1990 ZR-1 oil change help needed
#1
1990 ZR-1 oil change help needed
Hello,
Non-mechanic - zr1 newbie here
I have a 1990 zr-1 with the lingenfelter 383 package. I am having difficulty reading the dipstick and have decided to just change the oil. I have had the car about 6 months, and have never changed it(prob driven only ~ 200mi), so I figure it's time anyway.
I have a 4 post lift, and I have purchased the oil and filter, but I'm afraid to start. I've read that there are 2 drain plugs, and it needs to drain for a while, but I don't know how to recognize the plugs, and I've read conflicting info on how much oil to add after draining.
Is the a step by step guide anywhere? (I've searched but did not find)
If not, any guidance would be helpful...
Thanks,
Curt
Non-mechanic - zr1 newbie here
I have a 1990 zr-1 with the lingenfelter 383 package. I am having difficulty reading the dipstick and have decided to just change the oil. I have had the car about 6 months, and have never changed it(prob driven only ~ 200mi), so I figure it's time anyway.
I have a 4 post lift, and I have purchased the oil and filter, but I'm afraid to start. I've read that there are 2 drain plugs, and it needs to drain for a while, but I don't know how to recognize the plugs, and I've read conflicting info on how much oil to add after draining.
Is the a step by step guide anywhere? (I've searched but did not find)
If not, any guidance would be helpful...
Thanks,
Curt
#2
Melting Slicks
Look up anything and everything you may ever want to know about LT5 Maintainance in the Stickys posted at the top of the page.
Let it drain overnight before you take the filter off!
Let it drain overnight before you take the filter off!
Last edited by JimZRyd; 07-17-2016 at 02:22 PM.
#3
Drifting
Hello,
Non-mechanic - zr1 newbie here
I have a 1990 zr-1 with the lingenfelter 383 package. I am having difficulty reading the dipstick and have decided to just change the oil. I have had the car about 6 months, and have never changed it(prob driven only ~ 200mi), so I figure it's time anyway.
I have a 4 post lift, and I have purchased the oil and filter, but I'm afraid to start. I've read that there are 2 drain plugs, and it needs to drain for a while, but I don't know how to recognize the plugs, and I've read conflicting info on how much oil to add after draining.
Is the a step by step guide anywhere? (I've searched but did not find)
If not, any guidance would be helpful...
Thanks,
Curt
Non-mechanic - zr1 newbie here
I have a 1990 zr-1 with the lingenfelter 383 package. I am having difficulty reading the dipstick and have decided to just change the oil. I have had the car about 6 months, and have never changed it(prob driven only ~ 200mi), so I figure it's time anyway.
I have a 4 post lift, and I have purchased the oil and filter, but I'm afraid to start. I've read that there are 2 drain plugs, and it needs to drain for a while, but I don't know how to recognize the plugs, and I've read conflicting info on how much oil to add after draining.
Is the a step by step guide anywhere? (I've searched but did not find)
If not, any guidance would be helpful...
Thanks,
Curt
#5
Melting Slicks
Not a dumb question at all Curt. Welcome to the club! These Z's although mostly a C4, still are different/special enough that it requires some knowledge to keep them running top notch. There's quite a few guys here that know the LT5 inside and out. Don't hesitate to ask about anything you need!
Jim
Jim
#6
Not a dumb question at all Curt. Welcome to the club! These Z's although mostly a C4, still are different/special enough that it requires some knowledge to keep them running top notch. There's quite a few guys here that know the LT5 inside and out. Don't hesitate to ask about anything you need!
Jim
Jim
The reassurance about only one drain plug, and 8.5 quarts gave me the confidence to give it a shot. It's out there draining now!
Curt
#7
Race Director
Sounds like you have it covered Curt. As stated its pretty straight forward. No need to go gonzo tight on the filter,tighten by hand then maybe 1/2-3/4 turn with a filter wrench,just tight enough to where you can't loosen it by hand. Don't forget to coat the rubber seal on the new filter and a new Teflon? washer on the drain plug. Some go psycho and actually drain to oil cooler but I don't even think that's necessary.
#8
Instructor
Sounds like you have it covered Curt. As stated its pretty straight forward. No need to go gonzo tight on the filter,tighten by hand then maybe 1/2-3/4 turn with a filter wrench,just tight enough to where you can't loosen it by hand. Don't forget to coat the rubber seal on the new filter and a new Teflon? washer on the drain plug. Some go psycho and actually drain to oil cooler but I don't even think that's necessary.
#9
I probably tightened the filter too much, I used a wrench, but didn't torque it down as hard as I could... Don't see any leaks, so I think it should be ok...
thanks all for the help
thanks all for the help
#10
Race Director
You mentioned the cubic inch number 383 in your first post. I am not familiar with a 383 LT5 cubic inch package from Lingenfelter. Are you sure that is the displacement?
Welcome to the ZR-1 brotherhood.
#11
A quarter turn past hand tight is usually sufficent to keep the oil filter on there. The oil filter is under the hood right next to the oil cap... right?
You mentioned the cubic inch number 383 in your first post. I am not familiar with a 383 LT5 cubic inch package from Lingenfelter. Are you sure that is the displacement?
Welcome to the ZR-1 brotherhood.
You mentioned the cubic inch number 383 in your first post. I am not familiar with a 383 LT5 cubic inch package from Lingenfelter. Are you sure that is the displacement?
Welcome to the ZR-1 brotherhood.
Don't know why I said 383, it's 368... the "368 cid 1990 ZR-1 engine package"
This is what it has:
http://lingenfelter.managecontent.co...hp-368-cid-lt5
It didn't come from the dealer with the package, it was added later by a previous owner in 1996.
#12
Race Director
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#14
Race Director
Make sure you stuff a rag in the area below the place where the lines attach with a 10 mm bolt to minimize little spills. Also inspect your O rings before you put the lines back on.
#15
Didn't see anyone mentioning it yet.
You need to check the oil level when the engines cold and the oils had plenty of time to settle. Once the engines been started you can't get a read on the level.
You need to check the oil level when the engines cold and the oils had plenty of time to settle. Once the engines been started you can't get a read on the level.
#17
Le Mans Master
the lt5 has lots of little nooks and crannies and the oil drain back is a little slow.
if you want to check the oil hot, it will generally show 3/4 to quart low which is fine.
let it cool down for 30 min or so for the drain back. when I change oil, I like to warm the engine up and let it drain for a few hours
the drain will trickle for a long time!
also keep in mind the dirty oil DOES stay in the oil cooler, but I'm not fastidious enough to worry about it
if you want to check the oil hot, it will generally show 3/4 to quart low which is fine.
let it cool down for 30 min or so for the drain back. when I change oil, I like to warm the engine up and let it drain for a few hours
the drain will trickle for a long time!
also keep in mind the dirty oil DOES stay in the oil cooler, but I'm not fastidious enough to worry about it
#18
Race Director
the lt5 has lots of little nooks and crannies and the oil drain back is a little slow.
if you want to check the oil hot, it will generally show 3/4 to quart low which is fine.
let it cool down for 30 min or so for the drain back. when I change oil, I like to warm the engine up and let it drain for a few hours
the drain will trickle for a long time!
also keep in mind the dirty oil DOES stay in the oil cooler, but I'm not fastidious enough to worry about it
if you want to check the oil hot, it will generally show 3/4 to quart low which is fine.
let it cool down for 30 min or so for the drain back. when I change oil, I like to warm the engine up and let it drain for a few hours
the drain will trickle for a long time!
also keep in mind the dirty oil DOES stay in the oil cooler, but I'm not fastidious enough to worry about it