Chrisrokc

If I can this sorted out, I will have some smooth sailing from here on out.

Background:

My balancer seal went out and caused an oil leak. The bad seal also wore a groove in the OEM balancer. Anyways, had to replace the balancer. Bought a Powerbond balancer that is the stock size.


Problem:

I need to make the same notch in the Powerbond Balancer that is in the OEM balancer. How do I go about doing this? Use the A&A Pinning tool AFTER I install the balancer on the crank? Use the A&A Pinning tool BEFORE I install the balancer on the crank? Take it to a machine shop? Any tips would be appreciated. I am sure someone here has come across this same problem before.

Milan

I've always wanted to know this too.....unless people are just repinning when they get the new balancer?

Its Bruce

I installed my IW balancer with the keyway 180° away from previous drill in crank ("D"). Then I installed a small rod that would fit into the "D" on the crank and installed the pinning kit over it, doing my best to keep the small rod parallel with the crank centerline. Tighten down the pinning kit bolt, pull the rod and go to town. It came out decent enough for me.

BLOWNBLUEZ06

I was going to answer your other thread, but instead I'll just do it here.

The problem is that the pinning kits will try to skew the drill bit sideways. My fix is to use 2 crank pinning fixtures stacked on top of each other to hold the bit extra straight and true and be careful on the start. to help the start, you can get a die grinder with a 1/4" carbide burr and carefully radius the leading edge of the balancer across from your 1/2 hole in the crank to help the drill bit stay on course.

speedyhawk101

I would install it on an old crank or a piece of bar stock and drill it. Otherwise you're never gonna get this new balancer to drilled properly. The bit will want to deflect and move around.......

Machine shop should be able to make it happen easy enough.

This is what makes sense to me.

Install the pulley on your crank.

Matchmark the New pulley on your crank. Use a transfer punch if you can....

Remove the balancer

Install on a piece of bar stock/or an extra crank if you have one.

Drill out using the pinning tool/exactly on the matchmark

BLOWNBLUEZ06

I disagree. If you've ever pinned an Innovators West balancer, you'll know that they stand off the crank by 3/4" and know that it can be done properly without going through a sacrificial crank or a piece of bar stock.

No need to go through those other measures with the "matchmark" either. I've done this many times without anywhere near the trouble you're advising him to go through.

speedyhawk101

Not advising....Advising would imply that I'm an expert......I am not. I guess I was just throwing out a suggestion that seemed to fit in my little mental picture of the situation.

Didn't know they stand off that much....

If it were flush that's the way I'd do it though. I wouldn't sacrifice a crank.......that was just an example being thrown around....I would mount the balancer on some mild steel bar stock, this way you could have it flush and use the pinning tool and get a nice clean cut. Otherwise you're left free handing the cut. That's not my cup of joe.

BLOWNBLUEZ06

His balancer doesn't stand off that much, but he Innovators does and its the hardest one to keep a drill bit square without the anything on the other side for that much of the drilling session. My only point was that if you can achieve it under those circumstances, this will be cake in comparison. If it got drilled with an offset of .025" or something, the pin may not fit as tight, but the bolt will hold the pin in place. Should the balancer slip any, it would eventually take up that slack and the pin would be doing its job.

02402ramair

Just drill another hole in the crank if you feel uncertain about drilling the current one. I have double keyed several cranks. No big deal. I would try to use the existing hole first. Just take your time and use a sharp bit. It may try to catch and break the bit so go slow. Once you make it to the crank it's smooth sailing. Use plenty of WD and drill slow.

stevieturbo

It's easy, Ive done it a few times. Just install it on the crank align the drill guide and drill the new hole.
Unless the guide itself is pretty crap, the bit will stay straight. Just dont try and force it, and use a good quality drill bit. Cobalt drills are ideal ( and necessary if it's a steel crank )

if you're really concerned about the bit not going straight, up the size slightly and have a new dowel pin made.

my original's were 1/4, approx 6.35mm

The last time I used it I was around 6.5mm drill bit and had new pins made to suit. Mine was dual pinned at 180deg. The holes are perfectly round and the pins a nice tight fit. It really isnt difficult.

Chrisrokc

So this is what I did...

A friend of mine was a machinist for 20+ years (I have some old friends), so I had him look at it. He thought it could be drilled in the fashion mentioned by Bret, but he thought he could do it with some of the equipment at a friends shop. Handed it off to him, came back with the notch.


I will post pictures later. They used a milling bit to make the notch.