Running Lean with N2O
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Running Lean with N2O
Ok I've gathered that anything that may make your car run lean with N2O is very bad. Now I've just got a TNT wet kit. I imagine that the jets are calibrated and all. Since fuel is added, how would using something like large MAF cause it to run lean? (I mean above that when I don't use N2O)
How do I protect myself from running lean and blowing the engine?
How do fluctuations in fuel pressures and N2O pressures compensated?
How do I protect myself from running lean and blowing the engine?
How do fluctuations in fuel pressures and N2O pressures compensated?
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Re: Running Lean with N2O (JMon)
How do fluctuations in fuel pressures and N2O pressures compensated?
I have the fuel pressure gauge installed last week and notice that when you have the engine running, the fuel pressure has always be consistently @ 60PSI. I have never seen it drop below that level.
On a wet kit, as soon as your nitrous pressure drop below the optimun level (950PSI), you will run rich.
-Tuan
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Re: Running Lean with N2O (Tuan Le)
Hey Tuan Le, Did you put in the cam yourself? Did you change out the valve springs or pushrods? Your dyno numbers seem pretty good.
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Re: Running Lean with N2O (JMon)
Hey Tuan Le, Did you put in the cam yourself? Did you change out the valve springs or pushrods? Your dyno numbers seem pretty good.
-Tuan
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Re: Running Lean with N2O (JMon)
With a larger MAF housing you are getting unmetered air. THe stock is 70mm and most aftermarket ones are around 74mm. The calculations in the pcm are based on flow through a 70mm housing. Your long term fuel trims will try and compensate by going to their max fuel add of 25% (at least mine did). However, at WOT they are no help and my 02's went right to .78-.80 n/a. Optimal on n/a is around .87-.88. Now if I am lean n/a and then add nitrous :nono: :nono: To protecdt yourself either get LS1edit or MAFT and richen yourself. Or get the stock housing and take out the screen. Turing the MAF sensor backwards also richens you up a lil bit, but that is just triva info :D You will not have to worry about fuel pressure flucuations, unless of course you have some other problem, but you should be good. The nitrous pressures will be handled by the warmth of the bottle and amount in there. THe warmer the bottle the higher the pressure. You want between 1000-1200 psi.
oh yeah on a TNT 100 wet shot. You will be rich. They set up their jets that way to be safe. It is up to you to dial it in.
A dry kit is fine for you up to about 100 shot. You have smaller injectors than my '98 which can get away with more. However, I just do not trust that lil wire to be accurate trying to keep heating itself and haveing this -70*f or so hi pressure blast at it. To run anything over 100 shot for you I would get bigger injectors. Not many are happy with just a 100 shot :D.
oppsss ha you know what I was reading this other post by "superJ.." and I think I put in stuff to that post here also...like the injectors... he has a 2000 and you have a '97, so my lil ditty about that is wrong...oh well :sleep: :sleep: :D :crazy:
[Modified by intel55, 1:53 AM 4/3/2002]
oh yeah on a TNT 100 wet shot. You will be rich. They set up their jets that way to be safe. It is up to you to dial it in.
A dry kit is fine for you up to about 100 shot. You have smaller injectors than my '98 which can get away with more. However, I just do not trust that lil wire to be accurate trying to keep heating itself and haveing this -70*f or so hi pressure blast at it. To run anything over 100 shot for you I would get bigger injectors. Not many are happy with just a 100 shot :D.
oppsss ha you know what I was reading this other post by "superJ.." and I think I put in stuff to that post here also...like the injectors... he has a 2000 and you have a '97, so my lil ditty about that is wrong...oh well :sleep: :sleep: :D :crazy:
[Modified by intel55, 1:53 AM 4/3/2002]