Larzmat

Hi there, I have been noticing the drain hose "sweating" lately down by the oil pan on the V2 kit I have. Now I last time i was under the car i noticed quite a few drops on the floor and when i flex the hose it shows signs of dry cracks so i assume its just done. Fitting seals to the pan so no issue there.

Do you have a better updated drain hose available? Any tips on how i get to the worm gear clamp up on the head unit to disconnect? It's really tight up there trying to reach from under the car..

Bottom fitting down by the pan is easy since it has coilovers and the leaf is N/A.

Thanks!

Josh@AandASuperchargers

In order to replace that hose you will need to remove the SC.
Here is the replacement from our website.

http://www.aacorvette.com/supercharg...roducts_id=345

Noma01

You can make that hose a -an hose and fitting. Run a quick disconnect fitting in the center of the line and it makes removing the head unit super easy. Well worth the $$.

Larzmat

Do you have a picture of this installed?
I assume you still have to unthread if the hose needs to be replaced ?

Larzmat

How can I get the intercooler plastic "lip" peice that bolts to it? I looked on the site but could only see the complete intercooler and not the plastic lip separate?

Thanks!

Noma01

I wish I took a pic of it before I put it in. Bret (blownbluez06) told me about when I installed my kit. Best thing I did!!
Run a npt/an fitting on the pan then run the hose to the female jiffy tite quick disconnect to the male Quick disconnect. Then to a npt/an fitting in the blower. All your doing is converting the npt barb fitting to -an so u can run the quick disconnects. Worth the $$ first time u pull the blower and can disconnect the line with one hand!
It will be a braided an hose. Shouldn't have to mess with it again. But if u do have to remove the hose. You'll pull it apart at the male -an to the hose -an end. Better than pulling on the barb fitting that's threaded to the pan

Josh@AandASuperchargers

Call the shop to order the plastic duckbill for C5 I/C.
It's $25 plus shipping.
805-278-4107

Larzmat

Excellent!
I am also installing an RD radiator w EOC, what would you suggest for optimal coolant?

I have heard to use Dexcool?

Josh@AandASuperchargers

Since you don't deal with freezing temps most likely, you can run more like 70% distilled water and a bottle or 2 of the Royal Purple coolant additive, then the rest Dexcool.

realcanuk

Josh,
Spoke to you briefly on the phone the other day. I got a deal I couldn't pass up so I will be using a YSI C5 kit on my C6. We will fabricate the IC piping but I have a question on the bracket. I understand if I use a LS1/6 water pump I can use the C5 bracket. Will it work properly ? Is there anything else I need to address ? If it wont work properly I would rather change the bracket, but using it will save me money.
I will be ordering up a few other parts from you once I get everything sorted out.

Also, if I change the water pump, would you suggest an OEM pump or is there a better option?

Thanks,
Jody

Josh@AandASuperchargers

Only use GM waterpumps when using a SC, we have seen too many alignment problems with the house-brand housings.
Our SC brackets are cut to fit the corresponding waterpumps.
So C5 bracket fits Vette LS1/LS6 waterpumps.
C6 bracket fits Vette LS2/3/7 waterpumps.

If you run a C6 throttle body with a C5 bracket you will need to flip the T/B over, lengthen the harness, and spacer the P/S reservoir forward about 2".

realcanuk

Wow. That sounds like a major pain. If I buy a new C6 bracket is there a market for me to sell the C5 ?

Josh@AandASuperchargers

You could post it up for sale on the forum and maybe sell it.

Patches

I'm in the process of installing an A&A Secondary Drive. I upgraded the power steering pump pulley to the 4-arm C6 version and installed it with the pulley hub face flush with the pump shaft end. In trial-fitting the pump braided line, I discovered interference between the line fitting and the pulley as pictured below. In researching the pulley installation, others here instructed pressing the pulley hub flush to the shaft end (which I did, as noted above) but I'm wondering it that's incorrect, seeing the interference that creates with the pulley rim with the pulley in this position.

I am using the A&A instructions for this installation and you only show the stock C5 pulley in the section that illustrates the power steering adapter fitting and braided line installation, and it fits fine with that pulley. The C6 pulley is pictured elsewhere in the instructions.

What's the correct way to install this line? Did I press the pulley on too far and, if so, what's the correct depth? Do I then need to adjust the driven pulley depth (the one that drives the belt for the alternator and is driven by the crank pulley) to match this if I need to shim it out to ensure alignment?





Thanks.

Josh@AandASuperchargers

Keep the pulley flush with the hub, If the back of pulley is going to hit the fitting you can either get the back of the pulley milled for clearance or once the fitting is tight you can grind the fitting around the edge for clearance.

meadowz06

Just took delivery of a mint condition 1999 with 19,000 miles with a brand new A&A kit. The power is awesome. And it drives like a stock C5 under 2,500 rpm's. Only thing needed is a auto transmission cooler for the hot Alabama summer temps! Love the kit!!!

Josh@AandASuperchargers

Great man! Enjoy and yes get a nice external trans cooler on it and by-pass the stock in-tank unit.

StuntHeavy

Are there any plans for any AA BlackFriday/Cyber Monday deals?

Josh@AandASuperchargers

Call me at the shop so we can talk.
-Josh

Water_Walker

Josh

In terms of performance is there a large difference between the v1 v2 v3 ?

The v1 has the louder gears right? In your opinion, is it significantly louder?

Do you gave any options to purchase any v1 super chargers at a bit lower price than than the other versions?