E3 Spark Plugs
01-19-2011, 06:07 PM
#2
I have not tried them in my Z. I did put them in my 92 m6 trying to get it to pass smog. The car passed but I didn't notice any change good or bad. I think the hype is for more efficiency. FWIW
01-24-2011, 10:57 PM
#6
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01-25-2011, 12:11 PM
#8
Team Owner
Pro Mechanic
There is zero improvement from changing to those or any other "gimmick" spark plug. If the plug provides a place for a spark to jump a gap...that is all it can do. Doing so in the least shrouded way possible can help...but none of the gimmick plugs accomplish that -inspite of what their marketing hoopla claims.
A friend of mine put E3's in his Volvo X90. They disintigrated due to being the wrong heat range (though he followed the recommondation for his vehicle on their web site), and the shrapnel cost him a $4000.00 head rebuild job. Stick with what works and is a reasonable price. Seek power increases else where....where they actually work.
A friend of mine put E3's in his Volvo X90. They disintigrated due to being the wrong heat range (though he followed the recommondation for his vehicle on their web site), and the shrapnel cost him a $4000.00 head rebuild job. Stick with what works and is a reasonable price. Seek power increases else where....where they actually work.
01-25-2011, 08:03 PM
#10
Le Mans Master
you can only lite the fire but so good. trust the MPH at the track and back to back dyno runs will tell you about performance gains than the butt dyno and how the car feels seat of the pants
tried a bunch of fancy plugs and they are good at making your wallet lighter but not much in terms of improving LT5 performance
CFM and tuning is where you should spend your money not trying to lite off the mix "better"
factory coils and plugs are good to 700 plus hp once you make more than that, you can worry more about the "problem"
factory plugs work just fine
01-25-2011, 08:07 PM
#11
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01-25-2011, 11:18 PM
#12
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CI 5-6-7-8-9-10-11-12 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11-12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-‘18-'19-'20-'21-'22-'23
NCM Sinkhole Donor
There is zero improvement from changing to those or any other "gimmick" spark plug. If the plug provides a place for a spark to jump a gap...that is all it can do. Doing so in the least shrouded way possible can help...but none of the gimmick plugs accomplish that -inspite of what their marketing hoopla claims.
A friend of mine put E3's in his Volvo X90. They disintigrated due to being the wrong heat range (though he followed the recommondation for his vehicle on their web site), and the shrapnel cost him a $4000.00 head rebuild job. Stick with what works and is a reasonable price. Seek power increases else where....where they actually work.
A friend of mine put E3's in his Volvo X90. They disintigrated due to being the wrong heat range (though he followed the recommondation for his vehicle on their web site), and the shrapnel cost him a $4000.00 head rebuild job. Stick with what works and is a reasonable price. Seek power increases else where....where they actually work.
Well stated.
01-25-2011, 11:49 PM
#13
Racer
I think that you need to leave that term to the pilots. It doesn't work when driving. I know. I do both. There is a hell of a lot of difference between the two. Jet and Vettes. Light years apart. FWIW, I don't think that there is any hp increase with E3's.
03-28-2016, 07:35 PM
#15
Melting Slicks
What are you guys using if not the e3 and what is the proper e3 number for the LT-5?
I bought a set for my 90 because they didn't have any other plugs available at the time for the LT-5.. I have not installed them yet. I am not sure the local part store guy knows what an LT-5 is so I thought it best to check before installing them and by the looks of it.. glad I did.
I was looking to install the Bosch platinum but again they didn't have a listing for it. grrr who would think finding something as simple as a spark plug could be such a hassle.
I bought a set for my 90 because they didn't have any other plugs available at the time for the LT-5.. I have not installed them yet. I am not sure the local part store guy knows what an LT-5 is so I thought it best to check before installing them and by the looks of it.. glad I did.
I was looking to install the Bosch platinum but again they didn't have a listing for it. grrr who would think finding something as simple as a spark plug could be such a hassle.
03-29-2016, 09:50 AM
#16
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Exotic plugs are not needed for the LT5. Save them for your transverse mounted front wheel drive V6 or V8 vehicle where there is little or no access to the plugs.
The AC/Delco 41-602s run beautifully in the LT5, and a set will only set you back less than $20 including tax. At that price, coupled with the low mileage/year most ZR-1s are driven, one can have fresh plugs in the motor ALL the time if only changed once every year or so.
Pete uses them in his 11.04 second LT5 and several other FBI'ers racing these cars use them too. I'm using them now and have been since 07 when I bought the car, even after the 500+ hp mods. The car runs great!!!
The AC/Delco 41-602s run beautifully in the LT5, and a set will only set you back less than $20 including tax. At that price, coupled with the low mileage/year most ZR-1s are driven, one can have fresh plugs in the motor ALL the time if only changed once every year or so.
Pete uses them in his 11.04 second LT5 and several other FBI'ers racing these cars use them too. I'm using them now and have been since 07 when I bought the car, even after the 500+ hp mods. The car runs great!!!
Last edited by Paul Workman; 04-02-2016 at 04:28 PM. Reason: typo corrected
03-31-2016, 12:27 AM
#18
Pro Mechanic
Pro Mechanic
E3 spark plugs are nothing more than marketing bull-poop.
Three things you need to know about plugs for LT5s.
1) Even stockers need a colder plug. The original LT5 plug, developed for the 90s, was the FR1-LS, a 3/4-reach, flat seat, projected tip plug. It was selected because it gave the best overall street performance. Just before production began, that was changed to the FR2-LS because of concerns about "pre-delivery fouling" which is basically, problems caused by car dealers who start cars up, move them 50-ft on the lot, then shut them off and do that several times before the car is delivered to a customer. Obviously, 99% of ZR-1 owners never drive like that and should switch to something in the AC 1 heat range, which about the same as the NGK 6 heat range or the Denso 20 heat range.
2) Starting in 1993, LT5s used a taper seat plug, however, the early heads can be converted to taper sets by doing a one-time over-torque of a taper seat spark plug to 22-24-lbs/ft ft then backing off and tightening them to 15-17-lbs/ft. That forms the taper seat
3) You may love today's ACDelco spark plugs, but heat range data for them is hard to get. The 41-825 is similar to the FR1-LS which is correct for 90-92 heads which have not been "converted" as per above. The 41-104 is an AC 1 heat range plug with a taper set. If you like Delcos, use them.
4) The best I've found in about 20 years of testing plugs in my '95 is the Denso IT-22. It's actually one range colder than the original LT5 plug (FR1-LS) and two ranges colder than what virtually all plug manufacturers suggest for LT5s but I've used them for years in all kinds of driving, street around town, long-distance highway, tracking and chassis dyno testing. I've never fouled an IT-22 and they last quite a while. I started using them in the early-00s and since then I've put about 50,000 miles on my engine and only have used two sets. Denso IT-22s are in the "Iridium Power" line and feature a projected tip, an Iridium fine wire center electrode, a nickel side electrode which is u-grooved and has a cut back tip.
Three things you need to know about plugs for LT5s.
1) Even stockers need a colder plug. The original LT5 plug, developed for the 90s, was the FR1-LS, a 3/4-reach, flat seat, projected tip plug. It was selected because it gave the best overall street performance. Just before production began, that was changed to the FR2-LS because of concerns about "pre-delivery fouling" which is basically, problems caused by car dealers who start cars up, move them 50-ft on the lot, then shut them off and do that several times before the car is delivered to a customer. Obviously, 99% of ZR-1 owners never drive like that and should switch to something in the AC 1 heat range, which about the same as the NGK 6 heat range or the Denso 20 heat range.
2) Starting in 1993, LT5s used a taper seat plug, however, the early heads can be converted to taper sets by doing a one-time over-torque of a taper seat spark plug to 22-24-lbs/ft ft then backing off and tightening them to 15-17-lbs/ft. That forms the taper seat
3) You may love today's ACDelco spark plugs, but heat range data for them is hard to get. The 41-825 is similar to the FR1-LS which is correct for 90-92 heads which have not been "converted" as per above. The 41-104 is an AC 1 heat range plug with a taper set. If you like Delcos, use them.
4) The best I've found in about 20 years of testing plugs in my '95 is the Denso IT-22. It's actually one range colder than the original LT5 plug (FR1-LS) and two ranges colder than what virtually all plug manufacturers suggest for LT5s but I've used them for years in all kinds of driving, street around town, long-distance highway, tracking and chassis dyno testing. I've never fouled an IT-22 and they last quite a while. I started using them in the early-00s and since then I've put about 50,000 miles on my engine and only have used two sets. Denso IT-22s are in the "Iridium Power" line and feature a projected tip, an Iridium fine wire center electrode, a nickel side electrode which is u-grooved and has a cut back tip.
Last edited by Hib Halverson; 03-31-2016 at 12:27 AM.
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04-02-2016, 04:26 PM
#19
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Yes; a TYPO (SHOULD BE 11.04 (sorry!
) I'll change it!BTW, I removed these AC Delco 41-602s yesterday; one season on them - approx 2500 miles. I was a little bit concerned b/c they are so white. But, checking w/ Marc Haibeck, it is typical of these plugs, and nothing is wrong at all. Works for me! FYI.
Last edited by Paul Workman; 04-02-2016 at 05:27 PM.
04-03-2016, 02:50 PM
#20
Melting Slicks
E3 spark plugs are nothing more than marketing bull-poop.
Three things you need to know about plugs for LT5s.
1) Even stockers need a colder plug. The original LT5 plug, developed for the 90s, was the FR1-LS, a 3/4-reach, flat seat, projected tip plug. It was selected because it gave the best overall street performance. Just before production began, that was changed to the FR2-LS because of concerns about "pre-delivery fouling" which is basically, problems caused by car dealers who start cars up, move them 50-ft on the lot, then shut them off and do that several times before the car is delivered to a customer. Obviously, 99% of ZR-1 owners never drive like that and should switch to something in the AC 1 heat range, which about the same as the NGK 6 heat range or the Denso 20 heat range.
2) Starting in 1993, LT5s used a taper seat plug, however, the early heads can be converted to taper sets by doing a one-time over-torque of a taper seat spark plug to 22-24-lbs/ft ft then backing off and tightening them to 15-17-lbs/ft. That forms the taper seat
3) You may love today's ACDelco spark plugs, but heat range data for them is hard to get. The 41-825 is similar to the FR1-LS which is correct for 90-92 heads which have not been "converted" as per above. The 41-104 is an AC 1 heat range plug with a taper set. If you like Delcos, use them.
4) The best I've found in about 20 years of testing plugs in my '95 is the Denso IT-22. It's actually one range colder than the original LT5 plug (FR1-LS) and two ranges colder than what virtually all plug manufacturers suggest for LT5s but I've used them for years in all kinds of driving, street around town, long-distance highway, tracking and chassis dyno testing. I've never fouled an IT-22 and they last quite a while. I started using them in the early-00s and since then I've put about 50,000 miles on my engine and only have used two sets. Denso IT-22s are in the "Iridium Power" line and feature a projected tip, an Iridium fine wire center electrode, a nickel side electrode which is u-grooved and has a cut back tip.
Three things you need to know about plugs for LT5s.
1) Even stockers need a colder plug. The original LT5 plug, developed for the 90s, was the FR1-LS, a 3/4-reach, flat seat, projected tip plug. It was selected because it gave the best overall street performance. Just before production began, that was changed to the FR2-LS because of concerns about "pre-delivery fouling" which is basically, problems caused by car dealers who start cars up, move them 50-ft on the lot, then shut them off and do that several times before the car is delivered to a customer. Obviously, 99% of ZR-1 owners never drive like that and should switch to something in the AC 1 heat range, which about the same as the NGK 6 heat range or the Denso 20 heat range.
2) Starting in 1993, LT5s used a taper seat plug, however, the early heads can be converted to taper sets by doing a one-time over-torque of a taper seat spark plug to 22-24-lbs/ft ft then backing off and tightening them to 15-17-lbs/ft. That forms the taper seat
3) You may love today's ACDelco spark plugs, but heat range data for them is hard to get. The 41-825 is similar to the FR1-LS which is correct for 90-92 heads which have not been "converted" as per above. The 41-104 is an AC 1 heat range plug with a taper set. If you like Delcos, use them.
4) The best I've found in about 20 years of testing plugs in my '95 is the Denso IT-22. It's actually one range colder than the original LT5 plug (FR1-LS) and two ranges colder than what virtually all plug manufacturers suggest for LT5s but I've used them for years in all kinds of driving, street around town, long-distance highway, tracking and chassis dyno testing. I've never fouled an IT-22 and they last quite a while. I started using them in the early-00s and since then I've put about 50,000 miles on my engine and only have used two sets. Denso IT-22s are in the "Iridium Power" line and feature a projected tip, an Iridium fine wire center electrode, a nickel side electrode which is u-grooved and has a cut back tip.
Just a quick question. I have been using the tapered plugs on my 90 for the last 10 or so years and currently have a set in the car but my question is.. if I have a tapered plug installed is it ok to return to a gasketed plug? Reason I ask, I found a set of Delco gasketed plugs among all my spare 90 parts and was thinking of using those. As well the local parts store only lists the 90-92 plugs for all J coded engines.. they do not have a listing for the later 93-95 plugs. I know this might seem like a silly question and I am usually quite knowledgeable when it comes to these cars but this plug thing has me wondering what to use.