S/C install - balancer bolt removal tips?
02-12-2010, 09:15 PM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
S/C install - balancer bolt removal tips?
In process of installing my Supercharger this weekend - finally got the steering rack out (yes.... it was a pain to get out) and now getting ready to pin the crank. Trying to remove the balancer bolt but the balancer keeps turning. It does seem to tighten up a bit just as I run out of room to turn any more. Any way to keep the balancer from turning without damaging anything.
Any tips are appreciated.
Thanks!
Any tips are appreciated.
Thanks!
02-12-2010, 09:30 PM
#2
Race Director
Member Since: May 2004
Location: Raleigh, NC
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St. Jude Donor '15
Originally Posted by LS1HowTo.com
On a 6 speed car, put the shifter in 4th gear and make sure the parking brake is on tight. On an A4 car, you'll need to drop the starter and either install the flywheel locking tool or wedge a screwdriver in. The starter is held in by 2 13mm bolts for 99+ models or 2 15mm bolts for 98 models and is on the bottom rear passenger side of the engine. You can leave the wires attached.
Once the engine is locked down from spinning, use your large breaker bar, a 3" extension and a 24mm socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt that goes directly into the crank through the center of the large pulley. You may need a 2-3 foot extension of pipe to slip over your wrench to break this bolt free. Once its broken free, you should be able to unscrew it by hand. Once the bolt is out, either thread it back in 4 full turns, or if you purchased a 1" longer metric crank bolt, install it all the way at this time. Now install your 3 arm pulley puller, mounting the hooks of the three arms on the inner part of the stock pulley. If you already have an underdrive pulley on there, either pull it off using a 3 screw type puller, or be VERY careful and grab onto a lip of the underdrive pulley (on the fbody ASP pulley there is a ridge half way back that can be pulled on safely with a 3 arm puller). Keeping the pulley puller arms all secure and aligned, begin to tighten the bolt on the puller and crank on it until the pulley either comes loose, or hits the head of your crank bolt. If it hits the head of your crankbolt, loosen the pulley puller, unturn the bolt 1-2 turns, and re-try it again. The key when you back your crank bolt out more, you are putting MORE stress on less and less of the threads...however, towards the end of pulley removal it will come off easier and easier so the stress isn't enough to damage the crankshaft threads.
If you get the pulley as far off as it'll come without totally removing the crankbolt and the pulley is still firmly on there, give it a good tug or a tap with a rubber mallet...it should be hanging on by just a hair at this point. If you have the longer crank bolt, this won't be an issue.
On a 6 speed car, put the shifter in 4th gear and make sure the parking brake is on tight. On an A4 car, you'll need to drop the starter and either install the flywheel locking tool or wedge a screwdriver in. The starter is held in by 2 13mm bolts for 99+ models or 2 15mm bolts for 98 models and is on the bottom rear passenger side of the engine. You can leave the wires attached.
Once the engine is locked down from spinning, use your large breaker bar, a 3" extension and a 24mm socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt that goes directly into the crank through the center of the large pulley. You may need a 2-3 foot extension of pipe to slip over your wrench to break this bolt free. Once its broken free, you should be able to unscrew it by hand. Once the bolt is out, either thread it back in 4 full turns, or if you purchased a 1" longer metric crank bolt, install it all the way at this time. Now install your 3 arm pulley puller, mounting the hooks of the three arms on the inner part of the stock pulley. If you already have an underdrive pulley on there, either pull it off using a 3 screw type puller, or be VERY careful and grab onto a lip of the underdrive pulley (on the fbody ASP pulley there is a ridge half way back that can be pulled on safely with a 3 arm puller). Keeping the pulley puller arms all secure and aligned, begin to tighten the bolt on the puller and crank on it until the pulley either comes loose, or hits the head of your crank bolt. If it hits the head of your crankbolt, loosen the pulley puller, unturn the bolt 1-2 turns, and re-try it again. The key when you back your crank bolt out more, you are putting MORE stress on less and less of the threads...however, towards the end of pulley removal it will come off easier and easier so the stress isn't enough to damage the crankshaft threads.
If you get the pulley as far off as it'll come without totally removing the crankbolt and the pulley is still firmly on there, give it a good tug or a tap with a rubber mallet...it should be hanging on by just a hair at this point. If you have the longer crank bolt, this won't be an issue.
02-12-2010, 11:58 PM
#3
Le Mans Master
With the rear wheels on the ground put it in 6th gear with the e-brake on and then get a big braker bar on there. If auto, take of the inspection cover on the bell housing (the rubber piece) and I think it is 2-1/4" open end wrench and put it on the sqaure clamp thats in there.
02-13-2010, 01:01 AM
#4
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With the rear wheels on the ground put it in 6th gear with the e-brake on and then get a big braker bar on there. If auto, take of the inspection cover on the bell housing (the rubber piece) and I think it is 2-1/4" open end wrench and put it on the sqaure clamp thats in there.
02-13-2010, 07:40 AM
#5
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Hd
With the rear wheels on the ground put it in 6th gear with the e-brake on and then get a big braker bar on there. If auto, take of the inspection cover on the bell housing (the rubber piece) and I think it is 2-1/4" open end wrench and put it on the sqaure clamp thats in there.
02-13-2010, 09:42 AM
#6
Instructor
Thread Starter
Thanks for the tips - I finally broke it loose!! Just took a constant steady pressure for it to finally break loose. Now if it could just warm up - who ordered all of this cold and snow in Atlanta?!?! Now the garage is sub 30 degrees - guess I will have to dress in layers today....
02-13-2010, 11:01 AM
#8
Instructor
Thread Starter
Thanks - I will make sure it is torqued to spec. I have all the manuals and am pretty **** about torquing everything down as it should be. I guess wrenching on helicopters in the Military for 9 years has this pretty much a standard for me.
