TomsZR1

I'm looking for an oil pan gasket for a 1990 ZR1, LT5 engine. part number 10106193

Any help would be appreciated

dbriana

You can get one from Kurt White if you want to pay $128 plus shipping.

Aurora40

I bought mine from Kurt White. However, I'd definitely check with Jerry now that he's offering some new stuff:

http://www.zr1netregistry.com/forum/...ead.php?t=5474

LT5corsa

Jerry's da man!

Goldcylon

Go to Jerry First. No doubt fair prices and a great guy.

A26B

I will be able to furnish the 375 hp pan gasket in about 2~3 weeks. Tooling is being made now. Gasket cost will be $75.00.

During gasket & seal R&D, I discovered crucial info about the oil pan gasket & oil pickup tube seal (o-ring). There are aftermarket gaskets made that are too thick which may cause oil pump cavitation by not enabling the o-ring to compress & seal properly. In fact, the OEM gasket & o-ring does not reverse engineer for proper o-ring compression.

I realize that the LT5 has demonstrated extraordinary durability. During inspection of several engines a couple of years ago, I noticed bearing patterns that diagnosed as cavitation effect. At the time I didn't know about the o-ring seal compression. Only when I started working on the o-ring seal did the bearing cavitation pattern make sense. What few bearing failures I've heard of , are usually associated with main bearings. I have contacted Graham Behan about the findings. He is researching and will get back to me.

The other problem associated with OEM pan gaskets are leaks. I think this is due to the fact that none of the pan bolts are isolated from the crankcase with the silicon seal present on the gasket. In effect, this allows oil & pressure to the bolt & tapped hole because the gasket is not compressed as much in this area due to the silicon bead. Gasket compression is a factor in the bolt torque. Different gasket materials compress at different rates and amounts. As the gasket reacts to clamping force and operating environment, the bolts can become "looser" than spec torque, resulting in leaks. This is evidenced by the fact that tightening the bolts often eliminates the pan leaks common on LT5 engines.

My gaskets are of high quality, using a fully cured nitrile butadiene rubber binder with minimal compression, no silicon bead and are slightly modified to increase the seal contact area. My gasket compresses to the same thickness as the OEM gasket. I also sell a different size oil pick up tube seal o-ring than OEM which definitely compresses to design specs with either my gasket or the OEM gasket.

I recommend these factors be strongly considered before using any other gaskets.

Jerry

TomsZR1

Thanks for the tip, however, I'm new to this site. Who's Jerry?

Aurora40

The guy who posted just before you: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...42&postcount=6 Also, the guy in the link in my reply.

TomsZR1

Thanks for the input. I'm very familiar with gasket compression and the effect torque has on it, etc. My background is the engineering and maintenance of gas turbines and other large HP rotating machinery.

let me run this past you.

We have an aluminum block with steel bolts. The block goes through hot and cold cycles. The expansion of aluminum is over 2x that of steel. It's been my experience that the aluminum expands away from the steel when it heats and releases the bolt, over time they come loose. I feel this is why mine keep coming loose.


My pan has been leaking for a while and bolts kept coming loose so I decided to change the gasket and use another bolting technique.

It's my intention to get rid of the bolts. I'm going to install allen head set screws with red Loctite. I will bury the screws tight into the bottom of the hole and use a nylock nut on the stud. I've done this successfully in many other dissimilar metal applications with good success.

I'm on the fence about the gasket. I'm thinking of stoning the surfaces and using a good high temp RTV. I know this will change the compression of the Oring, but a good silicone Oring with a lower durometer will handle the increased compression.

let me know your thoughts

I have a lot of work scheduled for my Z, I would like to find out more about the products you offer. Catalog? Website?

FYI oil cavitation

It's been my experience that an air leak in the suction side of a pump leads to cavitation in the pump.

Cavitation in a fluid film bearing is usually caused by a break down of the oil wedge at the interaction of the crank pin (or main shaft) and bearing. The most common cause of this is low or unstable oil pressure. Small amounts of water in the oil will do this too.

A26B

Interesting! I have similar experience, working with hi speed steam turbines & gas compressors.


I'm sure it's a component in the scenario.

Sounds like a good approach. Maybe a little overkill, but certainly a solution.

The end results of RTV will be variable, depending on the degree of curing that occurs before pan installation and how effectively it ends up over the mating surfaces. Insofar as the o-ring goes, the amount of available space in the o-ring groove comes into play with over compression. In the case of the subject o-ring groove, the groove will handle the OEM o-ring compressed completely as if no gasket were installed.

Personally, I think the gasket with a properly sized o-ring is the way to go.


Send me an email to A26B@aol.com. I'll get back to you.

Certainly, and that's the case in discussion here. I don't think that a bearing wear pattern called "cavitation" means that the cavitation actually ocurred in the bearing, but rather is wear/damage that ocurred from vapor/air entrained in the oil as a result of cavitation in the pump. It's my opinion that the OEM o-ring is not properly sized and allowed some amount of crankcase vapors to enter the suction of the oil pump at the pan/lwr crankcase interface which is above the oil level & windage tray. Why it is evident in some engines and not others is a good question. Assuming all OEM pan gaskets & o-rings were created equally, bolt torque & clamping force is about all that's left.

rhipsher

Why don't you just use the socket head bolts like you plan to, with lock washers before going the lock tight rout?

nickzvette

where are you located? I just happened to stop at a chevy dealer today in Nashville .JIM REED CHEVY I ordered plenum gaskets for $64.00they might be able to get what you want also...

A26B

He's not referring to allen head cap screws, but rather a long allen head set screw which is essentially a section of threaded bolt stock with a knurled set point on one end and allen socket IN the other end, like a piece of all thread. Works like a stud when used like this. Then a special nut is installed on the exposed threads to prevent accidental loosening.

Jerry

rhipsher

Gotcha.

lbs90ZR

flatoutgaskets in chicago has been making them for a while for $23 if your close to there or need one fast.

81c3

That actually sounds like a great idea.

A26B

Make sure you do your homework on the oil pickup tube seal (o-ring) and pan gasket thickness........ might cost you an engine.