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cant remember how hard the pressure line to the fuel rail is to get to but if you took a pressure gauge, cut off the gauge and ran line to a can you could just turn the key to the "on" position and it would pump it all out fairly quickly. One of a few methods
edit: not sure if the pump would try and just prime then shut off or if it would keep going being as its not building pressure
What is the easiest way to replace the gas in my 91's tank.
Can a petcock be installed at a low point?
In answer to your initial question you probably can install a pet ****, but you would probably have to drain the tank to do it correctly as the tank material is pretty thin, so you would probably need an backup nut on the inside with a oring to prevent leaks. I doubt it would be a clean install and it may leak anyway.
So my question to you is why do you want to replace all the fuel, is the car running so bad that you cannot drive it dry and fill it from a gas can.
Using the pump might work, but it is dangerous if there are any ignition sources nearby.
Tough job to install a drain **** if your tank has a plastic tank liner like mine and a lot of others have. If you have to get all the old gas out best way is to remove the complete filler neck/sending unit assembly and pump it dry with a hand pump. Then mop up the crap left in the bottom will clean shop rags. Be sure to keep the work area will ventilated so you're able to report back to us on how it went.
Tough job to install a drain **** if your tank has a plastic tank liner like mine and a lot of others have. If you have to get all the old gas out best way is to remove the complete filler neck/sending unit assembly and pump it dry with a hand pump. Then mop up the crap left in the bottom will clean shop rags. Be sure to keep the work area will ventilated so you're able to report back to us on how it went.
The above is the ONLY way to do it. A little messy, but actually pretty easy. The liner (all Vettes have one since the late 70's) precludes any attempt to put a pet **** in, and will cause many problems, real or potential.
Pull the out going fuel off the filter add a line to it turn the key on it will get things started turn back off, then just let it flow out the line as its now the lowest point it should drain down to the pump level.
I do it old school with a manual pump. I add some rubber hose to the bottom of the bulb piece to get into the tank maybe 24"
I siphon my gas out every 60-90 days. Works like a charm.
Once I pump the bulb a few times, it starts the siphon. Once I get the gas can close to full, I turn the screw on top counter clockwise to stop the flow. I do this 3 times and get close to 16 gallons out.
I than fill it back up with premium Tier 1 non-ethanol fuel and treat it with stabil because sometimes I get busy and my drain intervals are longer.
I've been doing this method forever.
Last edited by xlr8nflorida; 06-18-2016 at 06:05 PM.
The ZR-1 As a Fuel Tanker
Marc Haibeck
A few weeks ago a windy summer storm ran through Elmhurst, Illinois and we lost electrical power. This is not an uncommon occurrence so I have an electrical generator. From previous experience, the only problem with running a generator is supplying the large amount of fuel that it uses. The generator runs for eight hours on five gallons of fuel. The first fill of the tank is easy, but then it gets inconvenient to run out for fuel every eight hours.
The storm was huge. The power company prioritizes repairs with respect to the number of people served by a repair. They service the big impact repairs first. We were effected by a tree that knocked down a line for only about 50 homes. In this case they did not get to us for three days.
I was prepared to supply the fuel. Compared to our other vehicles, the ZR-1 is best suited for supplying a large amount of fuel safely. Obviously it’s safe to transport fuel in the car’s gas tank. The ZR-1 has a convenient fuel tap on the right front of the right fuel rail.
The hose connector must have a provision to depress the Schrader valve. An air conditioning service hose for R12 makes an easy connection to the fuel rail. The hose is long enough to reach the generator. The fuel pumps can be powered via the fuel pump test connector.
The fuel pump test connector is located near the windshield wiper motor. It’s a single pin connector with a red wire. I made a cable with a spade connector and a clip to connect 12 volt battery power to the test connector. The wire should be 14 gage since the two pumps draw a total of 10 amperes. To run the pumps the clip is attached to the positive terminal on the battery. On ’90 cars with VINs less than about 800 the fuel pump test connector is located in the area of the lower right side of the battery. On the early ‘90’s the connector is hard to reach and may be impossible to find without removing the battery. Starting the engine cold can run the pumps but the secondary fuel pump will shut down when the engine temperature reaches 176 degrees.
I like not having to start the car to run the pumps. I have a Battery Tender to keep the battery charged. The generator powers the Battery Tender so it recharges the battery after the fuel has been pumped.
The pumps will fill the five gallon tank on the generator in about five minutes. The generator will then run for eight hours before more fuel is needed. A full tank of fuel on the ZR-1 will fill the generator three times. Each morning I would go out to refill the
ZR-1’s fuel tank. The owner’s manual states that the Corvette fuel tank holds 20 gallons. However only 18 gallons is accessible because the Corvette will run out of fuel when about 18 gallons are used. I used 87 octane regular grade fuel. If the ZR-1 is driven with small throttle openings 87 octane fuel will not detonate.
Last edited by xlr8nflorida; 06-18-2016 at 05:54 PM.
If you're just wanting to get the water out, you may not have to siphon drain the tank completely.
Water is heavier than fuel and will precipitate out of the fuel to the bottom. A siphon tube "kissing" the lowest part of the tank will pull out water first.
If there is enough water in the tank to cover the bottom of the tank, you probably won't be able to see it at first. BUT! You can test the contents for water by putting some in a glass container and letting the liquid settle. Eventually, as more of the contents are removed, you'll get a sample where there is a boundary layer between fuel and water.
Now, as you near the last of the water (at the bottom), there isn't enough in the bottom for the barrier to cover the entire bottom, and what you'll have looks like a blob resting on the bottom. Go after that blob with the siphon hose, and you'll see the blob shrink until it disappears. At that point, the remaining liquid is pure fuel.
This only works when one can see the bottom of the tank; e.g., farm tractors, lawn mowers.... C4 Corvettes...! With the fuel pumps assembly out of the tank, this is very easy to do on a C4. (I even found one of those RED shop rags floating around in there, left over from someone's previous project, I guess!)
This method might save you a lot of unnecessary siphoning, TRUST ME! Oh, and no special tools needed either. Just a length of old garden hose. Just form a "U" and using a funnel, charge the hose with fuel. Then while sealing one end with your thumb, quickly shove the other end into the tank below the surface of the liquid. Then lower the other end into a container (gas can) to caputure the liquid.
And, for heavens sake, do it in a well ventilated area - a good idea to wet the ground to reduce static sparks from the soles of your feet. And, of course away from any sources of ignition (electrical or open flame, of course!)
Occasionally, reading this forum is like reading symptoms of medical diseases or worse the poor treatment or neglect of a puppy.
I know my gas has certainly sat for extended periods of time, however my method of "draining it" involves adding mileage to the car, with a few WOT events thrown in for good measure.
Usually the car goes on the lift and undercover in November. STA-BIL is added at that time.
By April or maybe May, it comes out, and the ritual of "burning off last year's gas" begins, taking it down as low as I dare go before refueling.
I now feel like I have been an abusive or at least neglectful owner, and must atone for my sins somehow, so maybe I will change a fluid or something to make up for it.
How long should one go before flushing and re-filling the windshield washer fluid?
Maybe evacuate the tire air and re-fill?
Change out my old fuses?
Oh heck, instead I treated it to X-PEL Paint Protection Film, and maybe tonight I will put a doggie treat in front of it!
It starts right up; It idles smoothly; It pulls like hell right to redline, and sounds terrific doing it for 18 years now!
Not pooh-poohing good maintenance procedures, but that is like throwing away synthetic oil with 50 miles on it. Sometimes, it makes me feel better, but other times I just feel silly and wasteful.
There must be a balanced approach to this somehow.
While it may not be the best way to "drain the fuel", it certainly is the most FUN way!
440 miles!
Glad you enjoyed it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
No real difference when selling a car with 14,000 miles or 19,000 miles, stop saving it and keep enjoying it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
( I tell myself the same thing! )
Marty
Originally Posted by ztheusa
Okay......enough abuse......I drove it 440 miles this last weekend.
And, filled it with ethanol free 92.............so it can sit in the hangar for another 2 years.
Nice drive from Woodinville, through Carnation, past Snoqualmie falls, and on to Desert Aire.....right through a beautiful NW sunset.
The ZR-1 got totally cleaned up and,sadly, got stuck in the back of the hangar. I drive a 2001 Z06 daily, and it was an eye opener to compare the two cars.
I'd like to drive a new Corvette, just to feel the results of another 15 years of engineering.
Z06....tighter, crisper, lighter, quicker, MUCH more flexible engine.
ZR-1.....feels faster, MUCH better seating, I like the whine of the transmission, feels like driving a race car, a little body creaky, gets more attention, Quasar Blue is fantastically beautiful, I like the thought that SOMEBODY, long ago, paid $70,000 for this piece of art.
The ZR-1 got totally cleaned up and,sadly, got stuck in the back of the hangar. I drive a 2001 Z06 daily, and it was an eye opener to compare the two cars.
I'd like to drive a new Corvette, just to feel the results of another 15 years of engineering.
Z06....tighter, crisper, lighter, quicker, MUCH more flexible engine.
ZR-1.....feels faster, MUCH better seating, I like the whine of the transmission, feels like driving a race car, a little body creaky, gets more attention, Quasar Blue is fantastically beautiful, I like the thought that SOMEBODY, long ago, paid $70,000 for this piece of art.
I think you would find the new Z06 quite impressive. Of course, I leaped into mine after 20 years of loving 30 year old technology. ZR-1s are great and very special. The Z06 is much better built and much faster, as you would expect. --Bob
The ZR-1 got totally cleaned up and, sadly, got stuck in the back of the hangar. I drive a 2001 Z06 daily, and it was an eye opener to compare the two cars.
I'd like to drive a new Corvette, just to feel the results of another 15 years of engineering.
Z06....tighter, crisper, lighter, quicker, MUCH more flexible engine.
ZR-1.....feels faster, MUCH better seating, I like the whine of the transmission, feels like driving a race car, a little body creaky, gets more attention, Quasar Blue is fantastically beautiful, I like the thought that SOMEBODY, long ago, paid $70,000 for this piece of art.
Kind of curious how you arrived at your opinion on the engines...
Kind of curious how you arrived at your opinion on the engines...
Because the LS-6 has a much more modern computer. If, in my Z06 I stomp my foot down on the gas in 6th at 900RPM.....................nothing happens, other than the car accelerates smoothly. The computer says, Okay you fool, I know what you want, but this is all you are getting.
The LT5 should also accelerate smoothly if all is well. Among other possibilities, The symptoms you describe, "kick & buck" can be attributed to weak spark, due to coils, wired & plugs.
I'm a believer in checking actual spark over ohm checking 2 paired cylinder wires & a coil. You will get a number, but it doesn't really tell you anything unless there is a complete failure. Spark under load is far more meaningful.
Using a spare plug, pull a single wire, insert plug & grounding to the engine. Start engine,, observe the spark at short gap(1/4") & gradually increase the gap. Bad spark is orange, good is blue & should jump about 3/4". Turn engine off & repeat for each cylinder.
If you observe 1 cylinder weak, it could mean either coil or wire is bad. 2 cylinders weak that are also paired is almost certainly a coil.
If available, a spark plug spark gap tool is handy.
This is a "no-cost" effective way to confirm or eliminate problems with wires & coils before moving on to other diagnostics.
06-16-2016, 12:34 PM
The above is the ONLY way to do it. A little messy, but actually pretty easy. The liner (all Vettes have one since the late 70's) precludes any attempt to put a pet **** in, and will cause many problems, real or potential.
