YD-LUZ

I will consider trades for nice bolt on Z06's or possibly other nice vettes. Mild mods preferred or possible a SC built on pump. Text pics and details, 636-744-3800. Thank You!

Fresh dyno tune Sept 2013, 713whp on mild boost through an unlocked, stalled auto, perfect drivability, tune is dead on the money and car is 100%.

Overall car:
I have a 1997 Mustang GT for sell with a pro built Cobra 4v Twin Turbo Engine. The car is not a thrown together piece placed on “kill” to produce a big number on the dyno. The car is carefully built to be seriously fast while being fun to drive and reliable. It is just that and can be turned up much, much more and run deep into the 9’s with no more than turning the electronic boost controller up.
Paint, body and Interior:
Every effort has been made to restore the car. The body itself has 148K as the car spent a lot of its’ life as a daily driver. Then, it was stripped and dis-assembled to paint it the beautiful color it is now, Audi sprint blue pearl base coat, clear coat. The paint is amazing quality, no orange peel and ultra-high gloss. Unlike many, the car was done right. There are no tape lines anywhere as it was painted in pieces. The car did not need any major bodywork and there are zero signs of it ever being damaged. As I am not the owner who had the car painted, I took it to a friend who owns a body shop, he went over the entire car and said the paint job alone would cost $5,000+++ by any good shop. The paint is approaching 6 years old, but has less than 10,000 miles of driving since completed. It has never been left outside and has been extremely well cared for. However, expect a few signs of use, rock chips behind the wheels and things like that. It is very nice, but not brand new. On a scale of 1-10 I’d give it a solid 9.5. There are no flaws in the body whatsoever, zero dings, dents, rust, etc – it is straighter than when it was new. My rating is being very picky, many people would say the car is perfect, but there are always little things on any car that gets driven. Interior is very nice as well. Has a lot of tasteful adds, seats, carbon fiber, new carpet, cd player, aftermarket speakers, auto-meter gauges, etc. It is a solid 9 for sure. Heater works great, AC has been removed.
Running and driving:
Running and driving the car is amazing. It is very, very well tuned so the street manners are outstanding. It runs down the road smooth as could be, does well in traffic, does not do anything funny. It is like driving a stock mustang that shifts hard until you get in the boost. Speaking of boost, wow, this is by far the best twin turbo car I’ve had in terms of how the entire package works. Maybe the stage 2 cams help a lot, I’m not sure, but the thing spools so fast. Floor it, and bam, you’re in boost at any rpm almost instantly. The 2-speed powerglide is truly the fastest and best set-up behind a turbo car, it just lays you back and pulls like a 632ci big block. The torque is insane. On the low / mild boost setting of only 14psi it just dynoed September 2013 578whp on pump gas and very safe set-up. On just 21psi it dynoed 713.87whp (see dyno sheet pic) with pump 93 octane mixed with 110 unleaded. Remember, that's through a stalled auto trans and is a real race ready safe tune up, not a dyno only pull. I have been driving it around on 15/16psi which is 600+whp. My tuner who just got done working on the drivability a little on part throttle says “it feels like a lot more than 600!” I attribute that to how quickly it spools and the overall power curve being GREAT. I see no reason why this kit, motor, fuel system and trans can not make 28psi plus as it is right now. On low boost 14psi, it ran 6.50 @ 109 mph in the 1/8th mile, that = about a 10.20 quarter mile. But, that was on a soft launch with Nitto drag radials and a full tank of gas. There is no reason at all the car can not run deep into the 9’s is someone wants to. I have video of this exact car, on low boost racing my other twin turbo cobra, I can text to serious buyers only.
To run, drive, race, show the car needs nothing. Get in, turn key and go. It is set-up VERY safe as is and power can be turned up using the electronic boost controller. It will not require a race car mechanic to own as it is not on kill and has nothing that requires constant maintenance. The car has been driven about 7,000 miles since the motor was done and has had ZERO issues of any kind. It is a proven set up. About 5,000 of those miles were with a TKO600 and like that it destroyed the clutch from the power and torque. That was the reason for the auto conversion as well as they work so much better behind a turbo car. The 3.55 gear ratio with 28” tire is no too bad on the highway. But, if you want to run over 70mph, I’d change to a 3.08 or 3.27 ratio. The car would be no slower like that, I actually think with the torque it has, it may even be faster. The speedo does not work and never has been hooked up since the auto conversion. All other gauges work, as do the lights, keyless entry, power windows, lock, etc, etc.
The Build:
Everything is very well documented, much better than most. JPC built the motor, fuel system, cooling system, installed turbo kit, etc on the car. I have all paper work from them. I created a detailed spreadsheet just to keep the math simple. While I may be missing a few things, what I totaled up cost $46,124.14 not counting purchasing the car itself. They say going fast is not cheap and when you do it right, it really isn’t. This is truly a super car that will absolutely leave a new Shelby GT500 with no strain at all.
Here are the mods:
Engine
Pro built 4.6l AL shortblock (have all paperwork)
9.1 compression
forged internals
Stock heads
reworked to new
new cam gears, tensiors, sprockets, chains, etc.
new beehive springs, steel retainers, head studs
stage 2 street/ strip cams
HP stage 2 57mm twin turbo kit
stock intake
Imrc deletes

Transmission
Pro-built auto - powerglide 2 speed rated for 1,200hp built and stalled for this car
Full manual valve body
Trans brake
All premium stuff, B&M cooler, hurst quarter stick, sfi flywheel, etc.

Rear
FRPP 3.55 gear
8.8 rear 31 spline Axles
Eaton Detriot Truetrac diff, limited slip 31 spline
all new seals rings, etc.

Fuel
60lb injectors
Magnafuel 1500 HP pump
Boost reference regulator
UPR 9/16 high flow fuel rails
supporting -8an fuel lines -6 return lines

Supporting cast
BomZ Racing seats
Customized interior trimwork
Fluidyne Al radiator new electric fan
Weld Prostar wheels and drag radials
A/C delete
200 AMP HO Alternator
DIS-4 Plus, MSD coil packs, wiring harness, tach adapters, etc.
Custom tune with SCT switch chip. Set with stock tune, pump gas tune, 110 tune

Suspension
Granetelli Coil over fronts
Eibach drag springs and air bag in rear
Strange 9way adjustables all around
Swarrbarrs rear axle brace
Mega Bite jr lower control arms
Metco adjustable upper control arms
upper and lower battle boxes
Full length frame connectors
Drilled and slotted rotors all 4 corners and performance brake pads

PRICE, Trades and Phone Number:
636-744-3800

Here are a few pics, can send more is a trade deal looks promising:






VIDEOS: VIDEOS: VIDEOS: VIDEOS:

Vette_DD

You do need to post an asking price for your car, forum rule, even for a trade.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-c...e-threads.html

You also need to be a little more specific about what C5s you'll accept. Any range of model year Z06s, or any colors of Z06s in or out?

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-c...uirements.html

YD-LUZ

Sorry about that, thanks.

$23,000 price

Trade for.......2002 up Z06 or any nicely built C5 or C6 vette. Colors, love red and blue, but others way work.

Vette_DD