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The Removal and Installation of Harmonic Balancer/Front Cover is one of the last posts (Post 199) normally accomplished with a complete LT5 Restoration. Often, however, the inspection of the Timing Chain Guides is the sole purpose of removing an engine and as such is included here as one of the last posts (Post 199).
1. Some related technical information regarding Main Bearing Caps and Liners provided by Marc Haibeck. Haibeck Automotive Technology
A. The tightening procedure for the crankshaft caps is:
- Caps 1,3 & 5. Tighten to 30 lb. ft. and then turn 45 - 50 degrees.
- Caps 2 & 4. Tighten to 15 lb. ft. and then turn 78 - 83 degrees.
B. The tightening procedure for the Piston Rod Bolts is:
22 ft-lbs plus 80 - 85 deg turn.
C. The A and B liners can be mixed into any engine as long as the matching A or B piston is also used. The pistons are match fitted to the liners with respect to piston to wall clearance. '90 to '92 pistons and rods are interchangeable. '93 to '95 pistons and rods are lighter and can't be used on an earlier engine except as a full set of eight. Then the crankshaft needs to be lightened to match.
2. Block cleaned/degreased
3. Removal and Installation of Piston Liners
This engine had sat for a long while and a couple cylinders had minor damage where the rings had been in contact with the liner for a long time with the valves open for that cylinder. As a precaution I decided to replace the Liners with new rings for three or possibly four cylinders. Since I had the Bottom End Pistons totally removed for Inspection of the rods, pistons and rings, I decided to replace ALL rod bearings with new Rod Bolts.
LT5 Piston Liner Removal Tool
I came up with a tool to easily Remove Liners (Removal of number 4 liner shown). The Removal of Number 3 and 4 liners have additional difficulty because of the Crankshaft Position Sensor Wheel. The beauty of this Liner Removal Tool is that once the Liner is pulled approximately 3 inches the Top Nut is further tightened to capture the Liner between the Top and Bottom Plate. The whole unit including the Liner then becomes solid as if one piece and by then the Liner is pulled far enough to have a looseness that you can wiggle the whole assembly out of the block with nothing falling loose.
Initial breakout of the Liner surprisingly does not take much force at all with the Liner Removal Tool.
Wood Blocks on the Top of the Block to protect ............Liner Removed showing Liner Removal Tool fully retracted.
the Block Surface. The ALL thread has a two flats..........Once fully retracted the Liner is compressed by the Liner
on the top inch of thread to hold from turning. .............Removal tool and the liner can then be removed by hand.
The Components are made from 1/2 inch aluminum plate and one 12 inch long x 1/2 inch All Thread Rod.
There is absolutely NO damage to any aluminum surfaces of the Block during this Liner Removal.
The 1/2 inch x 12 inch All thread rod has two FLATS
on the Top End (end with blocks) so the rod can be
prevented from turning as the Top Nut is tightened.
A. Installing New Piston Sleeve/Liner and Piston (Information provided by Ben - bdw18_123)
1. How much Loctite 565 did you use and where?
The LT5 manual calls for a 12mm (.47 in.) wide band of sealer around the entire circumference of the liner, 25.4mm (1.0 in.) from the base of the liner (the parts that touch the surface when you set the liner down).
However, before you glue the liner in, you have to set the liner in place without glue first and measure the liner 'standout height' to make sure it is within spec. This is extremely critical because the head gasket can compensate for only a very small variance between the liners and cylinder case deck.
IMPORTANT!
Liner must be installed with flats positioned 90 degrees to crankshaft axis (flats facing front and rear of cylinder case).
Flats of adjacent liners should be parallel so that a small gap exists between them.
MEASURE
Measure liner standout height. This distance from the cylinder case deck to the lower ridge at the top of the liner should be 0.001 - 0.003 in. If standout height is not within specification, inspect liner ridge for damage, dirt or burrs. Clean as required. Recheck standout height. If still not within specification, Inspect Cylinder case liner seat for damage, dirt or burrs. Clean as required. Recheck standout height. If still not within specification, Replace cylinder liner. Recheck standout height.
Measure the liner for out-of-round and taper (a new liner should be OK in this regard).
Once the standout height is within spec, the liner can be glued in place.
2. Do all the sleeves fit the same way or does it depend on a cylinder by cylinder basis?
The cutouts are symmetrical at the base of the liner. The flats of each liner should be facing each other.
3. Can you just push that new sleeve/liner in or does that take some clamping to get the new sleave in place? Or tapping in with wood block and hammer?
You shouldn't need to tap or hit the liner at all to put it in place. It should just slide right in real easily. The only reason you need the puller to remove a liner is because of the glue.
4. Do you have to hold that new liner in place for how long?
The manual doesn't mention any specific time frame, it just says to install the cylinder liner retainers and leave them in place until head installation. You can make liner retainers using sockets and the head bolts.
5. Did you hone the new sleeve/liner to make sure the new rings seat?
No, because the manual specifically says: "DO NOT hone cylinder liners!", which I assume is due to the hardened nikasil coating. Completely different deal compared to what you would do in this case on, say, an iron block. So yeah, definitely don't do that.
6. Which way do the rings go on the piston?
Top compression ring should be installed with chamfer (or bevel) facing downward.
Second compression ring should be installed with manufacturer mark (TOP) facing upward.
Rings should be installed with gaps spaced approximately 120 degrees apart from one another.
7. Installing Piston
The Ring Comressor is closed around the piston after the rings are installed. The inside of the New Piston Sleeve/Liner and New Piston outside diameter (including rings) are lubricated with engine oil. The Piston with Ring Compressor is then set in place inside the New Piston Sleeve/Liner with the Ring Compressor sitting in contact with the top of the New Piston Sleeve (not inside the sleeve/liner). The New Piston is then gently (making sure the piston is not cocked one way or the other) tapped into the New Piston Sleeve with the wooden end of a hammer.
Notes:
1. The arrow on the top of the piston should point towards the front of the engine and the chamfer (or bevel) on the journal end of the rod should face the crankshaft counterweight.
2. The Connecting Rod Bolts should not be reused as they are stressed into yield during assembly. The Connecting Rod Bolts (threads and cap lubricated with engine oil) are torqued to 22 ft-lbs + 80 deg additional turn (no loctite). The original Connecting Rod Bolts have a 12 pt 14 mm head and new ARP Connecting Rod Bolts from Marc Haibeck have a 12 pt 13 mm head.
3. Lubricate both halves of the Rod Bearings and the Crankshaft Journal with engine oil before assembly.
B. Removal and Restoration of the Oil Pan
For those like myself who use Permatex on oil and water component gaskets (water pump, oil pan, oil filter adapter) you may find those components are difficult to remove (even with all the bolts removed). See Item #1b of Use of thread Lubricants, Loctite and Sealants
I have a method involving Poundable, Washer Wedges that works perfectly every time without any damage to the gasket surfaces. The more Washer Wedges you use the easier the removal becomes (I use three on a side of the Oil Pan).
Two beveled washers are held up with magnetic sticks for the photo.
Oil Pan with gasket and Oil Pick Up "O" ring. Permatex on each side of gasket The Permatex (let the Permatex dry with gasket for 15 minutes) keeps the gasket in place during Oil Pan installation.
The two Armature Bearings shown installed on each end of the Armature in the photo were replaced (pulling the bearings with a small bearing puller)
The moving Solenoid contacts were wire brushed and the fixed contacts were shined up with emery cloth.
The Starter Solenoid is shown in the left photo with slight burnt contacts in right photo.
The Solenoid contacts in left photo were wire brushed clean in right photo.
Also use a bit of emery cloth on the two fixed contacts.
The Starter was then tested connecting a Battery Jumper Cable from the Battery positive to the Starter Input. Then Battery negative was connected to the Starter Housing. I then used a small jumper from the Starter Solenoid onnector touching the Starter Input (which was Hot being connected to the Battery positive). The Starter Functioned Perfectly.
Restoration of the Injectors
Stock Injectors measure 12-13 Ohms and I am assuming 14 ohms on all the Ford #19 Injectors?
The Ford 19 lb injectors were wire brushed with new "O" rings installed and resistance checked.
1. Stock vrs Ford #19 Injectors
The stock Delphi Multec Injector is on the left and the Ford #19 Injector is on the right.
The little plastic cap ( pintle cap) on the Ford #19 Secondary Injector stays with the injector as installed and keeps the "O" ring from falling off the Injector and inside the Injector Housing.
2. Ford #19s found on several LT5s
I have found the Ford #19 injectors on three LT5s I have restored so far and the resistance of these (Ford #19) injectors in photos is 14 ohms within 1 ohm on all injectors. One set of those (Ford #19) has the pintle cap and another set did not. Some guys remove the plastic pintle cap which is suppose to be left in place during installation of the secondary injector.
I have not found one of these injectors (Ford #19) with resistance not within an ohm of 14 ohms. I left one set of (Ford #19) in the restoration of one LT5 and it runs perfectly. I will use a spare set of these injectors in a 1991 LT5 I am now restoring.
3. Sizing Injectors
I am assuming the Ford #19 are 19 lb injectors rated at a fuel pressure of 39.15 psi.....read that somewhere
Horsepower = (Fuel Injector Rating)(Duty %)(Quantity of Injectors)/(BSFC)
If we assume Brake Specific Fuel Consumption (BSFC) of .50 lbs of fuel per hour per horsepower......
The Injector Rating required for 500 hp (80% duty cycle and 16 injectors)..... We would get 19.53 lbs/hr for each injector is required for 500 horsepower.
We have for the Ford #19s Injectors a Fuel Flow Rate Increase since the Ford #19s are rated at 39.15 psi Fuel Pressure and we operate at 43.5 psi Fuel Pressure. We have square root of Actual Pressure/Rated Pressure or square root of 43.5/39.15 = 1.054 x 19 lbs/hr = 20.03 lbs/hr actual flow rate of Ford #19s (at the higher Fuel Pressure of 43.5 psi) which is greater than the 19.53 lbs/hr required for 500 hp.
Another way of looking at the Ford #19 Injector Capabilities......
For the Ford #19s in an LT5......Horsepower = (19)(1.054)(.80)(16)/.50 = 512.7 hp
4. As a comparison I have calculated the use of RC SL4 205s.....
I use RC SL4-205 injectors in a 1991 500 horsepower LT5 which RC Injectors are 20 lb rated at a Fuel Pressure of 43.5 psi.
You would use RC 225s for 650 hp or more.
Horsepower = (Fuel Injector Rating)(Duty %)(Quantity of Injectors)/(BSFC)
If we assume Brake Specific Fuel Consumption (BSFC) of .50 lbs of fuel per hour per horsepower......
The Injector Rating required for 500 hp (80% duty cycle and 16 injectors)..... We would get 19.53 lbs/hr for each injector is required for 500 horsepower.
There would be NO correction for Fuel Pressure Differences on the Injector Flow Rate since RCs are tested at the same pressure we are operating with in the LT5 (43.5 psi Fuel Pressure). 20 lbs/hr actual flow rate of RC 205s is greater than the 19.53 lbs/hr required for 500 hp.
Another way of looking at the RC 205s Injector Capabilities.......
For the RC 205s in an LT5......Horsepower = (20)(1.0)(.80)(16)/.50 = 512 hp
Bottom Line......the Ford #19s are equal to the RC 205s as used in an LT5 Application (16 Injectors) with 43.5 psi Fuel Pressure available.
5. Injector Offset explanation direct from RC Engineering.
A fuel injector’s offset time is the minimum amount of time it takes for an injector valve to move from fully-closed to fully-opened. Generally, most injectors will open fully within 1.0 milliseconds, at 13.5 Volts and 43.5 psi (3 BAR) of fuel pressure. With that said, small flow rate injectors usually open faster than large flow rate injectors because small flowing injectors will have smaller valves, less mass, and less weight. Also, the higher the voltage, the quicker the opening time (smaller offset). Conversely, the higher the fuel pressure, the slower the opening time.
Similar-sized injectors, like the stock LT5 injectors and RC Engineering’s SL4-205 injectors, will have very similar offset times and similar electronic characteristic all together. If you change to a significantly larger injector (20% more or larger), then you’ll need to reprogram your ECU fuel map, including the injector offset tables.
Injector Housing Throttle Body (TB) Coolant Blocking
Remove Plenum and Coolant Manifolds and Block TB Coolant at Injector Housing (Undetected and appears stock or otherwise knows as Non-Transparent). Install 1/8 inch NPT allen head pipe plugs (21/64 or 11/32 drill) two each Injector Housing (IH) Coolant as shown.
The most difficult part to TB Coolant Blocking is the removal of the two Injector Housing Coolant Pipes. Those 4 bolts in each pipe may be impossible to remove without heat. Just take a torch and heat each manifold along the whole length of the bolt a bit before removing the 6mm x 50mm torx T-30 bolts (I replace with SS Allen Head bolts).
The Injector Housing Throttle Body Coolant Plugs can be installed without removing the Injector Housings . Just be careful and cover the Injector Housing Ports when drilling and tapping the Coolant Port. It helps to remove the Injector Housing Coolant Manifolds to make sure you do not drop aluminum shavings inside the coolant manifolds.
It is simple and all you have to do is place 1/8 inch pipe plugs in two ports after drilling out a bit. You do NOT need a drill press but try to drill and tap as perpendicular to the Injector Housing Intake surface as possible. Keep trying the pipe plug as you tap the hole such that the pipe plug becomes tight but almost flush with the Injector Housing/Plenum mating surface. Use Red Loctite on the pipe plug in the final installation (the final installation procedure is to take a flat file and dress up the pipe plug with the surface (the pipe plug you use is Aluminum so easy to dress up).
It is important to have a shop vac handy as you drill and tap into aluminum to suck up all shavings.
Note 1: When drilling into aluminum with hand drill do NOT apply a lot of pressure and trigger the drill on and off rather than just hold the trigger. In aluminum the drill bit might catch and then the hole you are drilling gets screwed up just as you are about to pop through. In this case you are about to pop through at the start as the smaller hole is already there. If you are not sure.....chuck up the drill bit lightly so it spins in the chuck if it takes a bigger bite than expected when drilling.
Note 2: When tapping the drilled hole make sure the tap is perpendicular to the Injector Housing surface. Turn the tap with vertical pressure to start the thread and then rotate the tap only one turn at a time backing off and cleaning the tap each complete turn. As you get close to the tap depth required, keep trying the pipe plug such that it is near flush when finally installed but with considerable resistance when installing. The final installation is with red Loctite and then file smooth with the surface.
This Non-Transparent Installation of TB Coolant Blocking will require you insert a plug consisting of a brass
nipple soldered closed before insertion in a splice in the Coolant Return Line on the Passenger side of the Plenum
(the only TB Coolant hose that requires a hose clamp on the end of the splice going to the coolant reservoir).
Marc Haibeck has found that the throttle body has no problem with ice when the ambient temperature is at 20 degrees and the humidity is 90%. I have calculated that the coolant flow Dynamics assure ALL air is washed from the Top End of the engine at higher engine rpms (only need the air washed out once) even with TB Coolant Blocked .
Note 3: Getting the Air Out of the Water Pump after Blocking TB Coolant. See LT5 Air Locked Water Pump Simplified for the Simplified Discussion regarding The Air Locked Water Pump.
After you have filled the Coolant System with Coolant using both "Ls" (each Injector Housing Coolant Manifold)........
1. Disconnect the drivers side Injector Housing Coolant Manifold "L" and tip it up. Fill that "L" with coolant and blow into that "L" forcing coolant into the water pump through the passenger side water pump inlet and passenger side Injector Housing Coolant Manifold (Only blow in steps refilling the "L" with coolant each blow effort). You can see in the photo that by blowing coolant into the Drivers Side of the water pump air will be forced out to the top level of the impeller with only a small amount of air left on the passenger side of the water pump.
2. Refill the Drivers Side "L" with coolant and do that trick a couple times until the coolant flows out of the drivers side Injector Housing Coolant Manifold where you have disconnect the "L".
When you blow (force) coolant into Port A of the Water Pump (Blowing in steps) you replace the yellow area of Air with Water. The Air is forced out the top and down left side through Port B. (Only blow in steps refilling the "L" with coolant each blow effort).
Note 4: Blocking TB Coolant or Bypassing TB Coolant
1. You can Block TB Coolant at Injector Housing.
You can Block TB Coolant at Injector Housing without removing Injector Housings.
Recommend removing Two Injector Housing Coolant Manifolds to Block TB Coolant at Injector Housings.
You can then keep or eliminate the Plenum hoses/tube on passenger side or leave it in place.
No more hose clamps required on the TB Coolant Hoses to TB if you want to leave the stock look.
You do have to Block TB Coolant near Coolant Reservoir if you Block TB Coolant at Injector Housing. 2. You can also Bypass TB Coolant with the Coolant circulating through the Injector Housing/Plenum.
1991 LT5 with TB Coolant Blocked at Injector housing, ALL TB Coolant Hoses and Tube eliminated
1990 LT5 with TB Coolant Blocked at Injector housing, ALL TB Coolant Hoses and Tube In Place
Installation of Flywheel (Including Pilot Bearing), Clutch and Bell Housing
1. Installation of Flywheel and Clutch.
Flywheel to Crankshaft 66 ft lbs (8 bolts).
Pressure Plate to Flywheel 30 ft lbs in 5 ft lb increments (6 bolts).
Center Clutch Disk before tightening Pressure Plate.
2. Pilot Bearing Extraction and Installation.
Originally Posted by Marc Haibeck
You should drive the pilot bearing in until it seats at the bottom of the bore. That will be about 14 mm deep.
Note that a bronze bushing often comes loose and spins in the crankshaft. Installation of the bushing with bushing retaining compound will not solve the problem. I recommend to use only the roller pilot bearing. It will never come loose. GM PN 14061685.
All measurements from the surface of the rear of the crankshaft (bottom arrow).
The depth to the plug is 34.90 mm (top arrow).
The depth to the raised bottom of the pilot hole is 31.75 mm (Second arrow from top).
The depth to the raised portion of the pilot hole (the pilot bearing housing in the crankshaft) is 9.5 mm (third arrow from top).
The height of the Roller Bearing (width of outer race) is 17.45 mm.
So......I am assuming the new roller bearing pilot should be sunk in past the raised portion of the housing (third arrow from top) about 4.5 mm or .175 inches.
In other words just a bit past the raised portion of the pilot bearing hole. This would put the other end of the pilot bearing almost exactly to the raised portion near the bottom of the pilot hole at 31.75 mm (second arrow from top).
Using a Blind Hole Slide Hammer to easily pull the old Pilot Bushing.
The height of the Roller Bearing is 11/16 in (17.45 mm) ... The face of the Bronze Pilot Bushing I removed A New Roller Pilot Bearing was Used as a Replacement......was even with the reduced diameter of the bore. for the Bronze Bushing.
A Compression Test was on each cylinder was completed to confirm the operational function of the Rebuilt Heads.
The Compression Test was accomplished with ALL plugs removed by engaging the starter Prior to replacing the Plenum.
01-11-2015, 02:58 PM
The Rebuild and Assembly of a 1991 Spare LT5
