A&A P1SC Belt Replacement
03-18-2007, 03:14 PM
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
A&A P1SC Belt Replacement
Do I need to remove the bracket to replace the belt?
I installed the kit a year and a half ago and don't recall the particulars.
I have removed the alternator pulley and loosened the alternator...
Going out to the garage to start removing tubing so I can get a better view. Thinking the belt will not come off from around the balancer with the bracket still on, but I hope I am wrong.
I did make a pdf copy of the instructions I used at the time and will refer to that: http://hale.strasser.us/c5/mods/aa_p1sc.pdf
I installed the kit a year and a half ago and don't recall the particulars.
I have removed the alternator pulley and loosened the alternator...
Going out to the garage to start removing tubing so I can get a better view. Thinking the belt will not come off from around the balancer with the bracket still on, but I hope I am wrong.
I did make a pdf copy of the instructions I used at the time and will refer to that: http://hale.strasser.us/c5/mods/aa_p1sc.pdf
03-18-2007, 03:28 PM
#2
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Do I need to remove the bracket to replace the belt?
I installed the kit a year and a half ago and don't recall the particulars.
I have removed the alternator pulley and loosened the alternator...
Going out to the garage to start removing tubing so I can get a better view. Thinking the belt will not come off from around the balancer with the bracket still on, but I hope I am wrong.
I did make a pdf copy of the instructions I used at the time and will refer to that: http://hale.strasser.us/c5/mods/aa_p1sc.pdf
I installed the kit a year and a half ago and don't recall the particulars.
I have removed the alternator pulley and loosened the alternator...
Going out to the garage to start removing tubing so I can get a better view. Thinking the belt will not come off from around the balancer with the bracket still on, but I hope I am wrong.
I did make a pdf copy of the instructions I used at the time and will refer to that: http://hale.strasser.us/c5/mods/aa_p1sc.pdf
Hiya Hale,
If the bracket arrangement is the same as the A&A vortech kit then you will have to remove the bracket. The lower portion of the bracket sits about 1/16" from the face of the balancer on the one I'm in the midst of installing. No way to get a belt through there.
03-18-2007, 04:17 PM
#3
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Yep. Had to remove the bracket. Like you said, balancer very close to the bracket... In fact, mine was so close it did this:
Guess the balancer needs replaced...
Guess the balancer needs replaced...
03-18-2007, 06:40 PM
#6
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
The balancer had been quite wobbly w/ ~ 90k miles on the car...
Last fall just before I put the car away for the winter there was a horrible noise from the balancer area with the car running and then it went away (apparently as the face of the balancer and part of the bracket wore off).
I nicked the belt when installing it last summer after having the alternator removed for testing. As part of spring maint, changing all fluids, etc, I figured it was time to swap bets as well.
Question is whether or not the bracket is still rigid enough. I am pricing a replacement OEM balancer and bolt and will have the joy of removing the steering rack to replace.
Last fall just before I put the car away for the winter there was a horrible noise from the balancer area with the car running and then it went away (apparently as the face of the balancer and part of the bracket wore off).
I nicked the belt when installing it last summer after having the alternator removed for testing. As part of spring maint, changing all fluids, etc, I figured it was time to swap bets as well.
Question is whether or not the bracket is still rigid enough. I am pricing a replacement OEM balancer and bolt and will have the joy of removing the steering rack to replace.
03-18-2007, 06:50 PM
#7
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I would think of replacing it...you wouldn't want the bracket to come apart. Or see if it can be repair somehow. I'm going to look at mine before it hits the road this spring. I haven't had any problems but after see yours it would be a good thing to check.
Good luck
Ron
Good luck
Ron
03-18-2007, 08:18 PM
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03-18-2007, 11:24 PM
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Hale, it's new balancer time!! I know you're looking forward to taking out the steering rack again. But you do get to say "rack" a lot. That's cool. heh heh....
I'd show Andy the pics, that's a pretty stout bracket, it might be ok if you just take the rough edges off it. But it could just as easially be a polished paperweight.
Keep us posted!
-jeff
I'd show Andy the pics, that's a pretty stout bracket, it might be ok if you just take the rough edges off it. But it could just as easially be a polished paperweight.
Keep us posted!
-jeff
03-20-2007, 08:53 PM
#12
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Anything special to remember when replacing the balancer with a new factory version? Do I need to move weights, etc?
I still have the template for drilling the key hole that I used when pinning the orig balancer. Should I try to use the same notch that I cut in the crank snout?
I plan on torquing the balancer bolt to 220 ft/lbs and then using an impact on it.
Anything else?
I ordered a new balancer and bolt from Fred Beans for < $135 shipped.
Dropped the bracket off at a local machine shop to have them repair the damage.
I still have the template for drilling the key hole that I used when pinning the orig balancer. Should I try to use the same notch that I cut in the crank snout?
I plan on torquing the balancer bolt to 220 ft/lbs and then using an impact on it.
Anything else?
I ordered a new balancer and bolt from Fred Beans for < $135 shipped.
Dropped the bracket off at a local machine shop to have them repair the damage.
03-20-2007, 09:11 PM
#13
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Hale, the proper install procedure is to use an install tool to get the balancer on there, then use the OLD BOLT and torque that sucker to 250 ft/lbs, then take that bolt out, and use the new bolt, and put it at 37 ft/lbs and then take it 150*.
(Thirty seven!! ..... At least Randall wasn't 36....)
We ususally mark it with a sharpie so we know how far we need to go. (I have the super pimp StrapOn Torque Angle Meter) Do it by hand with a Big *** Breaker Bar(tm) as far as we can, and use the Freaking Kick Butt Air Gun(tm) to get the last 30* we can never get it by hand.
You just reusing the bracket, the more I thought about it the more it looks pretty ok to me.
-jeff
(Thirty seven!! ..... At least Randall wasn't 36....)
We ususally mark it with a sharpie so we know how far we need to go. (I have the super pimp StrapOn Torque Angle Meter) Do it by hand with a Big *** Breaker Bar(tm) as far as we can, and use the Freaking Kick Butt Air Gun(tm) to get the last 30* we can never get it by hand.
You just reusing the bracket, the more I thought about it the more it looks pretty ok to me.
-jeff
03-21-2007, 01:01 AM
#15
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Hale, the proper install procedure is to use an install tool to get the balancer on there, then use the OLD BOLT and torque that sucker to 250 ft/lbs, then take that bolt out, and use the new bolt, and put it at 37 ft/lbs and then take it 150*.
(Thirty seven!! ..... At least Randall wasn't 36....)
We ususally mark it with a sharpie so we know how far we need to go. (I have the super pimp StrapOn Torque Angle Meter) Do it by hand with a Big *** Breaker Bar(tm) as far as we can, and use the Freaking Kick Butt Air Gun(tm) to get the last 30* we can never get it by hand.
You just reusing the bracket, the more I thought about it the more it looks pretty ok to me.
-jeff
(Thirty seven!! ..... At least Randall wasn't 36....)
We ususally mark it with a sharpie so we know how far we need to go. (I have the super pimp StrapOn Torque Angle Meter) Do it by hand with a Big *** Breaker Bar(tm) as far as we can, and use the Freaking Kick Butt Air Gun(tm) to get the last 30* we can never get it by hand.
You just reusing the bracket, the more I thought about it the more it looks pretty ok to me.
-jeff
Jeff, I love you man...
03-29-2007, 10:30 PM
#20
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter