How easy is it to reset the INFL Rest Light on center Consol?
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
How easy is it to reset the INFL Rest Light on center Consol?
Hello, I need some guidance. I am getting the Callaway CR1 ready for spring and I never was able to reset the INFL Rest Light on my center consol last summer. I do have the procedure to reset it using the paperclip method but the light comes back on. Gordon did try to reset it but it came back on a short time later at Carlisle FYI, I upgraded my original steering wheel with refined leather with a sportier look, when reattaching the light came on. As it was explained there is a ground wire on the frame behind the Passenger side grill that needs to be unscrewed and sanded, as that would be the issue why the light keeps coming on. My question is can I just remove the panel and access this ground wire myself or will I have to remove other things to get to it.
Thanks for your support.
Thanks for your support.
#2
Team Owner
Member Since: Oct 2001
Location: Do or do not there is no try YODA
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Usually it is one of the front impact sensors having a bad ground, as they ground directly to the frame; you need to find which sensor is at fault, by checking the codes. Then follow the link to proceed to fix it. Ground pin K to pin A, and after code 12 flashes three times, then another codes should flash
Codes for 90
14 Front Sensor #1 (LH); Short to Ground
15 Front Sensor #1 (LH); Open Circuit
16 Front Sensor #1 (LH); Sensor Fault
24 Front Sensor #1 (RH); Short to Ground
25 Front Sensor #1 (RH); Open Circuit
26 Front Sensor #1 (RH); Sensor Fault
31 Inflator Squib; Current leakage to Battery
32 Inflator Squib; Current shorted to battery voltage
33 Inflator Squib; Current leakage to ground
34 Inflator Squib; Current shorted to ground
35 Inflator Squib; Open circuit
36 Inflator Squib; Squib fault
41 Indicator lamp circuit; Shorted to battery or ground
42 Indicator lamp circuit; Open circuit
51 Diagnostic unit faulty
52 Firing sequence confirmation set
53 Firing current confirmation set
54 Squib current has flowed
http://www.zr1netregistry.com/Old_Proj/old_proj7.htm
Also a great link.
http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread....ight=infl+rest
Codes for 90
14 Front Sensor #1 (LH); Short to Ground
15 Front Sensor #1 (LH); Open Circuit
16 Front Sensor #1 (LH); Sensor Fault
24 Front Sensor #1 (RH); Short to Ground
25 Front Sensor #1 (RH); Open Circuit
26 Front Sensor #1 (RH); Sensor Fault
31 Inflator Squib; Current leakage to Battery
32 Inflator Squib; Current shorted to battery voltage
33 Inflator Squib; Current leakage to ground
34 Inflator Squib; Current shorted to ground
35 Inflator Squib; Open circuit
36 Inflator Squib; Squib fault
41 Indicator lamp circuit; Shorted to battery or ground
42 Indicator lamp circuit; Open circuit
51 Diagnostic unit faulty
52 Firing sequence confirmation set
53 Firing current confirmation set
54 Squib current has flowed
http://www.zr1netregistry.com/Old_Proj/old_proj7.htm
Also a great link.
http://www.zr1.net/forum/showthread....ight=infl+rest
Last edited by WydGlydJim; 02-22-2012 at 04:37 PM.
#3
Hello, I need some guidance. I am getting the Callaway CR1 ready for spring and I never was able to reset the INFL Rest Light on my center consol last summer. I do have the procedure to reset it using the paperclip method but the light comes back on. Gordon did try to reset it but it came back on a short time later at Carlisle FYI, I upgraded my original steering wheel with refined leather with a sportier look, when reattaching the light came on. As it was explained there is a ground wire on the frame behind the Passenger side grill that needs to be unscrewed and sanded, as that would be the issue why the light keeps coming on. My question is can I just remove the panel and access this ground wire myself or will I have to remove other things to get to it.
Thanks for your support.
Thanks for your support.
If you're just interested in putting the light out and don't mnd defeating the SIR you could use a 2 Ohm resistor at the connector for the airbag.
#4
Racer
Thread Starter
I'd first check the connector at the back-side of the airbag if your remark "when reattaching the light came on"!! If that's accurate it's the first place I'd thik I'd look!
If you're just interested in putting the light out and don't mnd defeating the SIR you could use a 2 Ohm resistor at the connector for the airbag.
If you're just interested in putting the light out and don't mnd defeating the SIR you could use a 2 Ohm resistor at the connector for the airbag.
The connector behind the bag is secure no issue there. I'd rather not by passing the issue just resolve it. Thanks
#6
Team Owner
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I bought a used sensor once, and it did not last very long.....about three months. Had to fix it again. If the light is on, I would not trust the airbag system to work properly, and that is a pretty important safety feature.
#7
Race Director
I disagree I really don't feel the airbag is all that great or important..
#8
Tech Contributor
Hello, I need some guidance. I am getting the Callaway CR1 ready for spring and I never was able to reset the INFL Rest Light on my center consol last summer. I do have the procedure to reset it using the paperclip method but the light comes back on. Gordon did try to reset it but it came back on a short time later at Carlisle FYI, I upgraded my original steering wheel with refined leather with a sportier look, when reattaching the light came on. As it was explained there is a ground wire on the frame behind the Passenger side grill that needs to be unscrewed and sanded, as that would be the issue why the light keeps coming on. My question is can I just remove the panel and access this ground wire myself or will I have to remove other things to get to it.
Thanks for your support.
Thanks for your support.
Hopefully its just a cororsion issue at the frame. a little cleaning preping and dyelectric grease should take care of it. Make sure you clean the Front Sensors and the mounting surfaces and use the grease between the uniframe and the sensor. Remove all the rust
After performing this function dont forget to clear out the codes. Since you dont have a tech-1 but a trusty paperclip
Make sure the ignition is off before you start
Ground the ALDL Termal A to K. A is the grounding terminal BTW
Turn the ignition on and wait for the INFL Rest light to start flashing (It should take about 5-7 Seconds)
When it starts flashing unplug the A-K for about 3 seconds then ground it again for an additional 3 seconds.
Remove and wait about ten seconds and ground it once more
You should see a code 12 flashing 6 times indication the codes have been cleared and the DERM is operating normally (Dignostic Energy Reserve Module)
#9
Burning Brakes
Hopefully its just a cororsion issue at the frame. a little cleaning preping and dyelectric grease should take care of it. Make sure you clean the Front Sensors and the mounting surfaces and use the grease between the uniframe and the sensor. Remove all the rust
After performing this function dont forget to clear out the codes. Since you dont have a tech-1 but a trusty paperclip
Make sure the ignition is off before you start
Ground the ALDL Termal A to K. A is the grounding terminal BTW
Turn the ignition on and wait for the INFL Rest light to start flashing (It should take about 5-7 Seconds)
When it starts flashing unplug the A-K for about 3 seconds then ground it again for an additional 3 seconds.
Remove and wait about ten seconds and ground it once more
You should see a code 12 flashing 6 times indication the codes have been cleared and the DERM is operating normally (Dignostic Energy Reserve Module)
After performing this function dont forget to clear out the codes. Since you dont have a tech-1 but a trusty paperclip
Make sure the ignition is off before you start
Ground the ALDL Termal A to K. A is the grounding terminal BTW
Turn the ignition on and wait for the INFL Rest light to start flashing (It should take about 5-7 Seconds)
When it starts flashing unplug the A-K for about 3 seconds then ground it again for an additional 3 seconds.
Remove and wait about ten seconds and ground it once more
You should see a code 12 flashing 6 times indication the codes have been cleared and the DERM is operating normally (Dignostic Energy Reserve Module)
Good luck
#10
Tech Contributor
#11
#12
Racer
Thread Starter
[QUOTE=Goldcylon;1580093013]Hopefully its just a cororsion issue at the frame. a little cleaning preping and dyelectric grease should take care of it. Make sure you clean the Front Sensors and the mounting surfaces and use the grease between the uniframe and the sensor. Remove all the rust
Thanks so this wire where the corosion issue is at the frame is behind the Passanger side grill. Correct? Is it as simply as unscewing the bolt and sanding the area and using the dyelectic grease as you state? I just want to verify the exact location before I begin. Lastly is it readily visible when I remove the panel? My panels haven't been removed since Callaway installed them.
Thanks
Thanks so this wire where the corosion issue is at the frame is behind the Passanger side grill. Correct? Is it as simply as unscewing the bolt and sanding the area and using the dyelectic grease as you state? I just want to verify the exact location before I begin. Lastly is it readily visible when I remove the panel? My panels haven't been removed since Callaway installed them.
Thanks
#13
Tech Contributor
[QUOTE=1BADZR1;1580102248]
Yes.. Some of the other links have some of these corrosion points listed with pics see below. If this does not work. Your DERM maybe the problem. But if you need one of those LMK I have one for a MY90
http://www.zr1netregistry.com/Old_Proj/old_proj7.htm
https://www.corvetteforum.com/techti...D=46&TopicID=2
Hopefully its just a cororsion issue at the frame. a little cleaning preping and dyelectric grease should take care of it. Make sure you clean the Front Sensors and the mounting surfaces and use the grease between the uniframe and the sensor. Remove all the rust
Thanks so this wire where the corosion issue is at the frame is behind the Passanger side grill. Correct? Is it as simply as unscewing the bolt and sanding the area and using the dyelectic grease as you state? I just want to verify the exact location before I begin. Lastly is it readily visible when I remove the panel? My panels haven't been removed since Callaway installed them.
Thanks
Thanks so this wire where the corosion issue is at the frame is behind the Passanger side grill. Correct? Is it as simply as unscewing the bolt and sanding the area and using the dyelectic grease as you state? I just want to verify the exact location before I begin. Lastly is it readily visible when I remove the panel? My panels haven't been removed since Callaway installed them.
Thanks
Yes.. Some of the other links have some of these corrosion points listed with pics see below. If this does not work. Your DERM maybe the problem. But if you need one of those LMK I have one for a MY90
http://www.zr1netregistry.com/Old_Proj/old_proj7.htm
https://www.corvetteforum.com/techti...D=46&TopicID=2
Last edited by Goldcylon; 02-24-2012 at 03:06 PM.
#14
Racer
Thread Starter
[QUOTE=Goldcylon;1580102512]
Yes.. Some of the other links have some of these corrosion points listed with pics see below. If this does not work. Your DERM maybe the problem. But if you need one of those LMK I have one for a MY90
http://www.zr1netregistry.com/Old_Proj/old_proj7.htm
https://www.corvetteforum.com/techti...D=46&TopicID=2
Thanks - This does make sense Gordon stated that my Right Sensor had a fault so that is why he stated that I needed to clean the ground on the Passenger side. I will address this, this afternoon. Thanks again. I just replaced my Battery and this area was dirt and corrosion free. Note I go through my Callaway with a tooth brush so Im not surprised "Yes Im Crazy"
Yes.. Some of the other links have some of these corrosion points listed with pics see below. If this does not work. Your DERM maybe the problem. But if you need one of those LMK I have one for a MY90
http://www.zr1netregistry.com/Old_Proj/old_proj7.htm
https://www.corvetteforum.com/techti...D=46&TopicID=2
#15
Tech Contributor
Yes.. Some of the other links have some of these corrosion points listed with pics see below. If this does not work. Your DERM maybe the problem. But if you need one of those LMK I have one for a MY90
https://www.corvetteforum.com/techti...D=46&TopicID=2
https://www.corvetteforum.com/techtips/
#16
Tech Contributor
Yep interesting eh?
#17
Racer
Thread Starter
Hopefully its just a cororsion issue at the frame. a little cleaning preping and dyelectric grease should take care of it. Make sure you clean the Front Sensors and the mounting surfaces and use the grease between the uniframe and the sensor. Remove all the rust
After performing this function dont forget to clear out the codes. Since you dont have a tech-1 but a trusty paperclip
Make sure the ignition is off before you start
Ground the ALDL Termal A to K. A is the grounding terminal BTW
Turn the ignition on and wait for the INFL Rest light to start flashing (It should take about 5-7 Seconds)
When it starts flashing unplug the A-K for about 3 seconds then ground it again for an additional 3 seconds.
Remove and wait about ten seconds and ground it once more
You should see a code 12 flashing 6 times indication the codes have been cleared and the DERM is operating normally (Dignostic Energy Reserve Module)
After performing this function dont forget to clear out the codes. Since you dont have a tech-1 but a trusty paperclip
Make sure the ignition is off before you start
Ground the ALDL Termal A to K. A is the grounding terminal BTW
Turn the ignition on and wait for the INFL Rest light to start flashing (It should take about 5-7 Seconds)
When it starts flashing unplug the A-K for about 3 seconds then ground it again for an additional 3 seconds.
Remove and wait about ten seconds and ground it once more
You should see a code 12 flashing 6 times indication the codes have been cleared and the DERM is operating normally (Dignostic Energy Reserve Module)
#18
Tech Contributor
#19
Team Owner
Member Since: Oct 2001
Location: Do or do not there is no try YODA
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One thing I was doing, kinda hate to admit it..... was I had terminal K grounded to terminal A with the paperclip, and then I was trying to ground the paperclip to the frame........
Well duh, it was never getting ungrounded, because it was grounded to terminal A. Just remember to only have the paper clip in terminal K, and then ground to the seat frame or something. After I did that, it was very easy on the first try, and I have had good luck since.....I was wondering if others have done this.
#20
Heel & Toe
BUT be aware that the belts on airbag equipped cars are designed to stretch much more than cars without airbags. This lets the belt and airbag work together to absorb crash energy.
So if the airbag doesn't inflate in a crash, your stretchy seatbelt will let your body move closer to the steering column increasing your risk of injury.