nickk4469

Typically I'm on here for my c5 vert. But I recently purchased a ls6 cts-v supercharged. Tonight I was on my way home and the check engine light came on and it started to back fire. This is the first time it started to happen. The light shuts off after I start being nice to it. If I get on it hard the light starts blinking and it starts backfireing again. The question is did I do somthing bad, or is me electrical screwed up?... Has anyone had this happen? Did I destroy my motor?

nickk4469

Ok, so I just let it cool down and took it for a drive to check the symptoms. It is fine at low RPM's. If I shift it into fifth from a roll it takes off normal. But when I down shift to high rpm's it starts back fireing and starts blinking check engine light. I then let off and start driving at lower rpm's (3000-4000) and it's fine. but if I start getting on it above 4500 it starts back firing and the engine light start blinking. It never did this before.... Let me know what u guys think!!

regorih

When the check engine light blinks on and off over and over it's due to a misfire. Pull the codes and start from there.

Roger

nickk4469

Anyone else have any thoughts on this. I don't have a tuner that's local, so I would to get a few ideas of what this might be before I start calling and talking to shops.

2bridges

you need more information to have any idea what you are dealing with.
need to pull codes. most auto parts stores will pull your codes free and give you a printout

Sounds to me like it may be going lean, if so you need to stop immediately driving it and resolve what is happening.... lean and boost will absolutly destroy a motor in short order.

nickk4469

ok, that's two for two for checking the codes, so i'll have that done first then! The car does have a skunky/burnt rubber coming from under the hood, so i may have melted some wires or something.... i really didn't notice until i walked out in the garage after it had been parked for a bit.

Thanks
Nick

BLOWNBLUEZ06

If you're saying the lights are dimming, sounds like you have a voltage problem in the car. Possibly bad alternator, battery, or grounds. High throttle and RPM increases electical demand.

robert miller

Look at this a few months back mine did part of what you are saying here. It also was the battery but my voltage was also down on the car from the gauge in the car... New battery all is well now..

schpenxel

don't need a tuner to check codes..any parts shop can just about do it. hand held code pullers are like $50 at worst (although an Advance or whoever is near you will do it for free)

as everyone else has said, start there

nickk4469

I borrowed a code reader from one of my buddies. I won't be able to check it out till after work, which will be early in the A.M. When I was referring to "The light shutting off" I was talking about the check engine light. It would come on and start blinking, then when I shifted it into a higher gear to get the rpm's back to normal (2000ish) the check engine light would shut off within an eighth mile.... This showing some of the same symptoms of what my c5 was doing when my cat's imploded (running alright at low rpm's, then like junk at high rpm's.) I'm just crossing my fingers I didn't injure my motor...

LPDesRoche

Not sure what supercharger system your CTS-V has but I will guess that its the Magnacharger setup. If so I would verify that the magnavolt fuel pump booster is working properly. They are known to fail due to the heat under the hood. I have this setup on my CTS-V and have read a few horror stories about the magnavolt. Worth looking into.

nickk4469

You are correct, it has a maggie set Up. I'm curious to why these are so popular on the v's? I have an A&A set up that I will be installing on my vert this winter. The guy I purchased the car off of said he has had to replace the magnavolt set up a few times... How would I go about checking the volts on magnavolt? Also I have a kenne bell boost a pump just laying around at the house. Would that be a chore to install, and woul I have to get it retuned?

LPDesRoche

They are popular because they are perfect for a heavy car. Make lots of TQ down low where you need it. Makes the V a blast to drive. As for checking it you will need a mighty vac that has the pressure option on it and pressurize the boost port and then check to see if the output voltage goes up like its supposed to. Or hook up a fuel pressure gauge and see if there is a rise in FP when you get into boost. But I would rather test it without having to run the car since you risk running lean.

nickk4469

Ok, sounds simple enough. It looks like I will need the mightyvac MV8510. Do auto parts store typically have this in stock?

nickk4469

I linked the code reader and it showed that no codes had been set.... I guess my next step will be to check the "boost a pump." Anyone else have some idea's, I'm going to check the battery as also was suggested. I wish I had a good performance shop in the area....

nickk4469

Also, apparently I have an MSD BAP. It doesn't appear to be the newest generation out.

flash of red

May want to check or replace your plugs. I had an issue once when my car would start to misfire on hard exceleration and higher boost. My plugs were blowing out during those conditions. Fresh plugs fixed the issue.

nickk4469

Ok, I'll add that to list of things to try.

Thanks,
Nick

HP_Addict

blinking light is usually a misfire. start with the plugs and wires.

nickk4469

I like that idea being it is pretty much easiest thing start with. I'm just scared to do that then have it start missing again, I really don't want to destroy my motor.... Should I do a compression check while I'm at it? Also what kind of wires should I pick up? I'll just stick with whatever spark plugs are in it now.