 5 times until there was no more air comming out of the slave bleed screw. Just clutch fluid. I had my wife pump the clutch pedal 20 times then hold it down while I was under the car loosening the bleed screw then tighten it back up. But there is no where near as much preasure on the clutch pedal as there should be to disengage the clutch. So I just called it a night. So where might I have gone wrong?

Demps

Found it best to turn the cylinder upside down (must take it off of the bell housing) so the bleed screw is on the top while you are doing the "pump" and "release".

phrogs

I reverse bleed mine with one of the mity vacs

Put it on the bleed screw and pump the fluid in

USAFPILOT

Did you get the plunger thing seated, reinstalled from the old slave properly, could it have come loose in there? Is the fluid draining from the reservior when you pump it?

Dominic Sorresso

That's the way I do it! Also make sure the seals are in right on both the master and slave.

-=Jeff=-

Master should be fine.. no issues found with the master seals that I know of

When/Where did you buy the Slave, I think they are just now (within the last few months) getting them right, it does sound like you have a bad Slave Seal though..

just search my username with clutch lists in the C4 tech section I fought this for 6 months in 2006. I got it working in time to put the car away for winter then.. that was when Bill found and I confirmed the bad slaves

rhipsher

I kept wondering where this little leak I had was comming from for the last 8 months. Now I know. It had been leaking clutch fluid out of the rubber boot into the bell housing. Also the previous owner that had the car for two years also noticed it. In the last 8 or 9 months since I've owned the car. I've chased down a secondary vacume leak code 61 bad actuator and bad vacume solinoid and fixed it. Had a drivers side catylatic converter decide to exit the rear exhaust and had to swap both exhaust manifolds and cats out. On the later z's the cats are just bolted on to the manifolds. On the early ones their welded on so you can't just replace the cats. You have to remove the entire manifold as one piece. It took me 18 hours to complete it. And now the clutch slave and master. But this is all stuff that needed to be fixed long before I had the car. The two previous owners were made of money and really didn't care about the car like I do. So if I hadn't ended up with the car it would never have got fixed and would have just collected dust in their garage.

willyszr1

i know what you mean the guy that owned the callaway snat 475 before me broke off one of the bolts that hoild the top on .used pipe straps to hold on the exhaust . . never fix the airconditioner . stk high side connector . took off the original wheels and subed them with the cheap crome zr1 wheels and put the old gooyear gsc s on kept the clear top to try to sell on the registry. never lubed the front end and according to his records changed the oil last in 05. it is just sad that people treat a special car like trash . she will allways have a good home here . for 2 reasons its a very special car one of 9 callaway 475 snat and the car the wife wanted more than anything .

ckulchar

Sounds like it found the perfect home.

rhipsher

Well its friday evening. And now I'm getting ready to find out what the hey is going on with this slave cylinder. Once I remove the slave then I'm going to take a screw driver stick it in the belhousing and push on that tab that disengages the clutch. If I can get it to disengage manually then I know for sure its the slave cylinder. That means either the seal is installed incorrectly, or the rod in the new one is not long enough to fully reach.

Jagdpanzer

rhipsher:
Where did you get the parts to fix the slave cylinder?
Mine is starting to have the same problem.

rhipsher

At the local auto parts store. I just bought a new slave and master cylinder $175.00.

rhipsher

Well I removed the new slave and now it looks like the old one. Fully extended as long as the old one. The only thing holding the plunger pin on is the rubber boot. So I took a long screw driver and a dental mirror to see where the center of the tab where the plunger pushes and I started to push on it to see if it would move and spring back. I was able to push it 1/16 of an inch thats it. Unless it takes way more force than a human is capable of to push it enough to engage it. I think the spring inside of it is broke.

rhipsher

Well my worst fear has been comfirmed. Took some long needle nose 30 degree pliers and I can push and pull on that tab inside the bell housing freely. What ever its attached to is brooken. So there was nothing wrong with the slave or the master cylinder at all. The slave cylinder fully extended was never going to reach it anyway. Its broke and pushed all the way back. I guess this means I'm going to have to drop the transmission to get inside the bell housing. Has anybody on this forum had the same problem and fixed it. And am I looking at another big job.